78 2-Door Build Thread

[dubmc]

it wouldnt be easier and or cheaper to just buy a new box?

yeah it may well be, i'll look into during the week and see what is the best option long term, i will also upgrade the clutch while i'm there...

[ffoff]

see what happens, I've got an audi 1.9l and 5 speed box from my parts car you can use if need be.

[mikinoz]

What a shame mate. But you'll end up in a better place once you've got through this and out the other side.

And probably a whole heap wiser!

[Peter Jones]

You could change to diff to one that takes circlips or use the experience to justify putting in an LSD.

If you're not fussed about ratios the MK3 boxes are cheap.

I'm puzzled as to why you've got a bolt retaining the flange all the 5 speeds I've seen have circlips.

[dubmc]

You could change to diff to one that takes circlips or use the experience to justify putting in an LSD.

If you're not fussed about ratios the MK3 boxes are cheap.

I'm puzzled as to why you've got a bolt retaining the flange all the 5 speeds I've seen have circlips.

yeah it's an 020 5-speed...i haven't seen any other MK1 gearboxes, but yeah this one definately has the centre allen key to hold the diff flange one...the previous owner had modified it, not myself and as i've said put one of those crappy friction kits in...i would obviously put a poper LSD in, but student wages don't allow for it.

however, i can feel the groove on the shaft where a circlip would go...are you suggesting that this would be enough to hold the whole flange on? would it be worth a try?

if i do need to replace the box i will look for a short ratio box...recommendatios? as i will be looking to increase engine capacity in the future as well.

thanks!

[Peter Jones]

Definitely worth a try, normally that threaded hole has nothing in it, it's only used to install the flanges. Take a look at this page.

020 Flange

The circlip is all that's required.


As to close ratio gear boxes, they're hard to find.

There's three different diff ratios in the close ratio boxes, 3.94, 3.89 and 3.67

3.94 is what I use, it's the lowest of the stock ratios and gives you about 200Km/h at redline in 5th. Punchy out of the corners.

3.67 is higher and more economical on the street.

Close ratio gear box codes and ratios are

FM FD FK

3.45, 2.12, 1.44, 1.13, 0.91 FDR 3.89

4K

3.45, 2.12, 1.44, 1.13, 0.89 FDR 3.94

4Y 9A ACD AEN

3.45, 2.12, 1.44, 1.13, 0.89 FDR 3.67

7G

3.45, 2.12, 1.44, 1.13, 0.91 FDR 3.65

2H

3.45, 2.12, 1.44, 1.13, 0.91 FDR 3.94

AGB 2Y

3.45, 2.12, 1.44, 1.13, 0.91 FDR 3.67

[dubmc]

Definitely worth a try, normally that threaded hole has nothing in it, it's only used to install the flanges. Take a look at this page.

020 Flange

The circlip is all that's required.


As to close ratio gear boxes, they're hard to find.

There's three different diff ratios in the close ratio boxes, 3.94, 3.89 and 3.67

3.94 is what I use, it's the lowest of the stock ratios and gives you about 200Km/h at redline in 5th. Punchy out of the corners.

3.67 is higher and more economical on the street.

Close ratio gear box codes and ratios are

FM FD FK

3.45, 2.12, 1.44, 1.13, 0.91 FDR 3.89

4K

3.45, 2.12, 1.44, 1.13, 0.89 FDR 3.94

4Y 9A ACD AEN

3.45, 2.12, 1.44, 1.13, 0.89 FDR 3.67

7G

3.45, 2.12, 1.44, 1.13, 0.91 FDR 3.65

2H

3.45, 2.12, 1.44, 1.13, 0.91 FDR 3.94

AGB 2Y

3.45, 2.12, 1.44, 1.13, 0.91 FDR 3.67

thanks pete, extremely useful information! i'll investigate further but i can see what your saying! much appreciated.

[dubmc]

so a massive thanks to pete jones...absolute guru and saved me the extreme hassle of taking out the gearbox and potentially outlaying a lot of money...

as suggested by pete there is not meant to be a bolt into the stub-axle. obviously a previous (non-vw) workshop and done a dody and just used a bolt instead of the factory set-up...

this afternoon i removed the crappy set-up and prepared it for the factory washer and circlip which should be arriving friday!

i also fabricated a home-made flange installation device as it's the only way to do it properly due to the thickness of the spring behind the flange!

anyway was happy with the way the tool came up (no bad for someone who works in media ahah and should have the car back on the road this weekend.

pete i owe you a beer.

[Rob Burns]

I'm guessing you were able to get the bolt out from inside?

[dubmc]

I'm guessing you were able to get the bolt out from inside?

there didn't seem to be any in there, to be honest I think the bolt had been cut in half very roughly with a grinder...I used that tool to repair (can't remember the name right now) the thread to a respectable state, enough to get the threaded rod to bite...cheers rob