What did you do to your Polo today?

Gav, yup that's the same part. I was thinking that it was specific to the early models that may not fit. Perhaps not hey.

Kaanage, yeah I had heard that about the pads though that was the recommendation from Brakes Plus. I'll ask more questions and probably just buy the A1RM's and see how they are on the street.

Sharkie, PM on the way.

Painted the front brake calipers with VHT gloss black caliper paint. Made them look a fair bit newer!

Has anybody fixed up all the little rattles inside the car?

The joy of owning/driving a car with anything other than stock wheel/tyre/suspension.

Im going to tear my hair out soon, there was a reason I enjoyed driving stock cars!

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Originally Posted by h100vw

Was that the same one that I couldn't get to gone on Anthony's car, yet it fitted perfect on mine? Then the replacement went straight on? WTF.

What I did to my car today, will be starting in 10 minutes with me driving back to where it broke and trying to get it started again..........:facepalm:

Gavin

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Gavin, oh not a DNF! Please update and tell us the wee Red Polo is not disabled for too long? Cheers Al

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Originally Posted by jboogie

Has anybody fixed up all the little rattles inside the car?

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I've tried and failed, does that count? Mainly the dash and is much worse when its warm.

Its actually about 50% better, just not perfect. get some butyl compound and felt tape before you start taking things apart. If you think about taking the dash apart, make sure you have the special bit for the steering wheel, othewise you can't get it out properly (yes, been there)

needed new front pads, accidentally went a little overkill..
got back the car on friday
front
Audi TT/S3 calipers
DBA4000 slotted rotors
remsa pads
rear
DBA slotted rears
mintex pads
penrite fluid

also painted them gloss black to be a little different.. turns out not that different :P

the s3/tt remsa pads came with the wear indicator that plugged straight in!

anyway pics...
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...IMG_6606-1.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...IMG_6607-1.jpg
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...IMG_6604-1.jpg

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Originally Posted by noone

I've tried and failed, does that count? Mainly the dash and is much worse when its warm.

Its actually about 50% better, just not perfect. get some butyl compound and felt tape before you start taking things apart. If you think about taking the dash apart, make sure you have the special bit for the steering wheel, othewise you can't get it out properly (yes, been there)

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Please, go on!

Did you use the tape to stop the pieces touching?

Installed material (cotton) under the dash, felt tape between the center console and the dash, filling spaces with rags, etc.

My car is by no means quiet (although with the brakes being quiet I'm much happier), but when its dropped, uprated sways, front brace, it all comes together to twist the chassis. I'm thinking the front lower brace might help, but reports are mixed.

For me it was a day job, need to remove the section around the gearstick to get to another section, etc.

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Originally Posted by kaanage

Not a great idea as the pads rely on transfer of material to the rotor to give the optimal performance (hence the need to properly bed in new pads) and the different pads will not coat the rotor surfaces with the correct material for each other. Greg at GSL RallySport can give you the full low down on this.

I will add that the A1RMs are fantastic on track and still give decent bite when cold but they squeal like mad if not bedded in properly and need rebedding every now and then if used mainly on road. Again, Greg can give you the full low down on this.

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The A1RM's are a custom order and need my backing plate, so looks like i'll need to buy two sets of pads as it is. I.e. QFM will use the backing plate of the current (damaged) Remsa pads to put the new compound on to. Though is likely 4+ weeks away.

I found some great info on swapping between pads for street and track work at Essex Parts. Really interesting read. It seems like sound logic. It also helps understand the process you refer to as to why the pads would make noise and require the bedding in process to occur again.

As for my approach, I'll likely buy another set of Remsa's, though while doing track days regularly just run the A1RM's. When it's not likely I'll hit the track for a few weeks I'll swap out the A1RM's for remsa's.

For those doing light track work, the Remsa's are sufficient. I've now done ~15 happy laps and a few sprint events which has cooked the bejeezus out of em.

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Originally Posted by seangti

I found some great info on swapping between pads for street and track work at Essex Parts.

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That's a very clever method of swapping pads over - good find! :)

Battery dropped a cell. Fantastic.

Suggestions for a direct-replacement jobbie that'll go the distance?