I'll be ordering through Greg, he is a forum sponser too. Will wait for GTI JOE and see if he also wants in...
There is a simple way to prevent this - you put a large ball bearing in the hole, with solid backing for the rotor, and belt it with a hammer to peen the edges of the hole (repeat for each hole and on both sides). The compression of the material greatly reduces the tendency to crack from the thermal expansion and compression cycles. Obviously, you can't to this to the interior of a ventilated rotor but the heat is greatest at the pad surfaces.
I never had cracks with my racing disc rotors when prepped this way.
tech info about crack propagation and the peening technique from Engineer To Win - Carrol Smith (RIP)
Maybe that's true now and if you can afford carbon ceramic brakes (and put up with the poor cold performance and noise) but for cast iron rotors, slotting and crossdrilling not only reduce the "trapped air" effect (which I agree is negligible) and help cooling but also helps the pad dust clear while braking. All this is really only relevent at racing speeds.
Last edited by kaanage; 03-03-2011 at 10:44 PM. Reason: clarity of info source
I'll be ordering through Greg, he is a forum sponser too. Will wait for GTI JOE and see if he also wants in...
Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.
Also note that larger rotors => greater rotating and unsprung mass (unless going for a carbon/ceramic setup which is $$$$).
This is why the Top Gear experiment with bigger brakes on the people mover made it lap slower.
Exactly, another good point kaanageWhat you posted by Carrol Smith is right too, but how many people can afford the rotors that are of the correct steel grade for this to work, I can see so many people going out to their cars now, fitted with the cheap DBA drilled discs and shattereing the discs doing this!
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Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.
Steel and cast iron rotors are stronger than that!! Otherwise, they'd shatter from braking stresses if drilled or grooved.
The one disc that I had which hadn't been peened as described (the holes were chamfered, though) was no problem for me to do - it just took a bit of time and was pretty noisy, even using a sand bag to back the rotor. The other rotors that I bought had all been peened but I did buy them from race suppliers, not normal aftermarket sources.
Last edited by kaanage; 04-03-2011 at 09:40 AM. Reason: braking , not breaking
I get a **** load of brake dust on the front wheels.
2020 VW Golf R
In case anyone else want's it for reference.... From Go Auto...
Brakes are discs all round – 288mm vented up front and 232mm solid items out back – assisted by ABS with EBD and brake assist, along with the ESC, traction control and electronic limited slip differential devices.
Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.
Another bit of info RE brake fluid Boiling Temps, best ot top, generic at bottom: (Info from another site courtesy of Greg at GSL Rallysport)
Martini GS610 Race Fluid
Dry - Min 330
Wet - Min 214
Castrol SRF (Not really viable at $165 per Litre!!)
Dry - 310
Wet - 270
TRW GP600 Dot 4 Racing Brake Fluid ($65 per Litre yet same dry boil as Castrol SRF)
Dry - Min 310
Wet - Min 204
Motul Dot 5.1
Dry - 270
Wet - 185
Castrol Response Super Dot 4
Dry - 286
Wet - 184
Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.
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