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Thread: Which choice of MK1, 16V bad body or 1.6l good body?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    319

    Which choice of MK1, 16V bad body or 1.6l good body?

    Hey guys

    I have owned a few MK1 over the yrs, been a member here for bloody ages actually. That reminds me, is Wabit still around? Went on a few drives with him many yrs ago. I had a nice 2 door which was sold to a mate and subsequently blew up and ended up gods knows where, then had a couple for doors, one being a 1.8l with a few nice mods. Red with black bonnet. Stripped that and sent it to the crusher.
    Anyway I sold all my MK1's and you know what its like, once you have owned one you always want another one.

    You think it would be better to buy a MK1 with a upgraded engine but average body/interior or buy a nice stock MK1 and get someone to put a engine in to it? What would be less stress and less money?

    any advice welcome

    cheers lads

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Point Cook, Vic
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    Everyone will have a different take on it but for me mechanical work is nice and easy. Body work is an expensive pain in my arse
    So yeah.. id take a clean body over everything when it comes to mk1s. You dont need a lot of power to make such a light car go pretty hard.

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Thread Starter
    True that. But its hard and expensive to get a 16V, especially when you cant put one in yourself. I had a 1.8 8v and it went good but seeing as though I have done it I need the next step up.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    ACT
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    893
    It depends what you want to do, and just how bad the body is. If it's got rust, I'd take the clean 1.6. But if it's just a few knocks and dents then 16V all the way.

    Engine work>body work IMO

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Braidwood, rural NSW
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    Users Country Flag
    It depends on how long you've got and the budget. My MK1 has some good mechanicals (1.8l, 5 speed, aftermarket suspension etc) but it has a rusty body. I know bugger all about bodywork but there are heaps of people willing to help me and I'm eager to learn.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    syd
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    204
    Quote Originally Posted by ffoff View Post
    It depends what you want to do, and just how bad the body is. If it's got rust, I'd take the clean 1.6. But if it's just a few knocks and dents then 16V all the way.

    Engine work>body work IMO
    this.. ....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    132
    If you park undercover then a rusty/leaky/smelly car wont be a ever worsening reality.

    Imo body work is a real pain as it quickly becomes an complete respray on a mk1.

    But i do have a 16v and love it so

  8. #8
    The main thing I would do different with my next project is buy a better shell. Everything else is a bolt-on, but without a solid, rust-free chassis life is sooo much harder. Dents and a re-spray are not so much of a long-term problem, but given the choice - a clean body wins every time.

    It's been a while...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluerex View Post
    The main thing I would do different with my next project is buy a better shell. Everything else is a bolt-on, but without a solid, rust-free chassis life is sooo much harder. Dents and a re-spray are not so much of a long-term problem, but given the choice - a clean body wins every time.
    i agree, if i had the chance to do the project over again i would definately have resprayed and treated every bit of rust (i.e. sandblast)before commencing the build...if you have a good body you can swap/upgrade for as long as you want knowing that you have a solid body...
    78 2-door 1.8 KR 16v - twin dellorto's

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne, Mexico
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    I have had plenty of MK1s and I am not in a rush to buy one either!

    If it was the last car I was allowed to have ever. I would start with a 2 door shell in smart condition and fit a 16V in it. Using a KR/9A/ABF, which ever came available first. I would run injection and a rod change gearbox, 14 inch wheels with 270mm brakes and drums at the back.

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