1600 ignition timing

[gldgti]

ok guys...

trying to get the LS running a little better while i get the diesel engine built, since thats going to take a little while, and i want to make good on the body/suspension until i do the swap - i want it to drive nicely still.

i've looked everywhere on the internet for the ignition timing procedure for the standard 1600 carbie points ignition, but i cant find anything conclusive... and i can't find my MANUAL! BWWAAAAAAA!

so, if anyone could have a looksy in their manual and maybe scan me the page on ignition timing setup, that'd be grand.

i can get the car to run ok, but i'm just guessing where to set it - seems to be about 10 degrees crank angle of "runs ok" but i cant find the sweet spot.

also - i have the old dizzy with the 2 way vacuum connection (a hose to both sides of the diaphragm). im right in thinking that i should really connect vacuum (from brake booster T line) to the RETARD side of the diaphragm right? but then what should the other side do? why is it even there?

[Golf Loon]

I think the other advance side needs to goto the carby. Is there an outlet on the back?? Its been years since I played with a stock carby.

The advance is more important than the retard. i`d just use the other kind of dissy mate.

[Peter Jones]

Connect the front side of the dizzy to the vacuum outlet on the carb itself.

Don't worry about vacuum retard.

which engine code is it?

Dwell should be 44° to 50°

Gap should be 0.4mm

FB,FD,FH,FK 7.5±1° BTDC
FP, FT, FR, FZV, GH TDC±1°
GH, JB 9°±1° BTDC
EG TDC ± 1°

From the Haynes book of lies.

I usually just advance it 'till it pings then back it off a bit.

Pete

[16v_kid]

my golf mk1 1600cc wast running well ether.

so i put electric ignition from my gti that got smashed,

it RUN WONDERFUL.

i thought it was the carby, but it turned out to be this,

all the best,

[gtimk5]

The advance connection is on the side of the carby near the mixture adjustment screws.
The timing with the retard hose connected is 3degrees after TDC.
If you disconnect the retard pipe then you need to advance the timing approx. 10 degrees before.
I would run the retard if you still have it connected as I reckon it gives a better advance curve.
Ask away if you need to know anything, I cut my teeth on early golfs when they were released!
Andrew

Oh, and the 1.6 deisel has your name on it too!!! That is if and when I do a conversion.

[gldgti]

ahh sorry - should have mentioned its got a weber DGV on it.

i think the engine code is FH - can't remember - but its the usual LS 1600 with all the emissions gear blocked off etc.

thanks for that info pete.... i'll try to set the dwell and points gap up maybe tomorrow in a study break.

alternately, anyone got an electronic ignition setup they wanna sell me?

i got 6.5l/100km in the car over the weekend (even with it running rough), with 2 up and luggage on a trip... i figure i might as well make the most of it.

The advance connection is on the side of the carby near the mixture adjustment screws.
The timing with the retard hose connected is 3degrees after TDC.
If you disconnect the retard pipe then you need to advance the timing approx. 10 degrees before.
I would run the retard if you still have it connected as I reckon it gives a better advance curve.
Ask away if you need to know anything, I cut my teeth on early golfs when they were released!
Andrew

Oh, and the 1.6 deisel has your name on it too!!! That is if and when I do a conversion.

Cheers! and Cheers!

[gldgti]

I usually just advance it 'till it pings then back it off a bit.

Pete

i tried that - can't hear it pingin for all the exhaust noise ( i have GTI manifold and extractors, with a genie turbo rear box.... its quite noisy.

[Jarred]

...
i got 6.5l/100km in the car over the weekend ......

how!!! mine did 10's! well it was poorly tuned, but still 6.5l/100kms?!? woah!

[Golf Loon]

I reckon I have an electronic ignition setup that came out of the rocco. I`ll check at work tomorrow. Call and remind me if you are keen.

[gldgti]

how!!! mine did 10's! well it was poorly tuned, but still 6.5l/100kms?!? woah!

easy mate - get your head under the bonnet, spend a lot of time there.... don't come out until you know it backwards (and have your manual handy (DOH!)

nah really - a free flowing exhaust, tyres pumped up to about 40psi (conti eco contact, 185/55/14), no dragging brakes, good wheel bearings, lowered ride height helps a bit i reckon, as does the lip spoiler, and run good quality oil (penrite is what i use).

do all that and you ought to get good fuel economy.