Backo n H's Mk1 build

**Backo** · 19-03-2015, 09:53 PM

Cheers Chris, I will do in the near future.

Well, last time I had just given the old girl a bath and started to strip down the block. The head bolts were M12 12 point headed bolts that I didn't have a driver for. H came to the rescue and found a set lying in the bottom of his toolbox. So tonight I ripped the head off to see what we would be working with.

**Backo** · 19-03-2015, 10:01 PM

The bores were badly rusted and cylinder 2 was full of water, probably from the steam clean. Piston 1 has indentations in it so maybe a ring has let go.

Here is the head. Its in good nick, ready for some big valves and top spec valve gear with a wild cam. Notice lots of burnt oil all over the place. H said last time he had it running it was using oil.

I gave the bores a quick hit with WD40 and some wet/dry to have a better look at the condition they are in. I haven't measured them yet but it should bore out nicely. The rings must be absolutely rooted as the bores are very glazed. This old thing has done alot of work.

**Backo** · 19-03-2015, 10:31 PM

H and I have decided to run in the Australian Tarmac Rally Championship.
The Australian Tarmac Rally Championship
We will build the car to the higher level specs and run it in at a few track days to see how it goes before entering formal competition. We looked at doing the Australian Targa Series, Targa Tasmania etc but the entry fees are bloody ridiculous. Nearly $8K just for the Targa Tassie alone! Maybe one day down the track but not yet. Bathurst Light Car Club is just over an hour away, but we want more run time than 2-3 minutes per run. I have also been looking at the Improved Production series, but I want to keep that for my Civic.

The rules state that we must retain the same number of camshafts so that rules out 16 & 20 valve applications. Gearbox is free, however we must retain the original H pattern in the shifter. Works good for us as the 2.0 has a 5 speed with LSD in it. Perfect!
The weight can be up to 15% lower than original manufacturer's numbers. I am told that the 2 door weighed 810kg standard (need to check this) so that puts us at about 690kg minimum weight. I don't think we could get down that far but we will try. A screaming 8v in something this light will still be pretty fast.
We can widen the track overall by 100mm with flares and wider wheels which is an advantage we will be taking. H is considering making widebody front guards up in fiberglass after making a plug so that we have a steady supply if needed. Rear guards will be done in steel.

Screaming 8v race motors being researched now before anything else is done. Is there a short throw gear shifter and cable conversion available for these or will I have to make my own?

**Peter Jones** · 20-03-2015, 09:15 PM

16v may still be possible, the MK1 was homolgated to run a 16v Oettinger motor back in the day.

You can find the paperwork here VWMotorsport.info | Definitive information source for VWs in competition, worldwide

Depends on the exact wording in your regs if they'll allow it.

Cable shifters are available for those gear boxes and you can also make your own. It's possible to adapt a late model cable shifter into the car with a lot of DIY.

CAE make a nice unit but it's very pricey CAE Ultra Shifter VW Golf 1, Scirocco 1&2 / 020, 1.249,00 â‚¬

I think the fastest I got my 2.0 8v out to was 186km/h as a rough indicator, there might be some useful info in my wreck to race thread

Do you require a rollcage? They add a lot of weight back in.

**Notso Swift** · 21-03-2015, 09:30 AM

Originally Posted by Water Boy

I know a few hillclimb people who are silly like me and think there is the 2% tolerance!
Lesson learned!

I would suggest some of the hillclimb rules are not that well enforced

I know of one (former national champion in IP, know's better) who was running Hillclimbs with a WRX scoop stuck on the bonnet of a honda with a big hole to feed the carbs

**Notso Swift** · 21-03-2015, 09:44 AM

Homologation Document numbers you need are
1.6, 5731 for Group 1, later 5172 as Group A
1.8 is 5096 (Group A)

16S is a Group 4 (667) I am 99% sure that will be NOT allowed, Gr4 is the precursor to Group B, only Group 1 and A if you are looking for homologated parts

I would suggest, and I say this from a lot of experience, do not build your car into a corner you can't get out of
Things like glass guards are easy to replace but if you chop into some parts the car can only ever be used for one thing. Turn up to a hillclimb for some fun and it is a bit of a downer when you get put into a class with slick shod sports sedans and you are in a road reg, for example

As Peter said, keep it as light as you can, and I am including the 2 bodies inside, Don't fuss that much about power, (if you keep it light,) Remember torque is what accelerates you, good gear ratio's (gears are what is used to multiply torque) will be faster than 15% more power on bad ratio's. Power is your top speed, you will not be going over 200 on a rally stage anyway

**sports racer** · 21-03-2015, 01:41 PM

As an indication my road registered MK1 weighs 840 kg with driver (the young bloke I bought it off). It still has the complete interior so could go a lot lighter and doesn't need mega horsepower to get it moving quickly.

**Backo** · 23-03-2015, 08:50 PM

Thanks for the info there re homologations. I will look into it. Yes, this car will be getting a full cage.

A few engine internal pics tonight from the strip down. A minor post really, just because. I need to purchase a pulley remover to take off the distributor drive shaft pulley and crank pulley.

The sump was removed. It this windage tray common? I'm not sure if I will use it. On the lookout for a good quality steel item. I will fabricate my own large volume full baffled sump as well.

Silicone in the oil pickup

Stock pistons and rods. Bearings looked good as did the big end journals. Some minor staining there on the big ends.