VW Polo BUILD #3: CIAOS Continues...

[sambb]

oh ok. I thought you'd fitted shims and it had gone the wrong way. yeah you have a bucket load of rear toe in. Correcting that to a bit of toe out will be a massive change to the handling. Was that measured at the ride height that you intend on running?
Basically from here you just need to work out what you realistically want the car to do ie track setup which will burn through street tyres if you dont actually track it, or streetable setup that will probably be insufficient with camber and toe when you're on the track but be better for safer handling on the street and prolong tyre life.
Basically the more track setup ish you go will mean decent amounts of toe out and more neg camber at the same time or street which will be say 1.5-1.75 deg neg and zero toe.

[JTop]

Ideally I'd like to put the Team Dynamics on for the track, the height in the rear seems perfect for the BBS's so should be fine with clearance. Felt pretty good on the drive today
For the moment, the car's just the daily to and from work, albeit I've got to swap the two front tyres to something better than these Sailun Altrezzos the previous owner put on for a roadworthy probably. I was spinning up to 5th gear in the wet with them haha cleaned up the filthy fender liners when I checked today.

Anyway, this is the tricky part like always. I've got two shim sets so can maybe run two different styles for the rear. I don't mind taking apart and swapping them out a few times if it'll provide some benefit on the day.
So do a Street setup with one set and aggressive track on the other.

Obviously the front can be easily switched up. Pulling the ball joint further out from the LCA giving more neg camber
And then running the castor position up top, or turning the head and running strong camber.

As for bracing etc, pretty much running all Ultraracing braces and the whiteline rear swaybar on the hardest setting as opposed to the UR solid brace. *OCD Euro brace for dailying, and the extra UR boot brace when on the track.

Just slowly trying to nail everything out, probably aesthetics too (cup stuff), and do a big turbo build for fun next.

Salvage Auction Catalogue – Southern Salvage MID-RANGE BID NOW (TAS, VIC, SA, WA) – Lane 0 – Manheim National Online, National
Also coming up on Thursday morning. Hopefully get back what I put in otherwise I'll part it out.
Car's finished, would just need the reinspection from VW and then a VIV again. Just needs someone who knows what they're doing

[sambb]

I have a mid under body UR brace if you are lacking that one.
RE the shins, they are a one use only. They are basically buggered once they are removed and they are only designed to be torqued down on once. So unfortunately you pretty much need to run one set. Different matter for solid machined ones but these plastic ones aren’t reusable.
A useable one size fits all that would be fast on the track and fine still for the street would be 2mm rear total toe out (1mm out on each side) and say 1.75-2.00 deg neg. that’s if you didn’t want to bias it too heavily one way or the other and have a good compromise.

[JTop]

Out of the 7 available, I have the 6, just not their rear sway bar/Solid brace. Thanks anyway!
I always have in my head that I'll do the front swaybar when the engine is out. Should have done it whilst I had most the bits apart. Oh well...

Damn, that's what I thought. If you want the spare set all yours then Sam
I understand your new Polo doesn't have them so I'm happy to post them up and let you enjoy

I'll have a look at the sheet. So toe out ~4.5mm per side to have 1mm out each side. And might run the stronger 2deg neg camber.
Sounds good!
Thank you

[sambb]

All Good Jan. Mine just came from the UK the other day so i'll be string lining mine soon to know where to set mine when I fit them. Mine has whiteline solid shims already so I'll add the Eibach ones over the top of those.
Have you used/set up the Speciality/Eibach shims before?

[JTop]

Ah pitty, Simon? want them? freebies hehe

I have read the instruction sheet and understand the cutting principles as to remove what is shown on the paper. Think I got the alignment numbers too
If the center is the current setup, and the table is to adjust by the x amount wanted. Then my sweet spot of neg 2 degrees of camber is a blank space :CRY:

Anyway, can be 23/9 or 23/11 in quadrant #4 (bottom right) Which to my understanding brings both left to -0.96mm and right -1.26mm
Along with the camber to either approximately -1.9deg or -2.1deg. More looks cooler, Mmmm

So got that figured out, now to actually make it work LOL
Will go hunt some Rear lines this weekend and go around on Monday to figure out who'll be able to fit the braided lines on. Essentially a cut, slide the screwable fitting on and flare the end of the hardline. ACTUALLY, I think I have a tool to cut it proper... But flaring it, I'll ask my father what tricks he has up his sleeve. Might DIY it the more I think about it.

