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Thread: New Polo problems - Register

  1. #1471
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barracuda View Post
    Sure! Next time it does it, I'll try and tape my phone to the bonnet or something and make a video with picture... I had the phone taped to the battery in the engine bay for this video - that's why it sounds like a diesel with no muffler! Haha. The turbo sounds cool up close, though!

    Like you, I always look after the clutches and I never creep on them, but this problem has just started to happen within the last few months.

    I called a mate of mine who works at another dealership in Sydney (also owns a Polo GTI himself) and he said that he had the exact same issue that I had in this video and that it is a 'known fault'. Long story short, he is going to arrange for the clutches to be replaced and apparently that fixes the issue for good (hopefully).

    It's a start.
    Ha! if only your friend could hook me up with the clutch to fix my clacking / crunching sounds too >.<

  2. #1472
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hail22 View Post
    Ha! if only your friend could hook me up with the clutch to fix my clacking / crunching sounds too >.<
    I'll ask about the issue and what their policy is. Unlike NS Volkswagen, they may be more willing to fix the issue as they actually admit there is a widespread issue. It's just Denlo Parramatta so it isn't too far away.

  3. #1473
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barracuda View Post
    I'll ask about the issue and what their policy is. Unlike NS Volkswagen, they may be more willing to fix the issue as they actually admit there is a widespread issue. It's just Denlo Parramatta so it isn't too far away.
    HA! Denlo and NS are both owned by Inchcape automotive...

  4. #1474
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    Re: New Polo problems - Register

    Quote Originally Posted by Zakarados View Post
    I am getting a similar issue, I don't remember this happening previously (my gf says it has always happened), but when I cold start my Polo GTi, the revs vary a lot, from around 500rpm to 1100rpm, when the RPM is low, it almost feels like the car is going to stall. Once the engine is warm, the RPM is fine.
    My revs are stable, they dont change at all with the shaking
    Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk 2
    Last edited by muli; 13-08-2013 at 01:01 PM.

  5. #1475
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hail22 View Post
    HA! Denlo and NS are both owned by Inchcape automotive...
    I know, but it helps knowing someone from at least one of them!

  6. #1476
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barracuda View Post
    I know, but it helps knowing someone from at least one of them!
    Lol Indeed, let me know how it goes anyways perhaps he can do the test drive with you so at least it can be rectified asap...

  7. #1477
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    Quote Originally Posted by muli View Post
    What the noise or the shaking?
    Both. It sounds like the chain tensioner is in need of replacing but just make sure you're not just mistaking it for the ticking of the injectors, it's hard to actually work out what is supposedly wrong in the video being referenced.

    I don't know what to make of this post. Does knowing what causes it actually fix the problem? Or are you suggesting that it is normal for a car to do this?
    On really cold mornings, it is normal. As nomad said, it is to get the cat and the Oxygen sensors etc all warmed up to where they should be for optimum operating efficiency. You will notice in stinking hot conditions, it won't happen as much, if at all. The voltage of the number 1 o2 sensor sits at 0.045v while doing this and will stay there untill up to the proper operating temp, irrespective of if you're driving or idling.

    muli, if this is the shaking you are talking about, don't bother going to the dealership because it's normal.

    Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.

  8. #1478
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hail22 View Post
    Lol Indeed, let me know how it goes anyways perhaps he can do the test drive with you so at least it can be rectified asap...
    Yeah, exactly. I'll let you know the end result. At this stage, it looks as if both of the clutches will be replaced.

  9. #1479
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    Well I think I got a lemon.
    - Have been experiencing a shudder and had the clutches replace about 6 months ago.
    - Then I had a rattle - turned out to be fuel lines hitting together - while in the dealership getting the rattle looked at, the mechanic 'heard a noise' and he thought the timing belt was slipping so they kept my car in for 4 days - and then said there was no problems.
    - My indicator goes crazy every now and again and will go double time with a light warning - if I turn the car off and back on it sorts the problem, have been back to the dealer numerous times about this with no solution.

    But .... today would have to take the cake.... on the way to drop someone off at the airport my dash glowed like a christmas tree and had a horrible shudder and sounded like it was missing. Warning lights were - Engine oil pressure too low, ESP fault, EPC fault and tyre pressure too low.

    My saving grace is that it's still under warranty so I call VW roadside assist and they organised RACQ who said I had ' a serious problem and it would need to be towed' and then they organised a tow truck.

    So much for wheels car of the year...

    Last edited by sarah3; 18-08-2013 at 07:21 PM.

  10. #1480
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    Not good to hear but it doesn't sound that serious.

    Clutch shudder - well everybody knows about this, usually the replacement clutch kit works pretty good.

    The fuel line rattle - again for TSI's this is a well known problem and an easy fix (just have to swap the position of the fuel and vapor return lines around and its fixed). Unfortunately to get the dealers to do this involves them using their brain...do I need say more?

    Timing belt slipping...all I can say is umm LOL. If the d**kheads at the dealer knew what they were talking about they would know that its a CHAIN DRIVEN camshaft and thus can NEVER slip. It's either broken(snapped or stretched) or its not. If it was broken the engine would be a write off as the valves would have hit the pistons and everything would be stuffed from top to bottom. God damn these VW dealers talk soooo much s**t!!!

    Your indicators. Personally I would just go around the car and unplug and replug all the connectors - taking the indicator bulbs out and looking for any corrosion/dust etc. the way the electronic module works is that if it detects an open circuit for any of the indicators it will display a warning light and the indicators inside the car will flash at double the speed. If you look outside the car the lights flash at a normal rate. It does this to let you know that a bulb is out and to look at the indicators. A easy fix nether the less.

    On to your last problem it's not as serious as you might think. The way the computer handles engine faults is quite stupid in my opinion.

    When a engine fault is detected the EPC light will always come on. When the EPC module (engine component of the computer) has a fault condition flagged the ABS module is automatically disabled. This means the ABS, ESP, brake assist, tyre pressure system, traction control and anything else running of this module is disabled (except hill assist from what I can tell) the reason for this is because the two system work hand in hand.

    Take the traction control system. If the ABS module detects wheel slip it will tell the Engine module to reduce power - at which point the engine can force a gear change up or just cut fuel. as the engine has a fault and is limp home mode it cannot to this so the system is disabled.

    Also when the EPC light is triggered the engine goes into limp home mode which makes the engine retarded and won't let it rev - at all for protection. As a result the DSG struggles majorly to change gears because it relies on very accurate timing to cut the ignition (amongst other things) for a brief second to change. This is why it feels like its missing, it technically is - its missing its brains.

    So that leaves you with one actual problem. Oil light - now chances are you have just gotten a faulty oil pressure sensor (which i have read a few people having) and it says your oil pressure cannot be read. This will throw up a major fault. If you have run out of oil, only the oil light would pop up and the car would drive like normal. There is a possibility that the oil pump is bad but extremely
    highly unlikely considering it runs of the crank and is mechanical.

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