The roll centres section in the Geometry page highlights another issue with dropping a Mac Strut too far aside from the commonly know camber issue.
A mate just sent me this link - Suspension Choice and Set Up
So far only reading up on roll stiffness, very interesting, and it has some maths to quantify changes.
Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII
Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline
Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **
The roll centres section in the Geometry page highlights another issue with dropping a Mac Strut too far aside from the commonly know camber issue.
Resident grumpy old fart
VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS
I don't know - maybe CNC machining type people could answer this one.... Would it be feasible to take our ball joint assemblies, grind off the welded on nuts and then elongate the remaining holes into slots that could slide the joint in and out of the control arm for camber adjustment. Obviously you'd need to change to nuts and bolts afterwards. any thoughts? Pete? eddy machinist mate?
would look similar to this in the end:
Roll Center/Bumpsteer Correction Kit : USRT, Usually Sideways Rally Team
Will this work?
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Last edited by Bullet Fast; 27-03-2015 at 05:17 PM.
That would be the one. Is that the mk5 golf one though? I couldn't find anything for the polo. Anyone have any ideas if this or the mk4 golf ones will fit into our lower control arms?
I know someone who fitted those to his tarmac rally car (a Fiat Punto turbodiesel) and said the difference in directness and control over polyureathane rear LCA bushes was remarkable. The Punto has an verticle rear LCA layout like the MkIV Golf and 6R Polo, though.
Resident grumpy old fart
VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS
The superpro ball joints don't look as extended as these ones:
Roll Center/Bumpsteer Correction Kit : USRT, Usually Sideways Rally Team
but it does say that they are extended ball joint. I guess you'd choose based on how low you had gone. An added advantage of gaining camber at the strut base (rather than the top) is that it is track widening.
A lot of 'if's' though. Who knows if the ball joint fits our spindle, whether the bolt patterns line up with our control arms or if its slim enough to slide inside it. I'll send them an email.
Last edited by sambb; 27-03-2015 at 09:04 PM.
Here's another spin on it:
http://www.ingallseng.com/Instructions/35655.pdf
Hey what about this idea as a way to extend actual ball joint height but by using OEM polo gear - Using our existing OEM ball joint assembly but bolting it to the top of our control arm (sort of like the pic in the link) rather than sliding it inside. 1st you'd make up a plate that matches the ball joint assembly bolt pattern, and this would slide into the control arm arm where the ball joint assembly normally goes. The purpose of this would be to be to prevent the control arm ends crushing when torqued and would keep it all strong. Then you just put the OEM ball joint on top of the control arm and bolt it down much as you normally would (you'd need slightly longer bolts).
Thats gotta work. That would raise your ball joint by atleast the width of the OEM ball joint assemblies plate, uses OEM parts and is totally reversible. Just a keyboard idea though - haven't had a good look at the top of our control arm to see if there are ribs that may not let it seat properly.
Last edited by sambb; 27-03-2015 at 09:33 PM. Reason: addition
actually no ... that won't work. It'll keep the ball joint pivot in the same spot relative to the spindle and just change the control arm angle. Might still be a valid way of putting a ball joint assembly onto our control arm that does have an extended taper from another car.
If it won't fit, would it be possible to fill the mk5 super pro ball joints holes with weld without melting the boot/pivot? If its close it could then be redrilled to our bolt pattern.
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