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Thread: The Diesel Cabriolet Project

  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Maroubra NSW
    Posts
    299

    On the diesel, one is temp gauge and one is oil pressure.

    I can't really see from the photos, but i'd reckon the one hanging off the end of the radiator port would be the temp gauge, although it could be a thermofan switch. How about someone with a cabrio pipes up eh?
    Peugeot 306 XTDT 1.9 Turbo Intercooled Diesel

    1976 LS parts vehicle

    Used to have: Mk1 Swallowtail LS DIESEL!

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    66
    Thread Starter
    Those were photos of the petrol before i took it out.
    I still have the same problem. i'm completely done (i think) apart from whatever i should wire onto the clips in pic1
    The yellow one is the oil pressure switch which both engines had so that was easy. The two clips next to the large coolant hose is labeled as the thermostat connections in my diesel haynes, but i can't figure out which wires i should connect to it now. So many options.
    Only otherthing is the alternator. I would have liked to have kept the cabriolets alternator but it didnt fit in the engine bay anymore so the diesels alternator is back on. But wiring is different again.
    Blue to blue would make sense. And i'm guessing both reds on the harness connect to the big red wire. Could be wrong.
    Apart from this i have diesel in the tank and primed it through using the lift pump. Everythings ready to go i thought. But when i turn the key after giving the glow plugs some time to warm up i only get the starter and the engine doesnt start. I have 12v at the stop solinoid and 12v at the GP's so i don't know why it wont go. Should the GP's be warm to touch after being on for 30 seconds? Or does this sound like a fuel problem again?
    1991 Mk1 Diesel Cabriolet

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Gosford Central Coast NSW
    Posts
    4,386
    the diesel only has the temp sender on the end of the head on the t piece, and the radiator fan switch on the end of the rad.

    the glow plugs should get warm on the end after a good glow (30s).

    if not, you may have issues there.

    apart from that, fuel could still be a problem. if there's air in hte lines it'll be hard to start on the starter - but a bloody good long roll start will fix it. tow start etc.

    put your foot flat to the floor during cranking. also remember theres the cold start advance on the back of the injector pump, that needs a cable to be operated. you'll have a LOT of trouble starting it without that if its cold.

    good luck
    '07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
    '98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
    '99 A4 Quattro 1.8T

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    66
    Thread Starter
    It was the stop solinoid. Wasn't getting voltage at all A quick change of supply wire and i was off. I'm pretty happy. It drives like a small car should. Well feels like it after driving a festiva the few weeks

    What i did with the alternator seems fine. But i havent connected anything to the coolant temp thing yet.

    It has to go for a mod vehicle insection before rego but not an engineering report it looks like.

    Anyway last call for parts off the 4 door as it gets taken away tomorrow.
    Things i've put aside but not neccessarily sold:
    Fuel lines, tank, grill, front discs, front hubs (brand new bearings), dash, 2 good black bumpers.
    If you want any of this or for me to keep anything else aside PM tonight.
    1991 Mk1 Diesel Cabriolet

  5. #25
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Camden, Sydney
    Posts
    7,377
    Users Country Flag
    Nice work on getting it going. Must have felt good.
    I`d have the bumpers off the donor if they are in sydney please.
    Camden GTI Performance. VW / AUDI Specialists
    All Mechanical Work, Log book Servicing, New and used Parts and Imports
    19-20/6 Badgally Road, Campbelltown, 2560
    02 4627 3072 or 0423 051737 www.camdengti.com

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    66
    Thread Starter
    The cabby went through the pits yesterday. No worries at all with the swap from diesel to petrol, emmissions or having an older engine. The inspectors loved it so i don't think they were very picky (one wants to but it). Unfortunately it had a marjinal fail on one of the rear drums. But only just so a can of brake cleaner was enough to get it to pass a couple hours later. But i will put new drums and pads on soon as they seem to be the problem.

    So it's now registered and i drove home to Sydney last night. It went great and sat on 110 the whole way. Though it doesnt feel like it wants to go much harder like it did in the 5 door. Maybe it's the extra weight or the gear ratio's. But around town the 5 speed is great. You wouldn't know the ratios are out.

    It seems i may have a small alternator issue. I had no problems on the highway, but visiting a freind late last night the generator light began to flash at idle. And stalled once. But i haven't checked the v-belt yet. Really a small issue considering the smoothness of the conversion.

    Removed cabriolet parts are going up for sale shortly. As will a write-up on what i've done when i get round to it.
    1991 Mk1 Diesel Cabriolet

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Camden, Sydney
    Posts
    7,377
    Users Country Flag
    Nice work mate.
    I have a diesel alternator if you get stuck. And a few sets of rear drums.
    Come out with the old parts and do swopsies if you like.
    Camden GTI Performance. VW / AUDI Specialists
    All Mechanical Work, Log book Servicing, New and used Parts and Imports
    19-20/6 Badgally Road, Campbelltown, 2560
    02 4627 3072 or 0423 051737 www.camdengti.com

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Boronia VIC
    Posts
    4,394
    Users Country Flag
    One of my cars is the opposite of what you're doing It's a '79 GLD with a Cabrio K-JEt Motor. I'm fairly familiar with the wiring of both systems.

    Here in your first photo I've circled the Thermo Time switch. This is part of the K-Jet injection and controls the 5th injector. You don't need it but this connector shoud have 12v on it when the ignition is on - which may be of use to you.

    The second item circled is a bit of a mystery to me. It appears to be a standard VDO temp sender for a 50mm gauge. I'm guessing cabrios had a temp gauge in the console or that I'm missing some part of the k-jet system that this fed back into?



    Ok , Here's the money shot, the part circled in red is the temp sender to the instrument cluster, these are the wires you need to move to the end of the head. You may need to swap the sender too I think it's the same size.

    You've already figured out the oil switch, the other item is the warm up regulator for the k-jet. It's also not required but will also have 12v on it with ignition on.



    Hope that helps.

    Pete

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    66
    Thread Starter
    Your a champ Peter,
    I had only connected the wire circled as Temp Sender (consol) to the end of the head. It's giving me a reading on the dash guage but it's very low. I'll swap it over to the other two tomorrow.
    There was so little wiring with the thing. I got my 12v for the stop solinoid from the coil supply and just plugged my glow plug line into the fuse box. Swapping the fuel pump relay for the old glow plug relay was enough. It also means I have the in tank pump to prime the system whilst the glow plugs warm which seems to be working well.
    1991 Mk1 Diesel Cabriolet

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Boronia VIC
    Posts
    4,394
    Users Country Flag

    Dash temp wiring seems to vary a bit, I have 2 GLDs, they're only a couple of months different build dates. One has a two wire temp sender and the other one has a single wire temp sender, can't explain why.

    I'm not sure why the cabrio motor has 2 temp senders, both are unconnected in my car.

    In your case, just to be sure, I'd probably remove the senders from the old motor and attach them to the original wires (along with a grounding wire) and then just heat them up with a hair dryer to see which one makes the gauge move. Whichever one works, screw that into the motor somewhere wet.

    Be careful powering things off the ignition coil wiring, it may not be 12v. Some of the petrol golfs had resistive wiring to the coil. If your car had the electronic ignition you're OK. If it had the points ignition chances are it had the "use with resistor" type of coil and the resistive wiring. Check the old coil and see what voltage it has stamped on the base. More than two wires on the starter motor is a telltale too.

    Happy wiring!

    Pete

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