folks, i'm looking at the first picture and can't for the love of VW fathom where that part is supposed to be. does anyone have a zoomed-out picture (or an ETKA one) that shows the general location of the bolt + screw ?
Sorry for the delay Eddy,
The installation was done by mechanic and slight machining was required to get fit. They need tight fit! He said it was a well made kit, and something he has never seen before... anyway, I haven't had a chance to do wheel alignment yet, but will be going in soon. Once done right, i don't see why we will need to touch the camber adjustment (through cradle shifting) ever again.
Does feel solid driving around, but I have all the bushings done. So I would say this is for more 'precise and accurate cradle camber adjustment' so that you do it once right and never have to touch again. Not many wheel alignment places would be keen to touch your cradle,and will do their best to play with angles and other adjustment to get the car going straight. I know from the fact that my camber is set so it's going slightly towards left, and this had to be adjusted before.
Time to go back, for the last time.
06 Polo GTI - REVO Stage 2 = 140kw @ wheels.
06 Golf GTI - Bluefin Stage 1 blacked out with ED30 theme, leather, xenon, etc.
folks, i'm looking at the first picture and can't for the love of VW fathom where that part is supposed to be. does anyone have a zoomed-out picture (or an ETKA one) that shows the general location of the bolt + screw ?
Hoyhoy.
Just took a couple of quick shots, hope this helps Ya. Its a shame I don't take more pics when I have things in pieces.
First pic. shows one of them (circle) right next to rear bush of the control arm (X).
Second pic. shows the other one right next to the front sway bar where it first starts to curl upwards & near the drive shaft inner CV joint.
Then the same on the other side of the vehicle.
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Hooroo.
thank you, Eddy!!
Hi Eddy
Do you have any of the sleeves left?
---------- Post added at 04:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:34 PM ----------
What would be the issue if a metal washer was used to space the control arm to the bush?
Or am I missing the point, here?
Resident grumpy old fart
VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS
Hoyhoy.
Greg there is one complete set with cam sleeves, bolts & spanner available.
As to your other question of using a metal washer, thats I what do but with a softer washer as well so as to insulate from going straight to the body, I done this to try & stop any movement of the inner part of the main bush from going forward & backward.
I think may be the part your missing is in the first picture, that bolt & nut on the end I had added by an engineer.
Hooroo.
The bolt makes perfect sense to me - I'm actually surprised that it is only really located fore-aft by the front bush.
My question was actually about the function of the polyureathane washer. The bolt is already directly connected to the control arm and the 1st washer only contacts the control arm bush, not the carrier, which the control arm does directly anyway so I can't see why you need to provide any insulation from shock.
Need to talk to my mechanic about the sleeve kit but it looks good!
Last edited by kaanage; 21-02-2012 at 06:16 PM.
Resident grumpy old fart
VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS
Spoke to the Guys at Pedders (pedders you say), tho it was a while ago. The guys at South Melbourne are great and really into performance cars, workshop is always full of great machines.
Anyway I was telling him about them, and I was told how they use the slack in the subframe to make small adjustments if they need to when doing a allignment, and without small adjustments well makes the car harder to setup?
Is this correct
MODS- TOO MANY
Current - 2006 VW Polo TDI & R34 Nissan Skyline GTV+T
Was - 1991 BMW 525i/M -> 1991 CBR250RR -> 1999 Proton GTI -> 1984 Merc 500SEC -> 2006 VZ Commodore SV6 6M -> 1996 R33 GTS Skyline -> 2000 Volvo S80 TT -> 2008 Hyosung GT250R -> 1990 BMW 535iS -> 1997 BMW 540i V8 -> 1986 BMW 535iS -> 1985 Nissan Pulsar SSS...
For Sale - 1986 BMW 535iS & 1986 528i Exec.
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