Polo 6C - IS20 vs G25 (GT2260S)

[millsy]

Hey all, looking to add a bit more spice to my currently stage 1 Manual GTI.

I had initially hoped to see if it was possible to go the IS20 without upgraded DP route that I saw APR have on their website, but the tuner also suggested I consider the G25 (VW/Audi 2.0 TFSI Garrett PowerMax™ Stage 1 Bolt-On (2014 - 201 GT2260S - Turbotech QLD). The tuner did advise however they were not sure if there was a tune for IS20 without DP for my specific platform (if anybody around Brisbane could help me read some ECU information that'd be greatly appreciated! Happy to trade some beer for this!)

Comparing the options, the IS20 seems a bit better suited to the 1.8L engine and has boost available at more typical cruising RPM's, where the G25 offers much nicer performance, but this comes at the expense of being a bit less responsive.
Price wise the IS20 route seemed to be hard to beat, assuming an IS20 tune without a downpipe was available, which is not a guarantee. I just didn't see the point of spending all that money on the DP when comparing maps that APR showed!

Has anybody here looked at similar? Have I lost my mind even considering this? Thanks!

[Lucas_R]

You cant really compare the IS20 to the Stage 1 Garrett Powermax. The Garrett is better compared to the larger IS38 (is said to flow up to 15% more than the IS38 from memory).

The IS20 is a great upgrade for the Polo GTI with the 1.8T. If you look on Tarmac Engineering's facebook page they did one just a few weeks ago with great results. You could always run the stock downpipe but would definitely recommend getting an upgraded downpipe with less restrictive catalytic converters, otherwise you wont get the full benefit of the turbo/tune and will have higher than ideal cylinder temps (not good) due to the more restrictive downpipe and the hot gasses not being able to escape quickly out of the exhaust.

I wouldn't touch the new turbo & tune package that APR offers. No way I would upgrade the turbo and keep the factory downpipe. Look how laggy it comes on boost and also the cylinder temps would be high. No thanks - move to a different tuner. Speaking of tuners, seeing you are in QLD - go see Tarmac Engineering.

Also, seeing your car is a manual you will have to budget a new clutch in your near future if you go for a bigger turbo as it will start to slip.

[Sharkie]

Go see Guy at Harding Performance (Harding Performance - Online Store), the best out there and winner of Motor's Hot Tuner shootouts many times. He has done many 1.8TSI upgrades, including 6C Polo GTIs. They even have the clutch you will need to go the distance.

[millsy]

Thanks for the input both, much appreciated!

[bullsta]

I'm Stage 1 6C manual APR also mate and my clutch couldn't even handle Stage 1.
You still on OEM clutch?

[millsy]

I'm Stage 1 6C manual APR also mate and my clutch couldn't even handle Stage 1.
You still on OEM clutch?

I am, it was slipping if I pulled in higher gears, it stopped now but I assume that'll be temporary

Had a chat with tarmac, liked the bloke I spoke to, have to see if finances line up or I end up with a different car first!

Unfortunately I've got an odd issue currently where the thermofans stay on max and continue running after the car stops - not due to overheating as temps are fine. Gotta find which sensor/relay is borked.

[Lucas_R]

I am, it was slipping if I pulled in higher gears, it stopped now but I assume that'll be temporary

Had a chat with tarmac, liked the bloke I spoke to, have to see if finances line up or I end up with a different car first!

Unfortunately I've got an odd issue currently where the thermofans stay on max and continue running after the car stops - not due to overheating as temps are fine. Gotta find which sensor/relay is borked.

Might be as simple as a faulty coolant temp sensor. Have you scanned the error codes to see what comes up?

[millsy]

Might be as simple as a faulty coolant temp sensor. Have you scanned the error codes to see what comes up?

Don't have a tool to do so currently unfortunately, had to drop it off at the mechanic anyway and in short they had no idea, couldn't find any weird error codes.

If there's any resources you can point me towards that detail how the cooling system electronics works a bit more that'd be awesome! The water temperature reported by the ECU with a basic OBD reader is fine, seems more like whatever tells the thermofans to turn on is broken, be it a sensor or a relay