ignition swap problems

**mollins** · 11-05-2006, 08:34 PM

hi guys

just attempted to swap my 1.8 8v from points to electronic ignition and now i get no spark at all...

i used a second hand dizzy and controller of unknown origin

i mounted the controller to the firewall and plugged the plastic plug into the side of the dizzy

i wired the extra wires:

green- negative on coil
black- positive on coil
brown- earth

this gave me no spark.. not even between coil HT lead and block when turning over

so i looked in my manual and it said that between pins 2 and 4 on the controller i should have 12V ... but i had 6ish.. i assume this is cos i have a 6v coil (resistor sort)

so i connected the black before the resistor to give me 12v

but still no spark

the manual also said: with the plug disconected from the dizzy i i should get ~2V temporarily across the coil when the ignition is switched on.. but i get a constant 6?

any ideas??

PS:aydan or brackie.. any attempts at jokes about the supremacy of diesels will not be laughed at

**Golf Loon** · 11-05-2006, 10:48 PM

Are the green and black round the right way?

Do you have an electronic type coil? Uprated ones are $50ish at Supercheep and red!

What does the controller say on it?

**mollins** · 11-05-2006, 11:14 PM

yeah ive got a snazzy HT bosch gt40 or something (reddy orange)

i think the green and black are round the right way.. the voltage across the 2-4 pins is as it should be according to my manual.. i suppose i can try swapping them..

controller is fairchild has vw audi logos on it

white number printed on it says 8407 33
theres a black moulded number too but i wont be able to see that till tomorrow

**roccodingo** · 12-05-2006, 12:03 AM

Originally Posted by mollins

the manual also said: with the plug disconected from the dizzy i i should get ~2V temporarily across the coil when the ignition is switched on.. but i get a constant 6?

Bentley also say's "voltmeter should show a minimum of 2 volts for 1 to 2 seconds, then drop to Zero. If it doesnt, turn ign off and replace control unit and "special"coil before repeating test"

Sounds like the controller to me, but i would check the continuity of the wires in the circuit first. Have you checked the output of the hall sensor ??,

.

**mollins** · 12-05-2006, 12:10 AM

nah havent checked sensor... when the controller wasnt working i assumed that was what was causing my probs ... so my testing ended there... any ideas where i can pick up a new controller... a genuine one would be nice but i heard something about using camira or volvo 144 ones (anything to save me cash)?

**82cab** · 12-05-2006, 12:27 AM

why don't you try running a wire straight from the battery to the positive on the coil to see if it's powering it up and just spin the dizzy by hand outside of the motor to see if you get spark.

**roccodingo** · 12-05-2006, 12:28 AM

Saw a list of vehicles somewhere that uses the same module, and it was long !!!

think the camira does use the same one, and likely the volvo, saab, audi,

there about 58 US$ for a new one..
Make sure you have the heat sink also..

**mollins** · 12-05-2006, 11:55 AM

i put old points dizzy back in this morning after i couldnt get spark and its running again

however i was down at supercheap and realised the 12V non resistor coils said they were specifically for electronic ignition.... where as ive got one with a ballast resitor, which i think actually means the coil runs at ~6V ?

does anyone know if my coil is compatible with the electronic ignition?
and is there a way to test the hall sensor in the distributor?

**Golf Loon** · 12-05-2006, 07:16 PM

You shouldn`t need a ballast resistor with electronic gnition.
As 82cab says spin the dissy hilst not attached to the motor and see if you get spark.

**roccodingo** · 12-05-2006, 11:24 PM

Originally Posted by mollins

i put old points dizzy back in this morning after i couldnt get spark and its running again

however i was down at supercheap and realised the 12V non resistor coils said they were specifically for electronic ignition.... where as ive got one with a ballast resitor, which i think actually means the coil runs at ~6V ? does anyone know if my coil is compatible with the electronic ignition?

you must use a coil suitable for the electronic ign circuit, IE NO ballast resistor and make sure the power cable from the fuse / relay plate is of suitable size, ( least 18 Gauge, ballast wire version is only 16 Gauge) I have spare genuine VW electronic coils here, some of the lads over that way are likely to have them as well :roll:

and is there a way to test the hall sensor in the distributor?

tools :- voltmeter or test lamp.
Procedure:- ( as from bentley)

earth the HT lead from the coil to the engine.

remove connector from Ign control module, connect voltmeter ( lamp) to terminals on the plug +ve test lead to terminal 6, -ve test lead to terminal 3.

Turn on Ign, watch voltmeter as you rotate the crank by hand ( spanner) in clockwise direction ( normal running dirn')
voltage should fluctuate between 2 volts and zero.

No voltage = dead hall sender.

Make sure HT lead from coil is disconnected from distributor cap, OTHERWISE engine could start whilst manually turning over engine !!!

these ignitions work amazingly well when installed, I hav not replaced anything on my rocco cept the plugs and 1 rotor in 22 years.. definately worth the effort to get this to work.

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