tell me about it.. especially when the car is brand new, lol. Hand tight for the win.Quote:
Originally Posted by noone
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tell me about it.. especially when the car is brand new, lol. Hand tight for the win.Quote:
Originally Posted by noone
Sounds like your problem is your using the tool to remove/tighten the filter. You should be able to get it on/off just using your hands and a rag (and once the car is on some decent axle stands and the under-engine plastic panel is removed it's not too hard to get to). I say ditch the tool and give it a shot.Quote:
Originally Posted by noone
Nah, the SEAT intake is a total waste of money for what you get IMO ($200 for a bit of plastic tubing, on top of which most people then spend $120'ish for a BMC filter... and you still have that restrictive airbox to deal with). I'm still trying to decide, but it's most likely going to be a K&N Apollo shielded pod filter with intake pipe (so completely sealed pod filter and air intake tract).
Tightened by hand, removed with the tool. All good now.
I think the Seat intake section is great, very expensive for what it is, but if you can feel the car pulling better, then its working...
I don't think you are going to get any more cold air into the turbo with a basic Pod filter setup. There is not much breathing room around the front grill on the Polo, but moving the battery may give you good access to the flog light grill area for some good cold air. I'll be interested to see what you come up with, I'll probably go for a Pod filter at some stage, just because I like to play.
I did feel benefits with Seat intake, I was very happy with the purchase. It was my second upgrade on my car after REVO Stage 1.
Got Forge TIP (red) in today, and at the same time, had Forge DV springs uprated to yellow. Have red / blue / extra shims just in case.
Keeps the boost at more than 22 psi on full throttle, and tailing down to 16-17...
well as some of you may know, i drive a pog tdi, and for us oiler boys, intake sludge etc can be an issue.
sooooo i cleaned the side mount intercooler out. flushed it with carby cleaner and hot water, got a decent amount of crap out. cleaned up the insides of the pipework too.
as for the intake, however.... its pretty damn clean. i was impressed!
i guess i have the tune to thank for that- a hardworking diesel turbo is a healthy turbo.
p.s. i lol'd when i got underneath and saw the size of my turbo. seriously, and i mean seriously, it's about the size of the average bloke's clenched fist, supposedly running up to 22-24psi when tuned high. its frigging tiny!
I’m a tight arse, so instead of getting a the Seat pipe I made up my own fiberglass air scoop that is half as wide again at the front so it rams the air in. I also put in a egay Pipercross airfilter and blow-off valve. After a bit of messing with the spring clicks on the valve I’m happy with the results for around $220 total.
Contis are OK but overpriced. V good in the wet. They are also very soft. Bad sidewalls. Graze a gutter and expect to be buying a new tyre. Get friendly with your local tyre supplier for the endless stream of punctures.
Ordered some more goodies to throw on in a few weeks once all the parts arrive.
* Simota sealed pod filter (will need to buy MAF adapter plus doctor a connector or breather, for the cold start pipe, and a sealed intake tube to run to a cold air feed)
* Castrol Edge 5w-30
* Subaru Upper Engine cleaner
* Billet shift linkages
That plus the rest of the parts I have, or are on order (fuel filter, oil filter, sump plug, Redline MTL gearbox oil, pollen filter)
Should be along weekend of maintenance.
Finished painting my valve cover, also got the polished manifold on a week or so ago.
Removed all the N249 stuff to, car seems to be running better, boosting harder
Changed the plugs
Need to finish polishing throttle body
Waiting on a Audi R8 Oil Cap :banana:
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ngine015-2.jpg
Looks great!Quote:
Originally Posted by vwthunder
What's the benefit (and procedure for) of removing the N249?