The vag-navi kit came today. I will try and install it tonight.. Pictures are attached....





I also bought a VAG-COM cable to suit... $440 from HPC performance or whatever they are in Queensland. I could have got one from rosstech directly about $20 cheaper, but i am impatient

Will install tonight and report back but looks easy enough. I am going to go with the factory option and put it under the drivers seat (or at least try) so we will see how it goes.

---------- Post added 29-05-2012 at 10:32 AM ---------- Previous post was 28-05-2012 at 03:16 PM ----------

I dont know who/ if anyone is reading this thread but anyway, installed it last night. Took about 3 hours, would have taken half that if i know now (or thought about it before diving in). Here are some of my thoughts:

1) Dont do what I did and start wiring from the bluetooth unit backward, as you then end up having to snake the large quad block connectors up the dash and into the cage, which was a big PITA. Start at the cage and just run the BT connector end down to where you are storing the BT unit (I put it in the OEM spot under the drivers seat)

2) Removing the seat access panel so you can easily get to where the BT unit / Foam goes requires the removal of 3 torx screws. 2 are threaded, one screws into plastic. 1/4" drive is the way to go here.. can be a little silly, but remove it, its so much easier to get at.

3) Run the cable along the route that is suggested in page 18 of the RNS510 installation, dont follow where the OEM loom goes or you will be pulling seats out , just go around the front of the seat rail and come up through the access hole in the carpet where the factory seat loom comes up.

4) Everything is basically 'reef off' to remove in relation to sill trims and B Pillar trims, but be carefful with the top of the B pillar trim as there are hook hugs that hold the lower B trim into the top B trim. Have alook behind the door rubber and you will see what i mean. Un clip it then just pull it off.

5) The bonnet release trim (bottom A pillar they call it ELSAWIN) is a PITA to get off, I couldnt do it, but you dont really need to, you can just pull out the bit that pressure fits into the carpet where the accelerator pedal is, and once you have the floor sill trim up, you can 'wangle' it out enough to get your cable around enough. If I had a long shank torx bit I could undo it, but i only had the standard torx sockets, which reminds me now that I do have torx keys which would have done the job, but meh... not really needed.

6) when running the microphone wire, as suggested everywhere else, run a thicker wire and use it as a draw cable. I suggest also running the draw wire from the a pillar over to the upper light console rather than the other way around, I could never get at it going the other way