What did you do to your Polo today?

[seangti]

Why did you do the front sway bar??

Took the red car for suspension work the other week and he suggested I swap the front Whiteline swaybar back to the stock one. For a FWD drive, you want a softer front end roll with a firmer rear. If it wasn't a hassle to swap sway bars, and I had the stock one, I'd certainly consider doing that. At the moment, I run the rear firm to account for the front. I have tried different front and rear sway bar settings and it just gets understeer, whichever way I adjust it beyond front soft, rear firm.

[h100vw]

i picked one up from the wreckers for free so i put it in just to see if it would run any different the afr seems to have stayed the same i cant see anychange but seems to be making my car run alot smoother and i get lower readings on my dash now for some reason

The AFR won't change but your fuel trims will have. The ECU has target AFRs in and will alter the injector duration to suit. Look in measuring block 032 to see what its doing now.

By lower readings do you mean l/100. Again due to the lower injector duration, it will be calling lower consumption. My own Polo claims to be doing low 3s most of the time, the injectors I am running are 1.75 times as big as the stock ones.

Gavin

[Eddy]

Why did you do the front sway bar??

Took the red car for suspension work the other week and he suggested I swap the front Whiteline swaybar back to the stock one. For a FWD drive, you want a softer front end roll with a firmer rear. If it wasn't a hassle to swap sway bars, and I had the stock one, I'd certainly consider doing that. At the moment, I run the rear firm to account for the front. I have tried different front and rear sway bar settings and it just gets understeer, whichever way I adjust it beyond front soft, rear firm.

Hoyhoy.

Just my thing Sean, but I disagree the softer front end roll, don't forget that the Pog. has 800kg to the front & 400kg @ the rear.
I have a 24mm FSB compared to stock of 20mm & Whiteline of 22mm.
Ya know the times the Little Blue Girl has achieved.

[seangti]

Hoyhoy.

Just my thing Sean, but I disagree the softer front end roll, don't forget that the Pog. has 800kg to the front & 400kg @ the rear.
I have a 24mm FSB compared to stock of 20mm & Whiteline of 22mm.
Ya know the times the Little Blue Girl has achieved.

Yeah, I agree when matched with a very firm rear end to counter some oversteer and twitchy-ness. I guess it also depends on driving style and weight transfer.

The approach taken with your car is what made me curious about stiffening the front end, though it didn't work for me. I also tried softening the rear sway bar to make driving on the edge a little easier, but that lowered lap times too much. Though for street and when not running the wing, the firm rear makes it quite twitchy for spirited driving, so will soften it.

[sambb]

I think I remembered you running the whiteline toe-in correction kit on your car Sean - is that right? If so it could be that by removing most of the toe in at the back end, you are not able to run the rear end stiff enough to counter the understeer you're getting without then making the rear end twitchy at the limit. Before you soften the front bar which is a pretty committed job I'd maybe try something like that so that you can get more rear roll stiffness into it and offset some of the understeer, but without making it a twitchy and over reactive kind of stiff due to too little rear toe in.
You could also try simply dropping rear ride height to get the COG and roll centre down. Both will introduce more rear end stability and maybe allow you to run slightly stiffer at the rear to try to counteract the front.
Also you could play around with rear compression damping. It depends where you are understeering. If it starts on turn in and you never get the front back you could try more rear compression. Theoretically it loosens the rear of the car on entry to help turn in, will have no effect in steady state/G cornering but can add understeer on exit. The opposite is true for less rear compression damping.

[sambb]

Oh yeah and I wouldn't put the front bar back to stock either unless you were going to uprate the springs to even the ledger. Never know it might work! the car mightn't dive under brakes as much - less front geometry change and less unweighting of the rears might help you get a better turn in?

[seangti]

Yup, it's got the toe correction kit.

There's nothing lacking in my handling (well nothing obvious to me and my needs), it's not understeering in it's current form. My comment was more about why upgrade front sway bar when running H&R springs and standard struts rather than a deficiency in my set-up. For me (H&R coil overs), softening rear sway bar, or stiffening the front brought about more push and slower lap times. You can check out my latest video in my thread which sorta shows the handling and grip.

[Julzaac]

Pulled the trigger and bought a turbosmart dual port BOV, seems to hold boost a bit better.

Also pulled the trigger on a new pair of taillights, as the stock ones with the circles really annoyed me! They are 6r styled ones, I'll let you guys know when they come in!!

Clear LED Rear 6R Style Lights FOR VW Polo 9N 9N3 4 05 5 09 Nice Gift Item | eBay

[HAR80N]

just fitted my whiteline rear sway bar ended up going for the hardest setting wow what a difference the car should of come stock with one now i need new tyres can feel the car wants alot more but the tyres just cant keep up now still have the front sway bar to go in and the bilstein B8 shocks and adjustable end links and the rear axle beam bushes hehehe cant wait

[Blue9N3]

Wait for a wet day, turn off esp go round a roundabout quickly and when in the hardest bit of the turn, lift off ..... Ok, just kidding. Try on a dry day in a big car park first.


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