Thanks again Sam

[sambb]

Yeah if you are adding toe out and neg camber then you’ll be in the bottom right quadrant.
Often you will end up on a space between two numbers where you just have to make an educated guess based on which of the two you are closer to. Also you should err on the side of caution with toe but can go the other way with camber if you wanted ie. an extra .25 degree of camber is no big deal but an extra 1mm of rear toe out makes an enormous difference if you already have toe out.
I’ll leave picking the numbers to you though cos it’s pretty easy to misread columns etc. camber is pretty easy but for toe in general you need to refer to their rim diameter chart to convert degrees toe to mm toe from memory.
Hang onto to those spare ones till you’ve done the job. You can easily break them as you cut them ( clamping them in a vice and then filing out the relief for the abs sensor works best otherwise you can accidentally break out segments you didn’t intend on removing), accidentally start removing segments when you haven’t flipped the shim around the right way ( one of them needs to be flipped before installed) or you might just make a math error and need to pull one side out again and repeat. Good luck!!

[simon k]

Ah pitty, Simon? want them? freebies hehe

no thanks Jan, I tried a set and they fell to bits in my hands, I'm not a fan at all. They obviously work for Sam and he's been using them for many thousands of km, but they're not for me

I made alminium spacer plates and machined them to produce the camber and toe I wanted - with the added bonus of extra rear track

[JTop]

Those look mint Simon... No worries at all!

Sam, I did notice that when I was getting those figures. The slightest variation in the current baseline and it'll easily be off the aim.
I'll get these Porsche brakes and sit and do the rear end and full brake upgrade too. Probably in three weeks when I'm done with Uni.

Heading up to QLD in a month to help another fellow Polo owner install his XSPower K04-001XL turbo and have a bit of a holiday too. So will be a bit of fun.

Thanks guys

[JTop]

So had a few hiccups over the weekend...

Car spat the dummy Saturday night. Threw itself into a safe map and wouldn't let me boost over 7psi.
So I went to figure out where the hell is the leak, had to be a burst pipe or something. I wasn't confident on how well the TIP was on, but it was on quite solid, but silly me took it off at 12pm at night trying to see if that was the issue. Anyway lodged it on and tightened it somehow. Came to the conclusion, had to be the front IC pipes. Hole somewhere giving way.

Took the front bumper off and started taking the top side of the intercooler pipes off. Water... How? Very good question.
No residue in the lower section running into the dual pass IC. Took it all apart. Cleaned the little bit of oil residue sitting in one pipe.
Took the IC off to check how much water is sitting in the bottom of it. Dry


Questioned myself as to how this would happen. So started pressure testing the system. IC first. Held fine
Then done the top section to the throttle body. Couldn't even give it one pump of air. needle didn't even move how bad it was.


O-ring had died on the MAP sensor bung. Replaced that. seated it in and used some Silicone to seal that completely. Held perfectly fine after that. Asked Gavin what would be up too because I had no codes saved. He said look at the DV which I had a feeling might be buggered, so rebuilt the forge splitter valve, why not.
Anyway. Threw that all on. Went for another drive and again. Nothing changed. Check the codes, car finally spat an overboost, limit reached and DV open problem and the forge valve had finally given way. Would just bang open and closed even though I sealed the lid with loctite. Needs a new spring! While I waited for the Silicone to dry, took the intake manifold off and gave that a proper clean because that was filthy. Need new injector cups for this manifold. They are worn and honestly need replacing. But anyway. Threw the Phenolic Spacer on too, while I had it all apart.

Anyway, put the Forge 008 with a yellow spring on, and it drove pretty darn good after that
Sunder night after quite a drive, car starter whistling. Had a good feeling it was the TIP that finally slid off.

yup.

So Monday was back in the garage figuring how to make sure the TIP doesn't get wedged out. Deleted the remainder of the SAI tower because that was in the way for the Catchcan breather hose. Got the TIP on and that won't go anywhere anytime soon.


But today, driving to work, tried a 3rd gear pull, wasn't happy... Not sure why but it's holding back. Will log the drive back home. Need to do the rocker cover gasket soon. Half moon in the rear is just letting oil out. Watching my oil level too in case I am burning it off as I have been told Cyl 3 compression is low. Doesn't feel like it when the car is pulling

Will see what it tells me and go from there :/