What did you do to your Polo today?

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Originally Posted by h100vw

Explain packers to me Greg, not sure what you mean by that term??

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Sorry Gavin, I should have been clearer - I mean pads that pack out the space between one (or two at most) coil turns to increase the spring rate (by eliminating those lengths from compressing). There may be another term for them.

My thinking is that you could pack a turn or 2 and then adjust the height back down to get a higher spring rate for motorsport use and then remove them for everyday running for a softer ride. Pulling struts out all the time to change springs is too hard :P

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Originally Posted by Bullet Fast

The box......

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Thanks - very tempted now.

The fronts I don't see why you couldn't do that if needed. I agree pulling the struts out would get tiresome. At the back though, it's probably a 10 minute job to swap springs.

Gavin

has anyone out there come across such a thing as a fixed offset strut top that would get you a fixed amount of extra positive castor and some negetive camber, then you play with the subframes underneath to get it all dialled in to the minute? Thinking it would simplify things up top, would be a set and forget and no need to cut strut tops off to access adjustment screws etc - would looks stock,would be reliable and mightn't add height). anyone heard of anything like that that can go in with standard style struts.

Replaced the standard rubber gearbox bushes with the alloy ones and did the sai delete at the same time. Definitely nice to have a little extra room under the bonnet :)

Gav, Pete, keen for feedback on the MCA gear when you have evaluated them.
For coilovers with (combined) rebound/compression adjustability and adjustable strut tops it's hard to go past the price when compared to say KW coilovers.
Are/did you guys cut off the strut domes to get access to the strut top adjusters?
What sort of drop can you get out of them? 40mm? +?

Booked her in for a service at Volkstech, stubby antenna ordered, and a quick bath!

got my PD160 in the post today :) i put it in and cut the flap it is so much better well worth the upgrade comes in to boost so much harder now i love it the mid range is awesome i get my turbo back exhaust next week and my forge tip and intercooler pipes. oh and i dont know if i bumped something when i was putting it on but befor the PD160 max boost was 19 psi now it hits 21 psi i also put new hose clamps on the bov maybe its that :)

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Originally Posted by HAR80N

got my PD160 in the post today :) i put it in and cut the flap it is so much better well worth the upgrade comes in to boost so much harder now i love it the mid range is awesome i get my turbo back exhaust next week and my forge tip and intercooler pipes. oh and i dont know if i bumped something when i was putting it on but befor the PD160 max boost was 19 psi now it hits 21 psi i also put new hose clamps on the bov maybe its that :)

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Just make sure the vacuum line between N75 valve and turbo wastegate is still connected or not split. If it looks good, you can disconnect N75 and see what boost you get. If its 7-9psi, she's good, if its more, the vacuum line may be cracked.

Mine boosted to 25psi when the wastegate line wasn't on, damn, it was awesome.

Put on a poor mans PD160. Cut out the flap too. Surprised at the difference it makes. Best $13 + some duct tape I've spent on the POG so far :)


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Intercooler waterspray (for stock intercooler) finally installed and up and running. I put the last fuse in today to actually run water to the nozzle and got nothing. Was thinking the worst (that it was back sucking the windscreen washer hoses dry and drawing air) but all it needed was a pump/hose/nozzle prime. Just went for some 3rd gear pulls and when I parked it, the core was cool to touch. What that actually means for inlet air temps I'm not sure yet. The nozzle mists really well (hopefully all evaporating against the core) as there was no evidence of water getting out of my guard vents where it might wet the tyre. early days but pretty happy so far!