just a few (lots) of questions...

[GRN_VAGN]

No, just put a decent battery if it dont already, and if your going all out on the stereo, then i recommend a higher amp alternator to cope with it all.

[Jarred]

dude, mk 1's are 12V's.....

(it's not a 62 beetle for petes sake)

[GRN_VAGN]

Having a bad morning Jarred ?

[Jarred]

I'm sick, so sorry if that sounded harsh! (

[mikinoz]

Spending money on sound, in a MK1, should come second to reliability!

[eltonking]

No, just put a decent battery if it dont already, and if your going all out on the stereo, then i recommend a higher amp alternator to cope with it all.

thank you.

dude, mk 1's are 12V's.....

(it's not a 62 beetle for petes sake)

no need to be mean

ha kidding thanks guys i wasn't sure, hence why i asked!

[eltonking]

I've bought and sold many a Mk1 over the last few years and not paid over $1000 for any of them. The last one was a 78 GLS without a drop of rust, which is now stowed away at our family farm. They're out there - there are a lot in Tassie; usually one in the Saturday paper every second weekend - literally. It's definitely the place to look. If you're willing to take a 4dr over a 2dr, then you'll have plenty of options if you look carefully and ask around.

The sky's the limit with where you want to go. You can easily sink 6 figures into building one if you want to get serious, or a nice project can be put together for a few grand, which anyone can save up with some dedication.

Start with the bushes, ball joints, complete tie rods, engine mounts and brake hoses to build yourself a safe car before you do anything else. There's plenty of 'rockets' around with rotten underpinnings and then some coilovers bolted on - this isn't the route to take as you'll only hairline crack the shell and accelerate its death - and your own.

The first thing to do to any Mk1 shell from a general preservation perspective (whether restoring or not) is bare metal inside the strut towers, inspect and reseal them... blow compressed air through the frame rails and down into the integral subframe (where the control arms mount) to 'rinse' out the debris, then fill it with fish oil... Clean out the drainage holes in the doors and tailgate and reseal inside the bottom of the door shells... Pull up the carpet, clean, and treat the floors... Check all the rubber grommets on the firewall for proper sealing... Replace the fuel filler neck and associated hoses (and remove and clean the tank if a magnet dipped in the peep hole reveals traces of rust)...

These are all jobs that can be done gradually over a few weekends and will add years to the life of the car - it also guarantees the longevity of any respray work you may do or get done down the track, as there is actually some structure for adhesion.

Looking here for a classic car is a good start, though. You'll pay a lot less than a good Datsun 1600 or Mk1 Escort goes for, and you can have just as much fun

Last tip is to be careful who you listen to.

i will happily settle for a 4 door. (let me know if you have any you wish to part with)

in regards to both your 3rd and 4th paragraph, does any of that require welding skill? i'm contemplating purchasing an arc welder (if that is ample for the welds to be undertaken - but still need to learn how to weld!), but also have an engineer/steel mason in my dad's industrial estate who could possibly help me out...

thanks again for all your advice

[Valver.]

i will happily settle for a 4 door. (let me know if you have any you wish to part with)

in regards to both your 3rd and 4th paragraph, does any of that require welding skill? i'm contemplating purchasing an arc welder (if that is ample for the welds to be undertaken - but still need to learn how to weld!), but also have an engineer/steel mason in my dad's industrial estate who could possibly help me out...

thanks again for all your advice

You can get away with most things without having to weld. All the jobs I mentioned don't require welding --> unless there's structural rust, but this really isn't all that common in Aus Mk1s.

Try to find a GLS, rather than an LS, as the former is German built and the quality difference is extreme. GLSs also have enamel paint, which is a huge bonus, and way more underbody and seam sealing

[eltonking]

You can get away with most things without having to weld. All the jobs I mentioned don't require welding --> unless there's structural rust, but this really isn't all that common in Aus Mk1s.

Try to find a GLS, rather than an LS, as the former is German built and the quality difference is extreme. GLSs also have enamel paint, which is a huge bonus, and way more underbody and seam sealing

cheers thanks a heap mate