I assume he drained the oil when he serviced it.
Did he put any oil in it?
It's seriously a common issue, and it's not always dependant on service history, and doesn't always give a check engine light before it lets go.
I did an engine in a mk6 gti last week cost a bomb and it was only a few thousand km after the guy spent over 5k getting the dsg gearbox rebuilt.
Car was always serviced on time, no signs at all, just unlucky that everything packed it in.
Usually with the tensioners, you'll hear the chain rattling for a long time after start up. This is a sign that you're about to cop it.
A lot of owners don't even notice different/terrible sounds.
Still if it was noisy after servicing and you had a good mechanic he/she would have told you that the engine needed preventative maintenance.
If you get the engine series code like "CAVE" off the sticker in your service book or boot, you can get on eBay or gumtree or start calling euro wreckers and try find the cheapest running engine.
Probably throw a new chain and tensioner on it, unless you are selling immediately, wack it in and start over.
It sucks hard, feel sorry for you
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Last edited by Transporter; 15-05-2017 at 08:32 PM.
Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
A design that needs full oil pressure to force out the tensioner on start up/after an oil change sounds a bit how you going. Can you run a grade lighter on cold temp oil to counter it? They make a manual tensioner for the 1.8T 20V - if I had one of these engines and the problems with the chain tensioners were this bad I'd be looking into some kind of manual tensioner solution. Or can the oil gallery to the tensioner be modded to help?
There is an upgraded tensioner with a racheting mechanism that stops the tensioner from bleeding down after shut-off.
'07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
'01 Beetle 2.0
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