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Thread: A cream-filled mk1 build

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Braidwood, rural NSW
    Posts
    3,225
    Users Country Flag

    0.2v?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    216
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by sports racer View Post
    0.2v?
    my thoughts exactly! i was at work at the time n my mate had a look at it whilst i wasnt there n called n told me what reading he got lol

    dont know electrics, but that still sounded retarded
    CURRENT: '76 MK1 Golf 2dr (1.8 8V, twin webers.. soon to be 16v )
    PAST: MK5 GTI Pirelli + MK4 Golf 1.sick + MK3 VR6 (RIP)

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Rooty Hill, Sydney
    Posts
    647
    Users Country Flag
    Ohhhhhhh this is neat
    If the motor ends up being kaput, get a 16v from Camden gti, or get some of that vr6powerm8 ;P
    There's loads of these Cupras selling for near nothing.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    216
    Thread Starter
    So not really an update, and to cut a rather sh*tty story short...my mk1 keys were stolen the other night, so now Im not entirely sure what plan of action to take depending on possibilities of a few things. So here lie my questions;

    I have a spare key lying around, can the door barrels be re-done to match that key?

    Do I need to source a new ignition barrel with matching keys or is there another possible way out n to get it working etc?

    Any help would be much appreciated! been on vwheritage to find replacement ignition barrel and matching keys but theyre currently out of stock

    cheers guys!
    CURRENT: '76 MK1 Golf 2dr (1.8 8V, twin webers.. soon to be 16v )
    PAST: MK5 GTI Pirelli + MK4 Golf 1.sick + MK3 VR6 (RIP)

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Melbourne SE
    Posts
    347
    Users Country Flag
    Find someone wrecking a car and buy a complete set of locks, including ignition barrel, door handles, boot lock and key.
    77 Mk1 GLS 2 door - That sinking feeling
    76 Mk1 Swallowtail 2 door - Replace that BMW & 76 Sweetheart

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Braidwood, rural NSW
    Posts
    3,225
    Users Country Flag
    You can pull apart the barrel and take out the sliders that push against the key when it's inserted. Put in the new key and put back the sliders to suit the new key so they don't protrude past the barrel. You probably won't be able to get all of them to sit flush but do your best and file down any that stick out.

    This can be done for all the locks and means your old key won't work because the sliders now don't match the key. Handy if whoever stole your key wants to steal your car.

    Cheers

    Paul

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Melborune, VIC
    Posts
    318
    Users Country Flag
    I have a full lock set with keys from a 76. PM me, I'm back home on the weekend and can send them next week

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    216
    Thread Starter
    Thanks heaps guys!

    Paul, does that method also apply to the ignition barrel or is it a different setup with those?

    Cheers!

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Perth. WA
    Posts
    1,203
    buy a new ignition barrel and modify the door and boot locks as has already been mentioned, plenty of guides online how to do it just search.
    Lots of MK 1 Scirocco's...

    If it aint a MK 1 then it must be a donor car ??

    Cheers,
    Grant...

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    216
    Thread Starter

    Hey guys been a very long time since ive done any updates or anything...amazing how caught up you get starting your own business! 😫😫

    ANYWAY! Rest assured the car has been doing well and creating loads of love n smiles around sydneys north shore ran into a dilemma recently though...

    My fuse box started creating an immense amount of noise and sounded like buzzing, i located it to be on the far right relay? I think it is?



    As you can see it has 4 spaces for terminals, however the relay that was causing the ruckus had only 3?



    With this blue one, the buzzing stopped when indicators were being used but instantly back on as indicators are disengaged...

    I put a relay in that had the 4 terminals in the space, this stopped the buzzing, but the indicators ceased functioning. Oh and with either relay, i get no cluster instrument use (no fuel, revs or fuelgauge) :/

    Its also started running a lil rougher than usual, i searched a bit and found a few people talking about fuel relay? Not sure if this is it though. Any ideas guys??

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