Wheel Alignment

[BLAKROC]

So lowering the rear of the car has no affect on camber & toe of the rear wheels?

To the OP: $100+ isn't OTT if they are doing a proper 4 wheel alignment.

Yeah i thought it might've required a 4 wheel alignment too? But if it's only 2 wheel then fair enough.. Just booked it in for this avo (2 wheel), I'll see what they have to say about it.

Definitely enjoying the improved cornering since the springs have gone on.

[seangti]

Sean, are you able to share, via PM if you like, the recommended place?

PM sent. Jason at Bob Jane Springwood did a top job. knew his stuff and wasn't BSing, suggesting I need castor kits, shims, etc, to get the alignment right.

[BLAKROC]

PM sent. Jason at Bob Jane Springwood did a top job. knew his stuff and wasn't BSing, suggesting I need castor kits, shims, etc, to get the alignment right.

Got the 4 wheel alignment yesterday for $65 from Osborne Park VW (as it's close to work).. Nicer ride on the springs obviously, but if feels like it's pulling left Going to call and see if they can investigate..

Sean was your polo on springs only or springs + shocks? Wondering if i'll need to go down the same path as you did?

[seangti]

Sean was your polo on springs only or springs + shocks? Wondering if i'll need to go down the same path as you did?

it did it on stock springs too, changing springs made no difference whatsoever.

check your alignment, so toe-in and castor to ensure the set-up is square, there's very little camber adjustment, so a degree of difference isn't really an issue (to my understanding), you'll probably find the right can have more camber than the left. On one alignment, I had a 2degree difference on castor from left to right (that's huge), varied from 3degree on left to 5 on the right. That can be rectified by movement to the subframe. Also check the toe is within spec, anything less for 4mm total should be good for tyre wear. One alignment had me at 8.4 mm total toe, which made steering heavy and also knocked on full lock right hand turning.

If that looks right, what tyres you running? I found that my front right tyre was also contributing to it pulling left once I knew the alignment was correct. I still have the factory continentals. Front left was stuffed by 15,000km, front right wasn't even half life. The culprit tyre is now my spare, though will put it on the front left shortly to see if that causes it to pull right...

It was a process of eliminating the variables.

When talking alignments, it's also worth bearing in mind all machines will read marginally different (even when calibrated religiously) and all cars have differing levels of tolerance so my specs will be close, yet different to yours.

[BLAKROC]

it did it on stock springs too, changing springs made no difference whatsoever.

check your alignment, so toe-in and castor to ensure the set-up is square, there's very little camber adjustment, so a degree of difference isn't really an issue (to my understanding), you'll probably find the right can have more camber than the left. On one alignment, I had a 2degree difference on castor from left to right (that's huge), varied from 3degree on left to 5 on the right. That can be rectified by movement to the subframe. Also check the toe is within spec, anything less for 4mm total should be good for tyre wear. One alignment had me at 8.4 mm total toe, which made steering heavy and also knocked on full lock right hand turning.

If that looks right, what tyres you running? I found that my front right tyre was also contributing to it pulling left once I knew the alignment was correct. I still have the factory continentals. Front left was stuffed by 15,000km, front right wasn't even half life. The culprit tyre is now my spare, though will put it on the front left shortly to see if that causes it to pull right...

It was a process of eliminating the variables.

When talking alignments, it's also worth bearing in mind all machines will read marginally different (even when calibrated religiously) and all cars have differing levels of tolerance so my specs will be close, yet different to yours.

Cheers for the info! I'm running on 4 Kuhmo solus atm, had them for about 6 or 7000km (car has done 50000k). The dealer got in touch again and took the car out (service manager) with me, basically it's not as bad as i first thought. It very slightly drifts to the left which could be the tread on the tyre combined with the camber of the roads.
Went to Pedders for a 2nd opinion, they think it's pretty much fine. And think that a camber kit couldn't be fitted with the polo's setup anyway (?), also couldn't source anything that would've been able to do the job in the first place.

So i'll leave it for now and see how it goes, thanks for all the input everyone. V helpful community on this forum!

[brad]

Cheers for the info! I'm running on 4 Kuhmo solus atm, had them for about 6 or 7000km (car has done 50000k). The dealer got in touch again and took the car out (service manager) with me, basically it's not as bad as i first thought. It very slightly drifts to the left which could be the tread on the tyre combined with the camber of the roads.
Went to Pedders for a 2nd opinion, they think it's pretty much fine. And think that a camber kit couldn't be fitted with the polo's setup anyway (?), also couldn't source anything that would've been able to do the job in the first place.

If the tyres are causing the drift (caused by what is known as belt run-out) then you can check by simply swapping the tyre/rim assembly from side to side. If the tyres are a problem then the car will drift the other way or go straight (or sometimes get even worse).

For Australian roads:
castors should be equal or slightly more positive on the LHS.
cambers should be equal or slightly more negative on the LHS. There is a slight amount of "gimme' in the lower mount that allows a small amount of adjustment.
Toe should be zero or up to 2mm out.

[GTIJNR]

When lowering rear wheel toe in can be as much as 4.00 to 4.5 mm each side, plus the weak as pi$$ control arm bushes that toe in & out every where, no aligner can ever give you the prefect setting. So yes its true that you really need kits & shims. How can vw call its a GTI with bushes that flex more than a bushes in a camry is beyond me lol

[VWindahouse]

Yeah I have the whiteline rear shim kit and got my total rear toe down to
+1.2

[Jmac]

PM sent. Jason at Bob Jane Springwood did a top job. knew his stuff and wasn't BSing, suggesting I need castor kits, shims, etc, to get the alignment right.

I took a car to a local wheel and tyre centre too no names mentioned and i presented as someone out of the blue Lamen style. I took a Seat and knew i had upset the camber as i fitted a kit close to the old witness marks but knew it would be out. I watched the so called alignment being done with a 22mm spanner and a 14mm spanner of which i knew could only possibly adjust the toe. Camber takes an 18mm spanner and also normally means the car to be raised to adjust ( i know ive done more than hot dinners at the numerous delears ive worked at) but guess what the alignmment was done in around 15mins. I questioned the camber and asked for a printout and just got fed with BS and i knew that was BS. I would never take one back to a run of the mill tyre and wheel shop, and only did because i was stuck, looking back was fun to watch them try and BS me . My 2c by the way and to be frank when i set up shop i might invest on an aligner and do the things right, and i know itll be right
Again my 2c
Jmac

[GTIJNR]

I took a car to a local wheel and tyre centre too no names mentioned and i presented as someone out of the blue Lamen style. I took a Seat and knew i had upset the camber as i fitted a kit close to the old witness marks but knew it would be out. I watched the so called alignment being done with a 22mm spanner and a 14mm spanner of which i knew could only possibly adjust the toe. Camber takes an 18mm spanner and also normally means the car to be raised to adjust ( i know ive done more than hot dinners at the numerous delears ive worked at) but guess what the alignmment was done in around 15mins. I questioned the camber and asked for a printout and just got fed with BS and i knew that was BS. I would never take one back to a run of the mill tyre and wheel shop, and only did because i was stuck, looking back was fun to watch them try and BS me . My 2c by the way and to be frank when i set up shop i might invest on an aligner and do the things right, and i know itll be right
Again my 2c
Jmac

lol there was an new paper article bout a local tyre shop, this dude 4wd when in for a alignment job a 9am, finished at 9.40. Three week later, he got 3 fines within those 40 mins, cost close to $700 lol. Thas was an expensive wheel alignment. He did win the case at the end in court, the un-name alignment man got sack...