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Thread: GTI Running in tips - Post rebuild

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexaescht View Post
    That's a bit hard with a DSG isn't it? You can't just chuck it in neutral.
    use the brake pedal

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by amazeer View Post
    use the brake pedal
    Yeah but it still does down changes by itself which is similar to pure engine braking.
    Alex Aescht

    MY13 Dark Silver VW up! 5-door 55MPI manual — Comfort Style Pack, Comfort Drive Pack, Maps + More, Panoramic Sunroof
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  3. #13
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    Oct 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zakarados View Post
    Drive it how you want to drive it. Everyone follows different ways and they all drink engine oil like no tomorrow anyway. I just drove my car after rebuild like normal (like I did when new) and it has burnt 500mL in 7000km. It was drinking 7L per 7000km before rebuild. Looks like the engine rebuild worked.
    This is good to hear.
    My car was a demo so I didn't do the initial 2,500km so wont have a direct comparison. But its good to hear that the rebuild can be effective.

    Sent from my GT-I9197 using Tapatalk

  4. #14
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    Why not use the engine revs for braking?
    The Motoman run-in method encourages it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #15
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    I think the best thing I did for my car when I ran it in was to disregard the existance of 5th & 6th gear for the first 1000km (week1) and disregarded 6th for another 1000km (week 2 & 3).

    I drove it so that I could keep up with the rest of the traffic. I changed gears at that point where you could feel the engine doesn't want to spin freely anymore - that point started out at about 2500rpm but every 50km or so it went a bit higher.

    I did lots of throttle over-run & plenty of moderate half-throttle acceleration out of corners & up hills.

    The engine sealed up tighter than a fishe's bum.
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    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  6. #16
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    ^ good point Brad about 5th and 6th gear.

    The worst thing you could do in the Polo GTI is let it labour around in 6th or 7th gear at 60kph at very low revs....not good for an engine full stop, let alone a freshly rebuilt one. Use the paddles on your steering wheel / manual mode and keep the engine in a higher RPM range as much as you can. Load it up (up hills etc) to seal the piston rings, and vary the revs as much as you can (eg don't sit on a freeway for hours on end at 2,500rpm).

    IF you do have to drive on the freeway, then at least drop the car back a gear or two, raise the revs and vary your speed a bit. If you slow down (traffic dependant of course) to about 70-80kph and then give the throttle a nice squeeze back up to 110kph then that would be good too. No need to rev the freckle out of it, but use the revs.
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dening View Post
    Hi All,

    So my GTI is in right now getting it's rebuild to sort the oil consumption, this is a rebuild they are calling "base engine" replacement from what I have been told.

    Just wondering if anyone who has had this done can tell me what running in method might have been successful for them following this fix?

    I know it's still a bit hit and miss with these things, but I was thinking I'll just to drive relatively easily in manual, varying revs and let the engine warm up before giving it any real load.

    Thanks in any advance for any help.
    Did the dealership replace a new lower block or they rebuild the engine? If rebuild, did they rehone the cylinder walls?If they did, what stone grit did they use? IF replace a factory lower block then less worries and just drive up a mountain varying the rpm between the gears in M mode. Use engine brake to cruise down the mountain and finally straight to a workshop to replace the engine oil and filter out with OEM oil or Mobil 1 5w30ESP(my personal recommendation).

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinctr View Post
    Did the dealership replace a new lower block or they rebuild the engine? If rebuild, did they rehone the cylinder walls?If they did, what stone grit did they use? IF replace a factory lower block then less worries and just drive up a mountain varying the rpm between the gears in M mode. Use engine brake to cruise down the mountain and finally straight to a workshop to replace the engine oil and filter out with OEM oil or Mobil 1 5w30ESP(my personal recommendation).
    Why you're asking? I'm sure they've done it properly.

  9. #19
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    Jul 2012
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    Sinagra, Western Australia
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    You can't hone bores on late model VW's as they have a silicon compound coating the sleeve. Honing the bore ruins the coating and kills the engine.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    South Australia
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    Thread Starter

    It was complete base engine replacement, so have been doing a variety of driving to load the engine up a little and not using automatic to get some varying revs.

    I've done a few hundred kms now so I'm just going to drive how I want, I really doubt I'm going to make a huge difference now. If they've fixed it they've fixed it, if not they can do it again.

    Sent from my GT-I9197 using Tapatalk

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