Wheel wear inner edge

[pontiff]

Just got back from a wheel alignment as I found that the drivers side tyres inner edge was down to the canvas (I know.. I should monitor them more).. Anyway the results are :


Tow Before LH/RH
Tow After LH/RH

-2.6mm +0.9mm
+0.4mm +0.3mm

Camber Before LH/RH
Camber After LH/RH
-0.41deg -1.13deg
-0.43deg -1.13deg



As we all know the camber is not adjustable but that would at least explain the wear given the factory parameters are +-0.30.

I have not had an accident, ran up any gutters at speed aside from the odd unforeseen pothole.

So my question is, while there is no official camber adjustment mechanism aside from moving the subframe (which I don't want to do), is there ANY adjustment at all that people have been able to find? Any of the bolts give a little or similar? Could the top strug mount have moved / started to collapse which could cause this?

Any suggestions on what to try to resolve this?

[Martin]

1 degree of negative camber won't wear out the inner edge
I run 1.75 degrees negative (after market control arms) and can do 45k~55km on front tyres
(I do get uneven wear - the inside does wear faster than the outside but it's mild)

It won't be possible to make a 1 degree adjustment at the top of the strut
It takes 1mm of adjustment at the bottom and a LOT more at the top to make a 1 degree change

Worth checking your LCA bushes
You can loosen the strut to hub bolts, apply a big lever to pull the top outwards, tighten while still pulling
You can often get half a degree that way which would get you close

It's more likely that the 1mm toe out is the problem - toe out is nasty
The left front was also a mess, toed in by a lot, looks like both wheels have been through a pot hole
(With each side being way out I would have expected you to be driving with the steering off center)

[OUR6R]

Well all I can say is get used to it. I have a 2010 6R Comfortline with the 17" wheels and I get exactly 20ks out of a set of fronts. I've had countless Toe adjustments as a full geometric wheel alignment can't be done due to the subframe system. I've had VW align the subframe and nothing is ever improved. As yours mine wear the inner edge of the tyres evenly so simple deduction tells you the frame is equally aligned or one would wear more than the other. My 4 year of investigation and adjustments have improved nothing.

[Mitchh]

Sorry to highjack but i feel like my question is some what related.

I recently got some new tyres put on, first set since the factory rubber, and ever since i've had a wobble/vibration above 80kph. I did not get a wheel alignment as i wasn't sure if i should since the steering wheel was straight and the car didn't pull in any direction before the new tyres went on. I took it back and they found 2 of the wheel were out by 5-10 grams so they fixed that up but i still have the wobble. It's fairly bad, kinda like corrugated road bad.

Could it been wheel alignment? Or something else perhaps, like brake rotors being different masses from one side to the other? Or something completely different again.

Cheer guys

[Martin]

So, once you sort this out, don't go back to that tyre shop...

Assuming the balance is now right, two things to check

Have they lost your hub centric rings?
Only applies if you are using after market wheels with a different hub diameter

Need to check the wheels for lateral run out which will cause vibration

(I guess it's possible you may have a bad wheel bearing - which would be unusually early)

A wheel alignment won't fix a vibration

[Mitchh]

So, once you sort this out, don't go back to that tyre shop...

Assuming the balance is now right, two things to check

Have they lost your hub centric rings?
Only applies if you are using after market wheels with a different hub diameter

Need to check the wheels for lateral run out which will cause vibration

(I guess it's possible you may have a bad wheel bearing - which would be unusually early)

A wheel alignment won't fix a vibration

Thanks for the reply

Yeah definetally wont be going back, even though i have had no bad experiences there before.

Standard wheels, so no centric rings

Lateral run out may be possible, there is rust on the wheel hubs, should i try and take the rust off myself with some emery paper?

26,000km on the car, and there is a bit of tyre noise as speed increases. The old tyres did that too... Maybe it is a wheel bearing, but i would assume that the noise would be a LOT worse than what i am hearing if a wheel bearing is bad enough to cause a serious wobble.

Do you know of good tyre shop in the illawarra area?

Thank again

[Martin]

A medium sized wire brush (Josco from Bunnings - in the tool secton) on a drill is the easy and gentle way to clean the hub face

The wheel bearings should be fine at that mileage - and they have to be pretty shot for people to notice
Some tyres make more noise than others and these cars don't have great noise insulation

I live in Sutherland and have always got good service from Kar Pro in Sutherland
(They have a Miranda outlet - I've never used that outlet)
Great Deals on New Tyres in Sydney for Small, Medium, Family, Performance, 4 Wheel Drive Cars.

Failing that, Pedders in Taren Point provide a consistent service
Pedders Taren Point - suspension, shock absorbers, brakes

Avoid Jax - very variable and pain in the arse
Worst example is a friend getting new tyres, drove away, didn't get out of their lot and onto the road, wheel came off