its a Xforce 200 cel catQuote:
Originally Posted by sambb
Printable View
its a Xforce 200 cel catQuote:
Originally Posted by sambb
oh ok I think I see what you did now. Looks like you stepped it down post cat to fit onto the stock back section yeah? initially I thought you'd re used the stock cat but put it in backwards! Looks good. Wish I'd done something to minimise the heat like you have.
ive had the cat and heat wrap sitting in the garage from a previous project for 7yrs haha bout time i used it
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...id=21155&stc=1
Audi TT 17x7.5 +32, picked them up for $300. 1 has a bit of gutter rash but the other 3 are in great condition.
That's a very good buy. Mine were hacked up and all had to be reconditioned.
Went to a bigger SMIC fan. Just needs to be sealed up around any overlaps and its sorted. Will currently run off a little temperature controller that uses a thermocouple to monitor exterior core temp.
But I found this controller on autospeed:
AutoSpeed - Digital programmable voltage switch
It only draw 50 micro amps (yes micro) and will be paralleled onto the AIT sensor to give really accurate trigger points for the fan.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...id=21185&stc=1
The aim is to set it up to keep the inlet air temps at mind numbing Sydney traffic speeds/idle and hillclimb start lines (basically any heat soak situation) as low as possible.
Combine that with a water spray for even better results?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yep running a water spray already. There's a bit of a lag before it drops temps though. I can do a quick run up a hill and it won't have had much effect (max temps 65 degrees), but if I go for an extended run the average temps come down. I f you coast after 3rd gear pulls the IC core temps get right back down near ambient. In those situations I've even measured the IC fin temps at 4 degrees below ambient. When you feel the IC from the front with your hand there'll be a hot patch where the charge enters but the rest of the IC face will be cold.
Where its great is waiting on a start line. I have a manual override for the IC water spray and with the IC fan running I can give a few little squirts of water every now and then and the IC becomes cool when it would otherwise have been toast. It'll be way better when the fan just operates itself automatically with the controller above though. Keep in mind I've altered the ducting in and out though so there's a lot more air flow than stock.
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...id=21205&stc=1http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...id=21205&stc=1http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...id=21205&stc=1
The inlet pics show most of the ducting. I had to build this so that I can run with the tow hook fitted for events. The normal facia (minus the plastic backing duct) fits over all this for the street with the tow hook removed. You can just see the brass spraying systems nozzle for the water spray poking out at the bottom.
For the outlet I've fitted these vents. The wheel well is a low pressure area so gets the air really moving out of the core. A couple of posts above you can see a plate I've fitted. It acts as a heatshield between the engine bay and the IC airflow tunnel that's been created. It is shaped at the base to also spill air through a gap between it and the wheel arch shroud, toward the back of the engine bay/undertray which is also a really low pressure area that will draw air through the IC. As well as all that, you have to stop pressurised air getting in behind the IC and it comes from everywhere. Lots of foam has been used to plug these areas where high pressure air could get in. If you don't do this you won't have a pressure differential across the core and therefore no flow no matter how big you make the inlet. Basically the only air that's now behind the IC is air that has flowed through it.