Haha I'll take that as a compliment, Paul!![]()
That's good to know you started out like I did, considering you jumped in and did a body restoration and a whole lotta other stuff.
I just wish I had better facilities, an air compressor and maybe a welder so I can really progress.
None of my close friends are into cars/hand on stuff at all, which makes progressing that little bit slower.
Hoping to accomplish and learn a lot this year.
On a side not but still related to brakes.
Has anyone ever found that their brake lights tend to stay on after car is shut off and locked up? its only dim, but enough to drain a battery over night..
I found the plug plugged into side of Master cylinder was rather hot. and i hadnt driven car at all today. i just pulled it off and tested to see if lights work with just one sensor working.
Also anyone know what wires do what on those plugs? i want to know where to tap into so i can setup something around the brake pedal to trigger the lights when pedal hit.
Last edited by GRN_VAGN; 15-06-2010 at 05:28 PM.
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Checked out the width of my cars rotors, they're at about 8mm!
I got prices for new pads and rotors from a Geelong brake/clutch place today...
$55 for each rotor (239mm solid)
EBC pads (set) for $80
Bendix pads (set) for $55
Has anyone bought replacements from GAP? What did the shipping set you back? How long does **** take to get here from them?
They gave me a good price inc. shipping for an integrated reservoir radiator, wondering if I could get them packaged the same.
Grn vagn, those wires and etc is the brake lights switch. standard setup is hydraulic, and whilst it's not a common problem for them to fail, they do fail/stuff up everynow and then.
look through pete jones brake threads, and my diesel build thread, there is a bit of info in there about setting up a manual brake pedal switch, as is standard on later model cars. I used a switch from a mk 2, which was slightly fiddly to put in. I reckon go trawling at the wreckers and you'd probably come up trumps with a few things from commodores or what not. 2 of those three wires set off the brake lights, I can't remember which ones, but tap em together and you'll soon find out. If I can fit a brake switch, so can you or anyone else here! it's pretty easy.
Jace, GAP shipping is pretty quick. could probably have that stuff here in a week, if they've got it in stock. shipping wouldn't be cheap cheap, cause discs aren't exactly light... Unless you were planning on getting a few other things at the same time, it's probably not really worth it. Unless you were to grab a few other things that you needed at the same time. that's where it becomes valuable for us, when you buy lots of things and save on shipping.
Last edited by Jarred; 15-06-2010 at 05:34 PM.
yeah i know its hydraulic jarred, and i know about the pedal setup. was going to try use one from a ke55 corolla as i think i got one back in tassy.
Just wondering about where to splice in thats all.... off hunting on forums and google i guess.
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ah right oh.
thats pretty easy. pull the 3 wires off the switch, push them back through the firewall a bit (so you can them pull them through from the inside)
and then fiddle with 2 wires at a time till you find which 2 do the switching, and then attach them to the switch. the mk 2 golf switch i used only had 2 wires coming off it.
Good to hear there shipping can be fast. I waited for about 3 weeks for some small bits from moogie/MK1autohaus.
They (GAP) quoted me US$125 max. shipped for a radiator! Then said it could be less if they can squeeze it into a smaller box!
Made me question the quality of the radiator itself...
Hoping Lawny will chime in and let me know what another joint in Geelong charged him.
Cheers Jarred..
I have everything for the bigger booster/MC/Rear Drums thanks to help of Matt (hiho)
Will update when done
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