Help - Mk1 suckin air!

[pi22a]

Gday all,,

Havin some weird carby / fuel problems, just about to rip out the old peirburg 2e2 (or whatever) as its running really badly. Prob is I was going to do it this weekend and now it wont run for more than a few 100 meters at a stretch - gotta get to work n back on friday.
Drives ok from cold, then starts to cough n splutter (have good fule in too) and dies, will then run normally after 5min or so. Watching it happen it appears bubbles are in the fuel filter (brand new and round the right way) and they are coming from the fuel tank (full tank of gas too). I suspected that the fuel return from the crap carby was suckin air and to my suprise it stopped as soon as I blocked the return (carby to fuel tank return),,, now is the question,
Will driving the car like this (no fuel return) do any damage? Or should I just get out the pushbike for last day at work for week (80km return ride) and put in Jamies old webber on weekend?

Hope to hear from someone soon,
Cheers
Daaaave

[Jmac]

If you are gonna change it no worries if she runs ok. Only thing is it will test how good your needle valve is. How does it run when its blocked? coz ive never heard of that. Return is your overflow mate controlled by the needle valve and seat. If it is a 2e2 yes they are crap mate. Good move if you change it. Webber simple and has better throat. By the way where do you live. There is a reason i ask in relation to the 2e2. Plays up in cold weather if the pre heat flap isnt working on the intake duct.Back home we used to by pass it and that was a great temp fix. Other one was to screw a self tapper in the duct to hold the flap half way for a happy medium.

[pi22a]

In process of changing it over to the webber, managed to undo 3 of the 6 allen key bolts holdin it in (6mm), but I just broke my key on number 4 (end stuck inside too!),, bugger! Otherwise the transfer is going fine,,

Any tips on those stubborn 6mm bolts? Have to get to the insode ones still, and somehow get the bit I broke out of the head of bolt 2nd from passenger side end... sigh

Dont you just love working on old cars?

Daaave

[Jmac]

Long allen key socket mate and shock them with the hammer first. Welcome to DUbland mate!!!!! At worst, find yourself a 12mm multihex socket and knock it over the top of the bolt. This usually does the trick with the stubborn ones . that way you dont need to worry about the bit stick in the hole
Good luck

[Tulyar]

Those are classic choke pull down unit problems - from memory werent you also having running on problems with that carb too?

I think I suggested previously the waxstat was shot, sounds as if the pull down unit is weak also. You probably have a strong smell and black smoke coming out of the exhaust too whilst the engine is running roughly - clearly indicating that the engine is overchoking until the auto choke starts cutting in which take over after a few minutes.

The 2E2's are difficult carbs - with these parts replaced and properly set up your 2E2 could still be an effective unit.

You can adjust the pull down unit which may help a little; but not if you are going to throw the unit away!

[gldgti]

do you need your manifold? if you have a spare, there is a way to get it off. use a sturdy flat screwdriver and hammer, and place the blade of the screwdriver between the bolt head and the manifold, on the end of the washer. if you hammer it, you should be able to bust the washer out from under the bolt head and release the pressure on the bolt, and just undo it - but there is a good chance you will crack the manifold if you do this. if you have spare manifolds, you can also use an 8mm drill and bore down through the bolt shaft from the top. just be careful not to open a hole into the intake port or you will be cleaning swarf out of there . the standard golf carbie manifold is an easily replacable part, people throw them in the rubbish...

also, you may have fuel pump issues if blocking the return is fixing your problem. an option is to plumb the return line back into the supply line still in the engine bay, just to see whats going on. if you have acess to a fuel pressure meter, you should get between 3 and 6psi fuel pressure at the carbie with normal fuel plumbing.

[Tulyar]

Just to clarify - my suggestions were relating to the poor running symptoms not the fuel bubbles - I believe the two are unrelated.

[golfnutracing]

The drive shaft bolts are a torx bit i think, 8 point bit, they smash into a 6mm allen key perfectly. It is well worth the $8 or so on a allen key socket.

I so miss the golf, really regretting the sale. The webber is fantastic, they dont usually have a return line, my old one we put a return line in because the std mechanical fuel pump tended to over fuel it, just crimp the return line a little to reduce the flow.

Schultz Mechanical in willetton have a dyno and a heap of spare webber bits, it is well worth getting it tuned to the car and try and get a choke for it! Tell them i sent you and they should do a good deal.

If you are having any dramas give me a bell
-Jamie

[pi22a]

Wow, huge response,,

Just got back from work, heading out to get new allen key set in a sec, will try the 12mm hex on it if cant get it moving,,

Cheers for the tip Tulya, never had any smoke coming out the back though,, but its nearly out anyway so not to worry,,

Thanks for the offer Jamie, will give ya a bell when I get it up n running (hows the rally car going?)

Will keep at it, gently, gently and keep you posted,,, fun, fun, fun

daave

[Jmac]

just in response to the 2e2 carb issues the wax stat faulty will cause a fast idle and yeah the pulldown unit if loads of black smoke when cold. Easy test is the bottom vac on the pulldown unit, suck on it and the choke unit should move and hold if not its shot mate!! but yeah unrelated but good to hear from someone who knows nostalia again !!!!!!!!!!!! 2e2 junk hey!!!