1.8 8v nom nom nomming oil

[Mk1DUB]

I'm reading in to this and realising that I can't just throw my carb onto an efi head.. right? Injectors are inside the head itself... fml. Being a mechanical noob sucks, but at least I'm learning. It's looking more and more like I'm going to have to reco my head and put it on a 2.0L block. Thankfully I've read quite a few threads where people didn't have to make any adjustments to their exhaust in order to fit the 16mm taller block. Though some people DID have to use 15mm adaptor/spacers to stop the exhaust from banging the bulkhead.

Right now I'm just thinking of getting a direct replacement... just gotta get one that's carbed. What would you pay for a 1.8 8v with 120,000 k's on it and a known but undiagnosed oil leak? My other option is a 170,000k PB motor with no oil leaks that just ran 500K's in 40 degree temps with no fluid loss. But I'm pretty sure that the PB had EFI (digifant.. right?) from a mk2, which means I couldn't use my carb setup that I've just spent $600 getting professionally tuned/mounted. In which case I'd have to get my head reconditioned to stay carbed...

Anyone know what's involved with going efi from carb (with engine swap)? the PB comes with no accessories, so I'd be screwed... god damn this sucks haha.

[ericcs]

I'm reading in to this and realising that I can't just throw my carb onto an efi head.. right? Injectors are inside the head itself... fml. Being a mechanical noob sucks, but at least I'm learning. It's looking more and more like I'm going to have to reco my head and put it on a 2.0L block. Thankfully I've read quite a few threads where people didn't have to make any adjustments to their exhaust in order to fit the 16mm taller block. Though some people DID have to use 15mm adaptor/spacers to stop the exhaust from banging the bulkhead.

Right now I'm just thinking of getting a direct replacement... just gotta get one that's carbed. What would you pay for a 1.8 8v with 120,000 k's on it and a known but undiagnosed oil leak? My other option is a 170,000k PB motor with no oil leaks that just ran 500K's in 40 degree temps with no fluid loss. But I'm pretty sure that the PB had EFI (digifant.. right?) from a mk2, which means I couldn't use my carb setup that I've just spent $600 getting professionally tuned/mounted. In which case I'd have to get my head reconditioned to stay carbed...

Anyone know what's involved with going efi from carb (with engine swap)? the PB comes with no accessories, so I'd be screwed... god damn this sucks haha.

i haven'y seen it, only read it, but apparently you can cap the ports in the side of the head where the efi injectors pushed in.
as far as the carb engine with the oil leak, just press in a new front and rear main seal and maybe a new sump gasket before you refit it. if it's the rear main, it will be easy to confirm once the flywheel is removed

[Mk1DUB]

Looks like I'm going to go with the leaky one.. I watched some vids/read some guides and the front/rear seals don't seem super challenging. I just have to do the rocker cover gasket at the same time right? looks like that's gotta come off to do the front main seal.

I don't want to stuff around with blocking injector ports. Plus the leaky one comes with passat manifold and a 32/36 weber (already got mine obviously) but I could onsell it for cash to do other things to the mk1, or I could keep it as a backup and break it apart to learn how to do my own carb tuneing/work.

I can get a full head/block gasket set for $70 to my door from hansautoparts.com so that'd probably be the way to go. Then I have gaskets for anything, should they fail.. or I could just go HAM and do every gasket during the swap... thoughts? The only hard one would be the headgasket, because I'd have to also get new headbolts (learning soooo much from the interballs).

[sports racer]

Get the leaky one, replace the seals and put it in your car. Get the full head/block gasket set for spares and enjoy the driving.

You could put your carby on if you want to but at least you're mobile again.

When you have time/money get your existing hear reco'd, put it on a 2e block and you've got a 2.0 you can put in anytime you want to.

Or you could wait till later this year when I know there's a sweet worked 1.8 coming onto the market. Sits on 160k's with ease in a MK2 body. Not mine but it's getting a 20v transplant.

Cheers

Paul

PS. you can put your carby manifold on an EFI head, just block the injectors with $2 blanks from some of the VW shops.

[Mk1DUB]

mmmmmmm this intrigues me. If blocking the injectors is possible... would the PB be better than the ADZ? The PB apparently had 112hp.. but I would assume this is from the efi system being more efficient than the stock carb of the JH (85hp ). The ADZ apparently had 90hp. Any input in regards to this? My arse dyno tells me that the JH has about 100hp with just the 32/36 on it...

If the PB is actually a better design and will provide more power, then I'll just go that route and block the injector holes. As you said, I'll keep my JH head.. ditch the block (can't imagine getting any cash for a block without accessories), get it worked when I have the cash and grab a cheap 2.0L block for the extra choo choo, while remaining reliable as a daily Then I could grab ANOTHER mk1 and turn the PB into an 1800 race horse XD lol.. no... one is enough.

Finally feel like I'm closing down on a decision, it'll be one of these two 1.8's, and it'll also be my first engine swap

[sports racer]

Send Peter Jones a PM or ring Peter Shelley at Canberra VW Centre Kiama.

Both of these guys know MK1's better than anyone else and have done ever known swap imaginable to a MK1.

[Mk1DUB]

ok.. so checked the fluids before/after a 15 minute drive. Oil is still at max (Has definitely gone through 1L of oil over 2 weeks, on two occasions this year). The coolant, however, was basically foam..



The catch can has this much oil, mostly since christmas (had nothing in the tube before then).



It didn't smoke once.. I revved it at the lights, revved it when it had JUST started (I know.. I know not to do this..), but there is fresh oil down under the fuel pump (think I might be missing a gasket.. but still.. 1L shouldn't go that quick with a missing fuel pump gasket.. right?). having said all that, it very obviously does smoke at the lights, from time to time.. not always, and has spat oil from the exhaust onto someone when revved after being off for about 20 minutes).



Based on these pics/information, anything else to add? The sediment in the catch can oil is a bit concerning. Part of me hoped that I'd f'ed up with something and the engine would be fine... I'm really thinking it's just time to bite the bullet, grab a 1.8 8v, get the swap done and just see what happens -.-

[dubstar]

Can you post a pic of the oil cap removed. Does it look like mayonnaise under the cap?


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[GeorgeMK1]

As I mentioned to you dude, your best bet is the adz direct replacement. Not just because I have one for sale, but because I've swapped over 7 engines in my mk1's to date. I've had a 2e, and etx but the easiest, quickest, cheapest option was an adz with your existing carby. I've ran 3 of these lovely motors. Would take one day to fit and another 15 min to find the leak, and put a new seal in.

That's my 2c anyway.