Thanks. I was thinking more along the lines of a code / number on the engine. If it is a completely new engine, should be CTHE, rather than CAVE. Is there a stamp on the engine that shows this? If so, where to look?
And yes, next time I get to my car, I intend to look for myself...
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2011 Polo GTI | Black | 5 doors | Comfort pack | Audio pack | 9w7 Bluetooth | Xenons - a Return to VW!
Previous ride: 2008 Mazda2 - ZOOM-ZOOM indeed!
1st Ride: 1988 Red VW Fox Sedan!
Thanks, readerr0r. Exactly I was hoping for.
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2011 Polo GTI | Black | 5 doors | Comfort pack | Audio pack | 9w7 Bluetooth | Xenons - a Return to VW!
Previous ride: 2008 Mazda2 - ZOOM-ZOOM indeed!
1st Ride: 1988 Red VW Fox Sedan!
I highly doubt it's an entire engine irrespective of what the service staff tell you. For the repair of an oil-burner the billing code as well as the order codes point to the "new engine" just being the basic bones of the engine. Otherwise registration details etc all have to be changed as well at you local roads authority. It's a new basic engine, consisting of block, pistons, head, valves etc. just the basic mechanicals, nothing else.
Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.
Oh, something else to add, the cave motor is still going in gti's...
Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.
My dealer said new base engine for mine in a few weeks, when they showed me the order it was all from within Australia and a reasonable list of parts, so I don't expect a whole new engine(nor would I, most of the parts work fine). Just have to hope it all gets put together properly at the dealer...not that the factory has made a big difference
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So what does everyone think about compression rates?
Can someone explain to me how that effects the oil usage - each time you take the dipstick out while the cars running there's a distinct hiss which might indicate something?
Correct me if I'm wrong
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Last edited by 6316; 25-02-2014 at 09:16 AM.
Your cylinder compression isn't related to the hissing you hear if you remove the dipstick or oil cap while the engine is running.
Worn or poorly designed piston rings will be the main cause for poor compression in the cylinders - which in turn will allow oil to be burnt while the engine is running and loss of power.
Anyone with a oil burner tested their compression on cylinders?
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