Golf pop out badge RVC into Polo 6R

[JonW]

Ok, am working on this install now... only stumbling block is I dont know which are the power and earth cables at the head unit, anyone care to comment?

[staz88]

Power - Pin 16 - red/yellow
Ground - Pin 12 - brown

[JonW]

I ran the RVC loom today... wow those trim clips are a nightmare, sigh. Even with proper tools they often rip out of the plastic and need to be retrieved from the bodywork before you refit the part.

In the spirit of good forum practice, here are some pics...

The clips on the trim round the head unit... I reckon if you snap them you might be able to re-plastic-weld them, but go slow and careful with a proper plastic type trim tool and you should be fine



Head unit pulled out, resting on a folded up sheet to shop its sharp edges scratching the AC unit.



Looms drops down the left hand corner no hassle. I fed it up into the cavity and left it long enough to be usable as I didnt connect the red/black yet as I dont yet know which wires to slice them in to.

The sill trim, loom runs along next to main loom, under this steel - note steel trim clip remaining in body, you too will enjoy this experience when you do this. I pulled these with trim clip pliers, which are not in any of the pics sadly, but circa $20 on ebay i think.



The underside of the sill plastic trim (kick panel 'pocket' panel in background)



In a 3door you need to pull this panel out... not fun... the main loom runs under that speaker. you could run it with a fish I guess... I didn't, and I don't know why.



This panel in the boot needs to come off... undo the bolts on the bracket on the RHS and also under the trim between this and the rear speaker (under the trim panel in the passenger compartment)



No need to remove... just open sesame!



To pull the cable up... I did as staz said. I snipped the yellow/red and black wires down the loom a bit, but I left the coax for the camera, I just dislike not having coax cables 'perfect' and I believed it would 'thread' so long as I was careful. Coathanger used to run down from the hatch rubber to the light well, i.e. following the hatch loom.



Piece of stiff wire run down (as seen with boot lid open) from the inside of the hatch by the wiper motor used to pull cables thru.



To ensure they didnt pull out I put a small bend/foot on the fish wire (but not on the coathanger as in this pic). You should be able to gently pull up from the light cavity up to the side of the car to the top.



Pull through from the bottom up, and then start to head into the rubber connecting hose by threading through the plastic edge part as it is loose... dont do this loop (ahem!)



The rubber hose is a nightmare... I used a squirt of 2 or Armor all to help ease it through, but it took some time and effort. Dont rush this, if you rip that rubber hose your car body will not be water proof anymore.

With the cable now thorugh and into the hatch, reconnect the 3 wires you snipped off (to get the plugs off to allow the loom to feed). Seen here is the reconnected (soldered and shrink wrapped wires, and then re-wrapped with some of the VW cloth tape from the RVC loom that i pulled back when I snipped the wires) hanging down from the hatch, so the lower end is the one with the plugs on it. (Amusingly it's not easy to explain some of this as with the hatch open the stuff in the hatch is upside down - as per Staz's pic with the plug info)




So that's where I am right now. I need to work out (or find out) a good source of switched +12v and an earth (there was one by the tail light I could have used of course but I wanted to do it by the radio like Staz did, hmm) (seen Staz has left me details whilst Ive been formatting this post, cheers m8!)

Staz's estimate of a steady 5hours is bang on I reckon. The last bit with the bracket and camera looks easy compared to the effort of the trim and threading the loom through all the small gaps!

[JonW]

Ok, last parts done....

When doing stuff like this I always connect the +12v last as I feel it's safer that way, as nothing is live until the end if youve not connected the battery, or don't finish the job and need to use the car etc.

I decided to wire the earth to one of the earth points at the rear light as I felt there was no sense in messing with the head unit cables more than I had to, plus there are two nice easily accessible points right there. I snipped off the end from the RVC loom and added that to the snipped black wire at the same point as where I connected the rear light (yellow wire).




I drilled out the bracket holes one size larger just to be sure and then sanded and painted the bracket with some grey paint I had lying around to protect it from any rust, its galvanised but the cut edges are not, plus it looks more 'factory' painted i think.

Following the existing pics in this thread you can easily dismantle the old and fit the new and neaten up the wiring, the first set of pics takes you thru that easily.

One thing I would say that I forgot earlier is that you should be careful prizing the hatch trim off, it will come off and fall down on the ground if you let it... have a helper handy to catch it if you can.

I found that along with the two locating tabs to be removed there was also this 'stick'. snip with the side cutters and its done.



Fitting the bracket - remember the screw holes on the bracket dont line up with the holes on the badge, they fit the hatch. Amusing to watch someone try and get the holes to line up... that why helpers are needed



All fitted and connections made and tidied up.






FWIW I marked the outside of the bodywork where the old badge lined up with whiteboard marker, it did help and wipes off easily.



Amusing... At this point I shut the hatch... and it wouldn't open! Of course I immediately realised it was because there is no power yet to this loom, so no power as yet to the latch. But it might freak you out if you dont realise how the power flows...

Wiring up the +12v was interesting. The HU connector has 2x red/yellow. I picked the smaller one on pin 16 and found it was un-switched when checked with a meter, which I can see is needed as this power also feeds the boot latch, as you may want to open the boot latch with the key in your pocket, not in the ignition and switched on etc.

Paring back a small amount of wire and soldering on the red wire from the camera loom was easy enough, the worst part was getting the plugs back into the head unit I reckon, fiddly...

Switched ignition on to first position and selected R ('race mode'! For those who remember that SA radio wind up call?), got out and checked, yep I have a camera pointing out the badge. superb.

Just need to have it coded now, and I will be dropping round to see Staz on Sunday for that, cheers in advance for that m8!

[staz88]

Good stuff Jon! Glad you have it all working so far.
See you Sunday, we'll get a picture on your screen.

[JonW]

Huge Kudos to Staz for his help today in working through a few things on my VCDS, including (the very simple) getting the RVC to work on my RCD510, cheers mate!

In discussion today we both agree this is 5hours and $500 well spent if you fancy an RVC, thanks also to lunchbox for the brackets!

We also tested the size of the 'square' on the screen and reckon its Golf sized, so is probably part of the lens, not the software that comes with the Polo.

[Proximak]

Did you guys end up figuring out how to disable the DRL's or just give up?

[staz88]

Did you guys end up figuring out how to disable the DRL's or just give up?

Lol, gave up. More googling required.

[readerr0r]

Lol, gave up. More googling required.

It's easy guys

If you have Xenons


Try it if you have halogens, if it doesn't work take out the pin marked TFL on the light switch.

"Removal of headlight switch

In the OFF ("0") position, press the headlight switch knob IN. It will recess into the switch body below the level of the surrounding ring. Keeping the knob pressed in, turn the switch knob to the vertical position.

Now, PULL the switch towards you straight out and the entire switch should disengage from the dash. It should pull out just enough for you to have room to unplug the large 17 pin electrical connector attached to the rear of the switch."

[JonW]

My mind is muddled with all the combinations that we tried. We ended up with some very strange things happening; rear lights always on anyone?! LOL

Cheers ReadErr0r... I dont have xenons, hence why i want to disable the rubbish VW solution to DRLs for cars like mine. I'm hoping not to have to pull the pin, but if needs must then I guess that's my final resort.

Thanks once again to Staz for his help with my lights today, I know that there is some good German logic to these cars and their systems, but two (three for a while, until one saw sense and went home LOL!) clever blokes with a computer were stumped by these lights today.