simon's learning what to do with the polo thread

[sambb]

Yep nice one. I'd much prefer it nice and solid like yours rather than using the Speciality shims which just don't look rock solid. I was very tempted to use the 1/2in but would have to have flared the guards massively if I was ever to run 215 rears so used the 3/8's. I went from 5mm toe in total or something like that to zero toe and then out again to 2mm to out. I'd be surprised if it doesn't feel way better now for you. Although you probably have double the camber at the rear compared to the fronts now which might dull the overall effect.

[simon k]

I agree, the 1/2" plates are a bit too thick, but give you good insurance for fiddling around with things later. Obviously I'm glad I had them sitting there to experiment with

I've ordered a little digital protractor so I can make a wheel mount for it to measure the camber. Looking at the car sitting in the carpark is deceptive, but there isn't much extra.

It was 'different' on my usual test corners on the way to work, more dynamic on turn-in and tended to lift the inside rear earlier which is what I think we expected

Coilover sleeves arrived on Friday and VWThunder's KMac strut tops & springs are sitting at the freight depot for me to pick up. Next track day is on 11th Nov so if I get my act together it might be all sorted by then

[sambb]

ah you got those - sweet. Those tops will give you some proper caster and camber and looked like a pretty good spring rate too. Will go well enough to get a lot out of semis after that.

[simon k]

ah you got those - sweet. Those tops will give you some proper caster and camber and looked like a pretty good spring rate too. Will go well enough to get a lot out of semis after that.

here's hoping... I've just come inside from fixing the gear selector linkage on the mini so I can drive it to work while I pull the Polo's struts out, I feel like it'll be more than a relaxed weekend job

[Sydneykid]

Yep nice one. I'd much prefer it nice and solid like yours rather than using the Speciality shims which just don't look rock solid. I was very tempted to use the 1/2in but would have to have flared the guards massively if I was ever to run 215 rears so used the 3/8's. I went from 5mm toe in total or something like that to zero toe and then out again to 2mm to out. I'd be surprised if it doesn't feel way better now for you. Although you probably have double the camber at the rear compared to the fronts now which might dull the overall effect.

The shims are sandwiched so it doesn't really matter how "solid" they are. As long as the bolts don't loosen they are trapped. I've used them for more than 15 years on all sorts of cars, many more higher powered, with much bigger wheel/tyres and way heavier than a Polo. We did a 12 Hour at Bathurst with a set in Swift, followed by 2 x 6 Hours, one at Sandown and one at Eastern Creek, then a 2 Hour at Philip Island. Then they did 100,000 k’s in a Swift road car.

Cheers
Gary

[Sydneykid]

here's hoping... I've just come inside from fixing the gear selector linkage on the mini so I can drive it to work while I pull the Polo's struts out, I feel like it'll be more than a relaxed weekend job

Swapping front struts, should take longer to jack it up, put the stands under and take the wheels of than actually swapping the legs

Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

Thanks Gary. Good to know. I feel much better about using them then.

[simon k]

Swapping front struts, should take longer to jack it up, put the stands under and take the wheels of than actually swapping the legs

Cheers
Gary

dunno Gary... I see it going more like this:

1. jack up & put stands under
2. remove wheels
3. f*ck about compressing the spring
4. use previously made special tool to expand bearing housing upright thing
5. give up on special tool and use chisel to expand bearing housing upright thing
6. remove the strut trying not to damage mudguard
7. repeat for other side
8. disassemble struts (incl. remove inner from body)
9. make a welding heat sink insert for strut body
10. cut off spring seat
11. machine smooth
12. trial fit coilover sleeve and assemble with strut top
13. disassemble and second guess self
14. prime (weld-through) strut body
15. tack weld sleeve
16. reassemble
17. disassemble and second guess self
18. reassemble and decide was OK
19. disassemble and second guess self
20. reassemble and decide was OK
21. disassemble and second guess self
22. reassemble and decide was OK
23. disassemble and second guess self
24. reassemble and decide was OK
25. disassemble and second guess self
26. bite bullet, weld sleeve
27. repeat for other strut body from (10)
28. paint strut bodies
29. reassemble, marvel at how cool it looks
30. install in car, fiddle around with springs and seats
31. put wheels back on
32. drop car on ground
33. ride height is wrong
34. try to figure out the best way to adjust and make it even
35. jack up again and adjust
36. repeat from (32) as required
37. go for a drive, marvel at awesome handling
38. post a message on VWW saying "that was easy...", trying not to bleed on keyboard

[Sydneykid]

My method suggestions;
1 & 2 OK
3 Remove old struts and strut tops
4 Replace with new struts and strut tops already prepared
5 Reverse 1 & 2
6 Take for a drive

The ride height adjustment is 0.9 to 1, so if you want to lower it 10 mm (at the wheel) then lower the spring seat 9 mm. You really don't have to drive it before you set the ride height, it will settle around 5 mm so set it up 5 mm higher than where you want it before you drive it. Just roll it back and forth a few times to remove any camber jacking. Give it around 1,000 k's before you do any fine tuning of the ride height.

When setting up the sleeves on the strut firstly compare the free height of the springs. Then locate the middle of the thread around
where the OE spring seat would be allowing for differences in the spring free height. You should have 75 mm of thread adjustment so it's not that critical where the spring seat is located. Just make them the same side to side, it makes it easier to guess/equalise the ride height.

Cheers
Gary

[simon k]

My method suggestions;
1 & 2 OK
3 Remove old struts and strut tops
4 Replace with new struts and strut tops already prepared
5 Reverse 1 & 2
6 Take for a drive

ahh.. yeah, except the Bilsteins are already in the car and that's what I'm going to weld the sleeves to... so they've gotta come out, be modified and go back in

The ride height adjustment is 0.9 to 1, so if you want to lower it 10 mm (at the wheel) then lower the spring seat 9 mm. You really don't have to drive it before you set the ride height, it will settle around 5 mm so set it up 5 mm higher than where you want it before you drive it. Just roll it back and forth a few times to remove any camber jacking. Give it around 1,000 k's before you do any fine tuning of the ride height.

When setting up the sleeves on the strut firstly compare the free height of the springs. Then locate the middle of the thread around
where the OE spring seat would be allowing for differences in the spring free height. You should have 75 mm of thread adjustment so it's not that critical where the spring seat is located. Just make them the same side to side, it makes it easier to guess/equalise the ride height.

Cheers
Gary

gotcha, cheers