Erik & Rupert: The Tale Of Two MK1s

[HuH]

Peter, that's excellent info but it throws a spanner in the works!

I will check the code on the 6Y/GY tomorrow morning. Will it have 91mm flanges? If so that's even worse as I had the driveshafts for that gearbox reco'd with new boots and all that. But they'll be no good on the ACD box if I use it, right?

What are the main pros and cons of each gearbox? I assume the ACD is significantly better? It's being cleaned up and put back together with new carrier bearings this week, but I was hoping to put the 16V into the yellow car tomorrow, which I can't do now if I should be using that box and not the 6Y/GY or whatever it is.

I'll get a picture of the mount, but from memory they were identical to each other.

[HuH]

Here are the pictures you wanted of the gearbox mount. Are these helpful at all? I also took a picture of the markings on the bottom, and it looks unmistakably like a '6Y' to me.

I cannot find any mention of a 6Y 020 'box on the internet. Moving the selector into gear by hand seems to give six distinct positions, leading me to believe that it is a five-speed gearbox.







Also you were spot on about the Audi SD block. That means it's from a diesel motor?

[Peter Jones]

That's a five speed alright. The 6Y code is confusing I'll see what I can dig up.

The ACD would be a great box for the street, close ratio with a tall cruising diff.

The SD motor is still a petrol motor. It's the 1800 block with 2 litre 82.5mm pistons. A great fit into MK1s. You might find it's got an adaptor plate between the inlet manifold and head.

[HuH]

Update time. Lots of action over the weekend. Couldn't have done it without a little help from my friends.



Picked up just the one gearbox from Craft on Friday. They're still putting together the other one which didn't have the LSD in it. It's getting new carrier bearings and a cleanup. Anyway, we put the rebuilt box on the motor to get it ready to go.



The engine mount you see in the photo above needed to be replaced. I had a new on in the spares I picked up, but the old one had to be pulled out so it could be pressed. Getting to it meant removing everything in this photo.



On Saturday a mate came around to tackle the rust. Here's what the floor was looking like after a bit of scraping around.



The firewall sections weren't too bad. Much less than the previous work on the driver's side.



Here's one section cut out looking through from the front passenger wheel arch.



The man at work.



Welding the new steel in place.



The sections for the firewall cut out.



And new steel welded in.



Progress shot of the new floor piece.



And how it ended up looking



Single coat of etch primer on these spots.



We've left it masked up like this overnight so we can do another coat if necessary and put some black paint over that.



We also masked up and painted the radiator support in the engine bay as it had a bit of surface rust developing.



These arrived as well. New tie rods and rack ends. Boots are in the mail.



Does anyone know whether the little spade terminal in this shot is for oil pressure or oil temperature?

Other work we did which isn't shown was mostly on the engine itself. All the coolant hoses were replaced to get rid of the botched up stuff that was on there before. No more loose hoses and ugly plugs for things which are now unused. Everything is so much neater. The wiring will be next but there's no point doing that until we get the motor in the bay.

I've got three more nights to work on this before I go to Japan. I want the motor in, wiring done, heater and dash loom transferred, and the front end put back together so all four wheels are on the ground. I think that's achievable!

---------- Post added at 10:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:24 AM ----------

That's a five speed alright. The 6Y code is confusing I'll see what I can dig up.

The ACD would be a great box for the street, close ratio with a tall cruising diff.

The SD motor is still a petrol motor. It's the 1800 block with 2 litre 82.5mm pistons. A great fit into MK1s. You might find it's got an adaptor plate between the inlet manifold and head.

Would really appreciate anything you can dig up on the 6Y code. I've exhausted my Googling skills!

If I happen to get the ACD box back before the motor goes in, I may use that, but I'm happy with the 6Y just knowing that it is a five-speed. Who knows what its ratios are like.

I'm really keen to put this 1.9 8V into the green car now and drive it. Sounds like it will be an interesting thing to steer as well.

[Peter Jones]

That's a temp sender, probably suit a VDO gauge.

[Vinda76]

The one on the front (horizontal) is for temp and the one at the back (white base) is for pressure (0.3 bar?). As Pete said the temp one is for a VDO, at least that is what mine is connected to.

[HuH]

Awesome! Thanks a lot for that. I definitely want to add an oil temp gauge so that makes it easier.

[GRN_VAGN]

If you do want to go out the top, I usually find all thats necessary is to remove the alternator and the starter and the gearbox shift linkage lever and ofcourse the bonnet (thats easy).

I put a chain between the drivers side engine lifting point and the lug in the middle of the top of the gearbox and sling the whole unit by the engine crane.

once its all undone, you completely remove the gearbox mount from the gearbox and then push the gearbox down and back slightly, so that the front end of the engine goes up, then you just keep raising the whole assembly and manouvre the gearbox away from the brake master cylinder if you've still got all that in there once your high enough.

I know a lot of people seem to like going out the bottom but I only did that once 'cos I had no end of trouble. Nowdays I can put the assembly in or out of the car by myself in no time at all.

Just takes a little bit of creative thinking.

Thats it, i do all my engines from the top. and with the bonnet off you get easy access to everything.
I did one from the bottom and it took 2 hours longer, i had no idea which way to do it

And besides, its fun driving round the block with the hood off after you got the sucker running HAHA

[dubstar]

Done some research on the 6Y gearbox....VW sold a bunch of 020's to Austin back in the day. They had their own codes and the 6Y was one of them. It is a 5 speed from a maestro.

This thread contained most info
http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=118956

[Peter Jones]

I found the Austin link too,

with a bit more digging the box is from an Austin Maestro 1300HLE

ratios are 3.45, 1.94, 1.29, 0.91, 0.71 reverse 3.17, FDR 4.25

That's arare box in Australia , not many here with that diff ratio.

---------- Post added at 07:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:23 AM ----------

The 4.25 diff will give you insane acceleration but you'll be constantly changing gears and the car will be reving pretty fast at highway speeds.


This diff ratio is popular for rally and track racing for acceleration out of corners.

You've really hit the jackpot with the 2 boxes you've found.