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Thread: Erik & Rupert: The Tale Of Two MK1s

  1. #31
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    Yeah it is/was. It's all still in there and has to be transferred.

  2. #32
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    Would you take a few pics of all the tunnels and what not that was used to make it work mate? As mine had the conversion done, but all the piping etc for the heater was different for mk1/2. It would mean a lot
    - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
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  3. #33
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    I will do my best, mate! I'm not 100% sure about what I have in there exactly. Maybe PM me and tell me precisely what you want shots of. I'll use a real camera and not this iPhone business.

  4. #34
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    gear box has to be fully split to change diffs.

    you're better off using the gearbox from the 16V and keeping it with the 16V.


    i like volkswagens
    My blog: http://garagefiftythree.blogspot.com.au/

  5. #35
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    Yeah I'm going to get a shop to look at them. I don't think the gearbox on the 16V is actually a 16V box. And according to the previous owner it's pretty flogged. Leaks oil like it's had a bullet put through it.

    Got the motor out of the green car last night. It was a tough slog. Working after hours is starting to take its toll a bit. My mate Daniel and I have tallied up some seriously late nights so far. We didn't down tools yesterday until 1:30am, mostly because we couldn't call it a night with the motor still dangling in the air. I'm not working this weekend for the first time in almost two years, so I can't wait to get into it with some daylight behind me!



    It took a good hour or so to get the motor ready to drop. We had to remove driveshafts, exhaust downpipe, some wiring, engine mounts and other odds and ends.



    Got the crane ready to go.



    I like using these straps. The length gets the motor on the ground way before the crane arm hits the radiator support. They're also good for maneuvering the motor while it's suspended.



    We used the factory lifting point where the alternator bracket mounts, and made another one on the gearbox mount to get the best balance.



    After working our way around the drivers side driveshaft and eventually pulling the LCA out to get it out of the way, we had the motor on the ground.



    It was way too late at this stage to do anything else, so it's sitting on the garage floor like this. Tonight I'll jack the car up and pull the motor out from under it.

    After that I need to take the gearboxes off and do a bunch of other stuff that I've forgotten right now. Need to find a coffee.

    I spotted on the back of the 16V block a big '2.0', so it's not the original 16V block. Is there a way I can find out what it is? What's most likely? I understand that the head is called a KR head, and the block is either an ABF or a 9A. How do I tell which one and what are they exactly?

    Trying my best to learn all the VW intricacies, but it's a little overwhelming. Haha.

  6. #36
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    Call Brian and explain what car you own and he will probably be able to tell you what is going on.

    Most likely as you say a 2.0 block with KR head based on it being K-jet. I reckon you have a 1.8 8v k-jet set up on a 2.0 bottom end and KR head - but I am not an expert haha

  7. #37
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    On the front of the engine, usually stamped on a flat piece between cylinders 3&4? Is the engine code. Also, on the bottom of the gearbox a code will be stamped near the bottom of the bell housing, this will give you gearbox code. Post them up and we will tell you what is what.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikinoz View Post
    Call Brian and explain what car you own and he will probably be able to tell you what is going on.

    Most likely as you say a 2.0 block with KR head based on it being K-jet. I reckon you have a 1.8 8v k-jet set up on a 2.0 bottom end and KR head - but I am not an expert haha
    Yeah, I'll call Brian soon and get the scoop. I haven't done it yet because I'd prefer to drive it to him when it's in the yellow car and talk to him about it in person. I'm sure he'll be able to teach me a thing or seven.

    Quote Originally Posted by dubstar View Post
    On the front of the engine, usually stamped on a flat piece between cylinders 3&4? Is the engine code. Also, on the bottom of the gearbox a code will be stamped near the bottom of the bell housing, this will give you gearbox code. Post them up and we will tell you what is what.
    The engine is stamped 3A 021 xxx, so this is an Audi block I believe? I found a bit of info comparing the 3A and ABA blocks and they both seem to be popular choices.

    The rebuilt gearbox on the 8V is stamped with:

    1
    6Y 13124

    The old gearbox on the 16V (with the LSD) is stamped with:

    3
    ACD19125

    Can you decipher anything from those?

    I made a bit more progress last night on Project Ümlaut.



    Got the 16V out and about. Resting it an old tyre was actually inconvenient as I had get the crane around it again and lift it up to be able to get the gearbox off.



    A welcome sight. We're at a pretty big milestone for the build now with both motors out.



    Both 'boxes are off and currently in the back of my car. I'm taking them to Craft Differentials in Granville today to have the LSD in the old box (top) checked out to see if it's worth swapping.



    Plenty of work to do on the birds nest of wiring. It has the potential to be so much neater.



    I had a closer look at this last night and it says 1.9 on the back of the block which is confusing. I assumed it would be a 1.6.

    A mate is coming over tonight to inspect the rust repair. Hopefully I can wrangle him into helping out.

  9. #39
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    So Craft just called me and apparently the diff in the green car was not an LSD at all.

    I'm really confused by this. I was told that it was, so to test I jacked the car up, turned one front wheel and the other wheel turned in the same direction. I thought that was sweet and confirmed that it was an LSD. Apparently not. Is it possible for that to happen with an open diff?

    The same test was done on the yellow car and the opposite wheel turned backwards, which is what I thought open diffs were supposed to do.

    Leaves me a bit disappointed. I'll have to just run with the rebuilt box as it is. Quite a mystery though, and I don't understand it.

    In other news the rust work is being done tomorrow morning, plus I've bought new tie rods, new rack ends, new rack boots, new nolathane rear engine mount and new headlining in the last week. The CV boots are being done right now and we're pretty much set to put it back together in the yellow car.

  10. #40
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    The ACD is a close ratio 5 speed from a MK2, it should have a 3.67 diff ratio and 100mm output flanges.

    The 6Y might actually be a GY 4 speed I suspect. Show me a pic of the gear box mount on the end of the box and I can tell you if it's a 4 speed.

    As to your diffs the 4 speeds have no preload on the diff and the flanges will turn in different directions.

    the 5 speeds have preload and will turn in the same direction even though they're an open diff.

    ---------- Post added at 05:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:47 PM ----------

    Oh and your 1.9 is possibly a 1900 SD motor from an Audi.
    79 MK1 Golf Wreck to Race / 79 MK1 Golf The Red Thread / 76 MK1 Golf Kamei Race Car
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