Ok the chirp isn't that annoying at this stage it is not all the time so I will give it more time to see if it either resolves or gets worse.
Yep, the chirp only affects the GTI model. It happens when the friction material of the supercharger clutch slips. I have been able to make it chirp really short and sharp and also a bit more drawn out. By saying drawn out, I mean for around 0.6 secs. It generally only happens when the engine is turning over at low rpm in a specific gear and you put your foot down a bit, not enough to drop down a gear if you're in D, but enough to get the supercharger to engage.
Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.
If only we could generate enough hot gas to attain this sound while down shifting love blown diffusers! instead of silly exhaust sounds pfft
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmGgv...eature=related
Have to say i was reading a bit further down in this thread and i noticed that people were pushing the engine really hard in its infancy to get it run in?
I have to say being in the engineering world with my job etc i have NEVER heard of any engine getting run hard in its first few 1000km's. In my opinion the engine should have an easy time for the first few 1000km's. But to be fair i haven't had a Volkswagen before. interested in hearing why it is good to run the engines hard? At the moment im in the belief that you will be much closer to ruining valves and blowing a head gasket.
Regards,
Harry
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
This is what it's based on
MY16 Octavia RS 162 Race Blue Combi
MY12 Skoda Octavia RS 147 Black Combi - Sold
im skeptical.....you don't get anywhere near the rpm a bike gets....hmmm....will have to consult some fellow engineers!
I've spoken with a few engineers in the office who either still work or have worked in different race categories around the world and they all say the same thing. To break in an engine softly goes hand in hand with the theory of running mineral oil for the first 2000 kms and then doing an oil change because of such poor manufacturing tolerances. The only reason to run in an engine softly is because of how poorly the engine was manufactured in the first place. With modern, higher compression and better manufactured engines, you are more likely to polish the bores by running in the engine softly. An old friend of mine specialises in building and ultimately tuning heavily moddified japanese motors, ie supra engines outputting in excess of 500-600kw of power and I've seen how they run these custom built, $20k+ engines (in parts alone sometimes) on a dyno and there is no easy running whatsoever.
In my mind, there is no logical sense to run in an engine softly. I have used 250ml of oil in 10,000kms and I loaded up the engine so to me, it looks to have worked.
Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.
I agree, I have followed the procedure in Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power for two cars (Astra 2.2 and Polo GTI 1,and two bikes (Zx6R and GSXR750) and all have run beautifully will very little oil usage between services. It's not really about revving the tits off them, rather loading the engine (both on throttle and more importantly off throttle).
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