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Thread: Tramlining & Excessive Torque Steer.

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattyVW View Post
    I would agree, but with the sleeves eddy had made up, the center is offset to accommodate the ability to move sub-frame / chassis, i assume, allowing the alignment guys to move them if necessary.

    Anyone feel free to correct me if i am wrong.
    That is spot on and why the sleeves have a hex at the top to make rotating them simple.
    Resident grumpy old fart
    VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

  2. #82
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    [QUOTE=kaanage;779251]The bolt makes perfect sense to me - I'm actually surprised that it is only really located fore-aft by the front bush.

    Hoyhoy.

    Greg if I understand ya correctly, theres four cam sleeves & that covers the whole front end subframe,
    which include the front & rear bush of the front end.
    As far as I remember these are the only spots that have the 12mm bolts going into 18mm holes.
    >
    Please folks bear with me as it has been 2 years since dealing with this factor, when I muck about with one factor & finish it I then move onto the next one.
    >
    I have several little things done to the Little Blue Girl that I'm sure no else has done to the Pog.[QUOTE=kaanage;779251]

    ---------- Post added at 10:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by kaanage View Post

    My question was actually about the function of the polyureathane washer. The bolt is already directly connected to the control arm and the 1st washer only contacts the control arm bush, not the carrier, which the control arm does directly anyway so I can't see why you need to provide any insulation from shock.
    Hoyhoy.

    I understand what ya saying here & I don't really have an answer, but hopefully there was a reason.

    ---------- Post added at 10:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by vwthunder View Post
    Spoke to the Guys at Pedders (pedders you say), tho it was a while ago. The guys at South Melbourne are great and really into performance cars, workshop is always full of great machines.

    Anyway I was telling him about them, and I was told how they use the slack in the subframe to make small adjustments if they need to when doing a allignment, and without small adjustments well makes the car harder to setup?

    Is this correct


    Hoyhoy.

    These cam sleeves have slack for adjusting without having any slack what so ever when fitted.

    ---------- Post added at 10:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:46 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by kaanage View Post
    That is spot on and why the sleeves have a hex at the top to make rotating them simple.
    Also why I supplied a bent spanner for two of the bolts.
    Does anyone know how to adjust the subframe for wheel aligning when standard, needed is special tooling (to move) which a lot of wheel alignment places won't have.
    Last edited by Eddy; 22-02-2012 at 09:35 PM.
    Hooroo.

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddy View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by kaanage View Post
    The bolt makes perfect sense to me - I'm actually surprised that it is only really located fore-aft by the front bush.
    Hoyhoy.

    Greg if I understand ya correctly, theres four cam sleeves & that covers the whole front end subframe,
    which include the front & rear bush of the front end.
    As far as I remember these are the only spots that have the 12mm bolts going into 18mm holes.
    >
    Please folks bear with me as it has been 2 years since dealing with this factor, when I muck about with one factor & finish it I then move onto the next one.
    >
    I have several little things done to the Little Blue Girl that I'm sure no else has done to the Pog.
    Hi Eddy, I was referring to the bolt added to the end of the control arm in the above quote. The sleeves also make perfect sense (which is why I'm buying a set off you!! )
    Resident grumpy old fart
    VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaanage View Post
    Hi Eddy, I was referring to the bolt added to the end of the control arm in the above quote. The sleeves also make perfect sense (which is why I'm buying a set off you!! )
    Hoyhoy.

    The outer part of the bush is a press fit & not the inner section, me just wanted to make everything tighter.
    Ya will not believe how direct the steering is on this Little Girl.
    Hooroo.

  5. #85
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    Eddy, how tight should these bolts be?
    Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuwey View Post
    Eddy, how tight should these bolts be?
    Hoyhoy.

    Stu, me do them F.T.
    P.S. I mark everything with liquid ink, easy to tell when things are coming loose or mooving.
    Hooroo.

  7. #87
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    Easy, cheers.
    Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddy View Post
    Stu, me do them F.T.
    Is that Finger Tight or Fuçking Tight?
    Resident grumpy old fart
    VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

  9. #89
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    Eddy, you've focused highly on the front here for improvements. The rear of mine tends to wallow through small imperfections in the road, feeling like it almost side-steps as it hits a sharp bump.

    Have you done by development on the rear at all?
    Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaanage View Post
    Is that Finger Tight or Fuçking Tight?
    Hoyhoy.

    Greg, me use me fingers for other things.

    ---------- Post added at 11:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Stuwey View Post
    Eddy, you've focused highly on the front here for improvements. The rear of mine tends to wallow through small imperfections in the road, feeling like it almost side-steps as it hits a sharp bump.

    Have you done by development on the rear at all?
    Never had too much of a problem with the rear Stu, but I've had the KW shocks in for quiet some time.
    I also have a 24mm. front sway bar (not the ordinary after market 22mm.) & set on the siftest setting, this for a start would have helped the rear stay in line. About 18 months ago I played around with the rear, putting in rear strut brace,
    rear alignment spacers & rear sway bar which was first set on stiff, then to the softest, because she was too tail happy.
    Even now I have to heat up the rears when I hit the track to go for a quick one, but she steers like a woman posessed.
    It was after tuning the rear up a bit that the Little Blue Girl was able to do the 1-10's @ Waky.
    I'm in Sydney right now & hoping for the rain to lay off for the weekend because I'm hitting Wakefield this Sat. & Sunday with official timing only on the Sunday.
    Have made a couple of more little tweaks since last track day.
    Hooroo.

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