Engine making tapping noise...

[dub be good to me]

I had a whining noise once, which was an over tightened cam belt. sounded a bit like a supercharger actually.

Possibly the problem, if it doesn't make any metallic kinda of noises. [if that makes sense]

That's it exactly. I almost typed that it sounded like a supercharger!

I'll loosen it off when I get a chance (have to take the damn belt guard off ). Sooner rather than later, as I've heard it can be damaging..

Thanks for the ebay link roccodingo, here is another one in Germany I found (for readers of this post) I think they are the same.. I'll see how cheap the UK guy is on postage
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=150314969327
Search: Hydrostößel or Ventilstößel in Germany ebay

Thank loon, that's the noise. They seem to be loudest upon acceleration, or when the motor is working hard. When the revs are steady they tend to go quiet. The noise is a consistent tapping, sounds mechanical.

Cheers guys

[GOLFBALLS]

If its a whining sound it might even be the alternator. It happened on my old k-jet.
My curent RV 8v has a horribly loud tapping noise though, like loon describes, definately lifters i reckon. Sounds like a little gremlin in there bangin with a little hammer, but not really a whining noise??

[dub be good to me]

If its a whining sound it might even be the alternator. It happened on my old k-jet.
My curent RV 8v has a horribly loud tapping noise though, like loon describes, definately lifters i reckon. Sounds like a little gremlin in there bangin with a little hammer, but not really a whining noise??

Nah, two noises happening here...
The tapping was the first, pretty confident its the lifters. I've got some lifters on the way from the UK as we speak ($99 delivered from an ebay seller - thanks for the tip rocco).
The second noise started after I tried to clean the lifters, reckon I over tightened something.

That's a good one for that thread
'You know you drive a Mk1 when...' you try to fix one noise and end up with two!

(I'll post success of tappet replacement)

Happy Easter all..

[dub be good to me]

Ok, replaced the tappets with new ones and set the correct tension on the cam belt.
Firstly, adjusting the cam belt fixed the whining, supercharger like noise.
Unfortunately, new tappets lessened the noise coming from the engine bay, but didn't get rid of it.
The tapping noise is upon acceleration and sounds light like its from the top etc.. could it be a blockage in an engine oil galley?

I'm thinking of flushing the engine to de-gunk it and replacing the oil.
I have been running 20W-50, is this too thick? (engine is mk2 gti 1.8L kjet)

Do you think this will help?
What oil should I be using?

[roccodingo]

20W - 50 should be fine, its what i run.

After i changed the lifters in my daily driver engine, there was still a bit of noise. Lifters were a ton quiet tho.

Possibly piston slap as I know when this engine was bored oversize, the guy who sold it to me said there one piston was a few hundredths more clearance than the rest. so even after new lifters, new oil pump it still rattles a bit. Doesnt seem to bother it as it sees the redline every now and then...

[dub be good to me]

Ok, now I'm starting to get frustrated.

In my last post I had replaced the tappets and thought there was some improvement. This was just wishful listening, there is/was no difference.

Thinking maybe I had a blocked engine oil galley, I just flushed the engine, replacing the filter and oil (lower viscosity 10W).

There is still no difference.

I've run out of ideas

Help..

(P.S - according to previous owner noise is new development)

[h100vw]

Next step is an oil pressure check, although if you have no buzzers going of, that's probably ok.

Step 2 remove the sump, 10mm bolts, a wobbly socket and 1/4 inch socket set makes getting the ones by the gearbox much easier.

Remove the strainer off the oil pump. You probably find it full of debris, restricting flow.

Gavin

[roccodingo]

I would consider 10W a bit thin for the engine, did the PO use 10W ??

According to the Bentley manual 10W is for use from 0 degC to below that.

For your Melbourne climate i would be usingat least 30W monograde or preferably 20W40 or 20W50. thats from the book.

If your driving in temperatures from 20 C up its reccomended to use 40W monograde.

Dump the engine oil your have in it and replace it with either of the 20W multigrades above.


The higher the number, the heavier the oil, I just hope your not damaging any bearing journals on the crank using the thin stuff.

[dub be good to me]

Damn, the guy at Autobarn told me to go for a lower viscosity oil. Seeing it made no difference anyway I'll swap it for some 20W-50.

I tried to get the sump off to clean the screen, but as previous post says its not possible with the 1/2 socket set I have.

I just thought of something, this engine has a bracket for an oil cooler that was removed when I bought the engine. The bracket has a 'U' bend on it (where the cooler would have plugged it) to return the oil. Could this be stopping oil being pushed up to the top of the engine?

Going to get oil see you in 30mins

[h100vw]

Get the 1/4 socket set.

The tapping would go away with 10/40 until it warmed up and the oil got too thin.

It would be ok with the engine speed increased too.

I think it's a hardware problem not oil viscosity.

Gavin