Think you got it all Paul, apart from the part where you said the Bleed nipple is 15cm long
You have to do brakes properly. Stuff up any part and you risk them not working.
Here's what you do.
Top up the brake fluid reservoir and put the top back on the reservoir. You can't leave the top off for long as the brake fluid will absorb water vapor from the air and water in the brake system is a definite no-no, even a minuscule amount.
Take the front wheels off. Undo the brake nipple enough so it turns easily but not enough so brake fluid starts to leak out of it. If you don't know what a brake nipple looks like it's about 15cm long and 5mm wide pipe sticking out of the top of the caliper. Be careful undoing the brake nipple as they can be fragile, especially on old cars. Use a 10mm socket (or is it 8mm, it's been a long time since I did brakes on a MK1).
Undo and take out the 2 bolts holding the caliper on but don't try to take the caliper off. The brake pads need to be moved apart so the caliper can slide off the rotor and with a small lip on the rotor it's not easy getting the caliper off. The pads won't move apart because the brake fluid won't let them move without a lot of force. The easy way is to undo the brake nipple so it starts to leak a little bit of brake fluid. Now use a screwdriver to force the pads apart enough so they don't catch on the rotor and slide the caliper off making sure you keep it upright. Every time you force the pads apart you should get a slight spurt of brake fluid out of the brake nipple. Don't let the fluid get on the paintwork, it eats paint.
With the caliper off the rotor don't let the caliper tip over, the brake nipple has to be always on top. You don't want to get any air getting in and leaving it slightly open lets the fluid slowly drip out which stops air getting in. DON'T TAKE OFF THE HOSE BETWEEN THE BODY AND THE CALIPERS. If you do it's a mongrel of a job getting the air out of the brake system. Take the pads out and bolt the caliper back on the rotor. Now you need to force the pistons inside the caliper apart as far as you can otherwise the new pads won't fit. With the caliper back on the rotor it's easy to put a big screwdriver between rotor and brake piston and leverage the pistons back into the caliper. Again, every time you force the pistons apart you will get a spurt of brake fluid out of the brake nipple. When you have both brake pistons apart as far as they will go close the brake nipple (screw it back in all the way until tight) and top up the brake reservoir again. Don't get too carried away tightening the brake nipple, remember they are pretty fragile. Use a small spanner to tighten, not a socket set.
Take the rotor off by removing the large philips screw on the front face and get them machined (if they aren't worn too thin) or fit new ones.
To reassemble put the rotor on first then slide on the caliper with the new pads fitted. If the new brake pads are too close together to fit over the rotor undo the brake nipple, making sure you don't spill any fluid on the pads and use your big screwdriver again to force the pads apart. Don't forget to close the brake nipple as soon as the pads are apart enough.
When you've done both sides and the wheels are back on pump the brake pedal a few times to get the pads touching the rotor. Don't drive the car until you do this first otherwise you'll find you don't have any brakes.
Now go for a drive. Get up to 40ks and gently slow the car down to 10ks. Do this 5 or 6 times then get up to 60ks and repeat the slowing down process another 5 or 6 times. This will bed in your new pads and you can then start driving normal.
I'll PM you my mobile number so if you have any hiccups you can give me a call.
Cheers
Paul
PS. It's after midnight and I've probably left out a step or two so anyone who wants to make a comment is more than welcome.
Last edited by sports racer; 10-06-2010 at 12:24 AM.
1978 MK1 2.0 16v http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...-46488-70.html
1991 MK2 GTI 2.0 8v, white (RIP) and it's red replacement http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...gti-42078.html
1997 MK3 CL http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1292061
2001 & 2002 Bora 4motion. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...st-123823.html
Think you got it all Paul, apart from the part where you said the Bleed nipple is 15cm long
<space for rent>
Wow, thankyou Paul!
PMed back.
1978 MK1 2.0 16v http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...-46488-70.html
1991 MK2 GTI 2.0 8v, white (RIP) and it's red replacement http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...gti-42078.html
1997 MK3 CL http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1292061
2001 & 2002 Bora 4motion. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...st-123823.html
Yeah I know what the nipples look like, sorta like grease nipples but bigger.
All good.
And if its 15cm long you wont miss it!!! LOL...... <just taking the Piss Paul >
<space for rent>
Haha I misread it as 15mm anyway.
need a hand just sing out!
<space for rent>
Going to be living back where the MK1 actually is as of Sunday, so there will be plenty more work done on it (if I get motivated).
I'll be sure to keep that in mind though Dan!
I'm starting to get my head around all this stuff you guys are accustomed with.
I was never encouraged into delving to the depths of mechanics with anything, so bare with me please!
No worries. If I can teach my wife to modify brakes I can help you to do anything.
And ask stupid questions. That's the easiest way to get people to answer in simple terms that are easy to understand.
1978 MK1 2.0 16v http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...-46488-70.html
1991 MK2 GTI 2.0 8v, white (RIP) and it's red replacement http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...gti-42078.html
1997 MK3 CL http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1292061
2001 & 2002 Bora 4motion. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...st-123823.html
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