It will make little or no difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by osman
You just need to use less throttle to start off and then feed more throttle in as your are moving. Like any auto, sudden large changes in throttle confuse the heck out of them.
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It will make little or no difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by osman
You just need to use less throttle to start off and then feed more throttle in as your are moving. Like any auto, sudden large changes in throttle confuse the heck out of them.
How to break in your tyres: Tire Tech Information - Breaking In Your TiresQuote:
Originally Posted by osman
This advice also applies to brand new cars with less than 500 km to 1000 km.
Contrary to popular belief, a vehicle's stability or traction control system, although very effective in assisting the driver, does not make the vehicle immune to the laws of physics, so you can only rely on it up to a certain point, as it can only do so much. Vehicle control (or loss thereof - accidental or otherwise) is ultimately the responsibility of the driver.
Quote:
Originally Posted by osman
Anyone can simply mash the throttle and spin up the tyres, if the vehicle is capable of doing so.Quote:
Originally Posted by osman
The Polo GTI is such a vehicle, and is hardly unique in this aspect.
As with any performance car, you need to readjust or learn how to regulate the throttle input in a more precise manner.
Have fun.
It would be better to re-evaluate the tyres after they've covered some distance, as per Tire Rack's advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by osman
interesting read this mate
Actually wider tyres will not help unless the rubber compound has a higher coefficient of friction.Quote:
Originally Posted by lunchboxGTI
You can have two tyres on each end of the same axle where one is wide and the other narrow. As long as they both have the same rubber compound, you will find that both will provide the same resistance to slipping. Why racing tyres are wider is because they are made of a softer (partially cured) rubber compound, and the width is to reduce the amount of wear. This is all what F1 is on about now.
The equation of friction is F = uN where F is the force that can be generated between the two surfaces, u is a non-dimensional coefficient of friction, and N is the force normal to the friction surfaces. The trick is to keep the force to a level so that the torque from the engine does not exceed the friction between the tyre and road surface.
Some cars will not break traction because for various reasons the force generated is always less than the friction force.
You can get "better quality" tyres, however to get a higher coefficient of friction, the compound will generally wear more easily and so have a shorter service life.
Everything is a trade off. That is why I suggested not pressing the accelerator as far. Just as you have a bite point with a clutch, you also have a bite point with the tyres as well. You need to feel for that and you are then getting the maximum accelerating force you can.
God i hate physics at uni currently, but it has so many good uses!Quote:
Originally Posted by wai
Nice explanation wai, clearer than most 90 year old lecturers lol
I'm surprised you didn't find out how easy it was to spin the tyres on your test drive.
Get these and see if you still have wheelspin
http://tuning-parts.ru/published/pub.../Toyo-R888.jpg
Toyo R888
One of the sad things is that you struggle through uni with all the information you are bombarded with, and then you start working and applying things and it strikes you. That is what they meant!!! Life would have been so much simpler if it came to you when they were teaching you :-).Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuggos
I find I get much better launches with tc off. It cuts in with minimum wheel spin when its on and cuts power. With it off you get a little slip but it usually grabs pretty quick. Different story when tuned though ha.
What are you doing anyway, robbing a bank?Quote:
Originally Posted by osman