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Thread: Bagged Bunny

  1. #141
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Melb Westsideeeee
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    Users Country Flag Thread Starter

    Finished the rest on one side. Also pretty proud of the way the C notch came up, really clean and tidy. Will shave it down completely on the visible side at a later stage.

    Ive had the biggest issue so far that when i have the bay bare metal in the places i am working on, the other bits keep gathering surface rust in the mean time. Im a little worried that it may grip harder in the humid weather now and it will come back at a later stage. Do i have to keep putting a coat of paint everytime, or is there something i can do to wipe the surface rust away?








    - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
    - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
    - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
    - 88 Honda crx b18cr

  2. #142
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Bentleigh, Melbourne
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    1,007
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  3. #143
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Braidwood, rural NSW
    Posts
    3,231
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    Get some Lanolin. It's the stuff that comes from sheep and works really well in keeping rust away.

    A panelbeater down the coast had a beetle that he sandblasted several years ago. He didn't do anything except rub a coat of lanolin on it and several years later when he finally got round to painting it there was no rust!

    It doesn't convert rust so you have to get rid of it first or you could try something like Kilrust which will react with the rust to give a hard surface.

    Nice welding, wish I could do as good a job.

  4. #144
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Melb Westsideeeee
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    Thanks for that mate, i'll look into it. The issue is that i work on one part of the bay today as i have the certain tools out, and the next day i do another side etc. and that leaves surface rust trails here and there. So for me to apply that coat and remove it each day is a bit too much. I tried rubbing vinegar on the surface rust and after a scrub it comes off, but still has a slight left.

    So today i had a few hours after work, and thought i would finally try and finish off the driver side turret/strut tower. Where the rain tray was, there has been water gathering for years and slowly the rust has bit quite hard. So i just attacked it with the grinder and cut it out.





    Heres the culprit, you can see the buildup of rust.




    Mimicked the shape and welded in a new bit. Gave it a clean and ground it down, seams to have come up ok but un even at some points. Nothing filler cant fix. I've completed this side, having ground all the welds down, all i'll do when the time comes is apply the filler to smooth over everything. My biggest issue is having slight rust patches build up until it comes to paint, so i've hit it with a coat of primer hoping it will slow/stop it until it comes time to paint - in which case i will pretty much POR 15 the whole car.






    - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
    - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
    - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
    - 88 Honda crx b18cr

  5. #145
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Braidwood, rural NSW
    Posts
    3,231
    Users Country Flag
    You don't have to rub the lanolin off until you've finished and are ready to paint, then it just washes off.

    Epic job you are doing. Keep the pictures coming.

    Cheers

    Paul

  6. #146
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Scarborough
    Posts
    56
    Users Country Flag
    Lanolin, or Lanox, is just sheeps fat. It's good stuff to coat the inside of your panels with and your electrical connections too. Smells like **** though.

    Doing some great work on this George, looks sweet.

  7. #147
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Melb Westsideeeee
    Posts
    1,456
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    I have to have a look into it guys, any ideas where to actually get some lanolin?

    Finished up some more in the garage, plugged up the brake booster hole, and plugged up the clutch cable hole too. Shaped it and it turned out pretty damn good, i surprise myself some times.

    I have a lot more rust repair and plugging to do. Anyway this weekend is a public holiday in Vic, so i'll be doing a bit more work - so i thought i would treat the golfie with a pedal box Will be looking into some ways to hold it up firmly.







    - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
    - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
    - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
    - 88 Honda crx b18cr

  8. #148
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Scarborough
    Posts
    56
    Users Country Flag
    Those wilwood pedals are so nice.

    They sell lanox at Supercheap pal! EDIT: At supercheap it's Lanotech

  9. #149
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Melb Westsideeeee
    Posts
    1,456
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    Hey guys, just a question for those who have ever gone a custom brake setup. How do I know what size m/c's ill need? I'd like to get them so I can make sure it all fits under the dash before I make the brackets, but unsure on how to work out what kind of m/c I'd need front and back
    - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
    - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
    - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
    - 88 Honda crx b18cr

  10. #150
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    363

    Just fitting the same pedals to my MK1 rocco.I'm using 3/4 master cylinders but am using 4 pot boxster fronts and G4 rears.There is not much room and you will have to clearance the steering shaft mount and modify the m/c's to fit and mount the resovoirs remotely.
    Widebody Cayman S Turbo, 83 ur Quattro
    2000 996 C4 cab,12 Scirocco R OEM+ STG2+
    72 914 (3.2S boxster pwr), 92 G60 Corrado
    76 Scirocco(TFSI and DSG) 2018 Tiguan,Eureka,81 924.

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