Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: 16v head on 8v block

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    619
    Users Country Flag

    16v head on 8v block

    hey guys,

    some of you may know from my build thread - i'm currently in the process of building another engine.

    just finished rebuilding a 2l block with forgies and balanced crank.

    am undecided on which head to go with - initially i was going to purchase an 8v head and port it up etc - however recently it has been suggested that i can go with a early 16v head which will bolt on directly...

    i will be keeping the dellorto so will require a new inlet manifold and exhaust manifold...

    essentially im after some opinions/advice with doing this particular conversion - have many people done it before? if so what are the common issues - things to look out for?

    thanks.
    78 2-door 1.8 KR 16v - twin dellorto's

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,059
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by dubmc View Post
    hey guys,

    some of you may know from my build thread - i'm currently in the process of building another engine.

    just finished rebuilding a 2l block with forgies and balanced crank.

    am undecided on which head to go with - initially i was going to purchase an 8v head and port it up etc - however recently it has been suggested that i can go with a early 16v head which will bolt on directly...

    i will be keeping the dellorto so will require a new inlet manifold and exhaust manifold...

    essentially im after some opinions/advice with doing this particular conversion - have many people done it before? if so what are the common issues - things to look out for?

    thanks.
    It's done quite often, but only for forced induction applications, as the compression drops down to around 8.2:1 - far too low to achieve any level of NA performance. You'd need to drop in 16v pistons, but it's a bit late for that if you've already bought 8v spec forged pistons. At this point in time, you're better of just fitting a big valve 8v head, otherwise you'll be backtracking and spending a lot more money

    1976 Project Carbon Mk1 - Sold! | 2015 Lotus Exige Cup | F80 M3 Family Wheels

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    perth, W.A
    Posts
    167
    Is it the height of the head which drops the comp? Being a 2L block would the stroke be the same/similar to an abf? What if you dropped a kr head on? My mechanical knowledge is pretty limited, I can look at something, pull it apart, put it back together and make it work but the numbers and decimal points is where I get lost :/

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    1,087
    It's the piston top shape that changes compression.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,165
    The lower compression is due to the extra volume contained within the domed shape of the 16v combustion chamber - inside the head. The pistons in a 16v are flat, whilst the 8v pistons have a dish in them. The 8v combustion chamber is inside the block, thus when you mate a 16v head with an 8v block, you get two effective combustion chamber volumes. Conversely, with an 8v head on a 16v block, you get 0 combustion chamber volume.

    If you wanna keep your dellortos and pistons etc, perhaps try an aba or other crossflow 8v head. Would have gone that route myself if i could do it over again. All of your 8v effort won't be wasted, but biggest hurdle is sourcing a head. Everything incl. valves, lifters, cams exhaust manifold/headers etc are interchangeable with your existing 8v components.

    87' MK2 GTI
    13' MK7 TDI

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Perth. WA
    Posts
    1,203
    You also need to change the intermediate shaft, crank pulley, intermediate shaft pulley, oil pump drive gear and thrust bearing / cover ( where the 8V dizzy goes) use a 16v oil pump, and have piston oil squirters preferably in the *v block your using. Then there is the different timing belt, distributor , plug leads etc... list is near endless... plus you of course need to have the 16V head, cams, sprocket etc...Exhaust manifold / extractors have a different bolt pattern and the inlet manifold as you already have indicated.

    Cheaper option is to buy a complete engine IMO.

    Glad to see that you have your mind working on options though
    Lots of MK 1 Scirocco's...

    If it aint a MK 1 then it must be a donor car ??

    Cheers,
    Grant...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Orange NSW
    Posts
    5,745

    Quote Originally Posted by roccodingo View Post
    You also need to change the intermediate shaft, crank pulley, intermediate shaft pulley, oil pump drive gear and thrust bearing / cover ( where the 8V dizzy goes) use a 16v oil pump, and have piston oil squirters preferably in the *v block your using. Then there is the different timing belt, distributor , plug leads etc... list is near endless... plus you of course need to have the 16V head, cams, sprocket etc...Exhaust manifold / extractors have a different bolt pattern and the inlet manifold as you already have indicated.

    Cheaper option is to buy a complete engine IMO.

    Glad to see that you have your mind working on options though
    What Grant said..


    Either buy a 16v or continue with your 8v, dude.

    APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
    Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
    Email: chris@tprengineering.com

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
| |