I'm sure gavs can play helper here.
Hi all,
Would anyone be able to a) provide a link to some better pads (front) for the Polo, and b) tell me whether I could install them straight without machining the disks? I've done about 7k on the current ones, and they're fine, but I want something inexpensive with more bite...
Cheers!
I'm sure gavs can play helper here.
I put Remsa pads (sourced through GSL Rallysports in QLD) in my Golf R when it only had 400km on it. The pads are made in Spain, rated to 650 degrees and came very highly recommended from GSL Rallysports. My main reason for changing the pads was to reduce the vast amount of brake dust put out by the factory pads. In the 400km i drove my car with the stock brake pads, i had to clean the wheels 3 times!!
I also fitted a set of these Remsa pads to my friends Mk5 GTI.
The pads are great. I've now done 6,000km on mine and my friend has done about 12,000-15,000km on his without dramas. I didn't machine my disks as my car had only travelled 400km, but we did get the disks machined on my friends GTI as they had done 50,000km.
Only cost just over $200 for the pads so they are well priced.
See link here for more info on my brake pad change >> DIY - changing/upgrading the brake pads on Golf R
And a link here to the brake pad company in Spain >> Remsa
With your car having travelled 7,000km it would be best to get the disks machined (always should machine the disks when changing pads). Only reason i didn't with my car was the measly 400km it had travelled - but i probably should have done it.
Last edited by Lucas_R; 06-01-2012 at 10:38 AM.
I have the remsa pads in my GTI and compared to stock it's like chalk and cheese.
I had done 1000kms on the car when I did the change so I didn't worry about getting the discs machined and contrary to Lucas (sorry mate, not trying to be a p**ck or anything ) even with 7000kms on the car, if your rotors are already warped to the point of needing a lick with the machine, I think you have greater problems. To ensure any residue from the original pads is gone, don't do a full on bed in for a couple of weeks, that will ensure that the new pads wipe away any residue and start to seat against the disc better. then, do your proper bed-in.
The remsa's dust "clumps" together more than just making things dusty so it's easier to clean off which is good.
With a bit of heat in them is how I have found these ads to work at their best, in really cold weather, they needed a touch of heat to make sure they work at their optimal performance. Other than that, I cannot fault.
Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.
Remsa, $114 for the set including the wear sensor.
Provided your rotors aren't showing any obvious signs of needing it, then no, just run them as is. Typically we recommend machining or replacing when you're switching between two very different styles of pads, but Remsa are a similar style of compound to OEM so it won't be a problem.tell me whether I could install them straight without machining the disks? I've done about 7k on the current ones
Any questions at all just give us a bell on 1300 884 836.
Regards,
Greg
Last edited by gslrallysport; 16-05-2012 at 11:08 AM.
GSL RallySport 1300 884 836
Sick of paying too much for performance brake pads? Want high performance with low rotor wear?
QFM Performance Pads
And finally, what extra equipment would I need to install other than the normal stuff one would have in the garage (I think the guide lucas R linked to needed a piston compressor?)
---------- Post added at 04:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:08 PM ----------
Oh and most importantly, Thankyou All =D
The machining mentioned by Lucas (and Greg) is to help the bed in process with the new pads else the old pad material deposited on to the rotor delays the new material from being deposited properly on to the rotor (hence your advice about taking a couple of weeks of light wear before trying to bed in properly).
But Greg has already mentioned that the Remsa pad is similar enough to the OEM for this not to be a problem.
Nicholas, you will need something to compress the front pistons (easy) but the rear pistons need to be rotated as well as compressed. Some people have done the rears with needle-nose pliers while others have needed the proper piston compressor tool.
Resident grumpy old fart
VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS
Looks like i may be upgrading my pads with a set of Remsa's waiting on GSL to get back to me
G'day Guys
Can someone please confirm the part number for the Remas front brake pads that you used on your Polo GTI 6R? I am guessing it is 390.41 which is the same as a Golf GTI IV.
2012 Fabia II VRS Estate - APR stage 2 tune, Custom 2.5" turbo back full stainless exhaust with ceramic coated dump pipe, Harding Performance Cold air intake, Wagner Tuning Competition Intercooler, GFB DV+ diverter valve, Braille B2317RP battery, Eibach pro kit springs, Bilstein B8 shocks, Harding Performance F+R ARB, Super Pro bushes, Porsche 986 Boxster S front brake calipers, 330x28mm front rotors, Ferodo DS2500 front pads and Remsa rear pads, Enkei RPF1 17x8 et.35 with 235/40R17 Yokohama AD08R tyres, Maxton front splitter and Superskoda fender flares.
quick question has anyone used EBC Green Stuff on their polo before? i did have EBc redstuff on my previous car (Corolla Sportivo) and they were pretty good. How much will the Remas pad set me back?
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