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Thread: simon's learning what to do with the polo thread

  1. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by simon k View Post
    links about aluminium... 6061 is just a bit behind 6082 for strength, 7075 is really strong, but not so corrosion resistant as the other two

    7 Things to Consider When Choosing an Aluminum Grade | Metal Supermarkets
    Which aluminium alloy to choose? |
    http://www.capral.com.au/ArticleDocu...e2015.pdf.aspx
    Had a chat to the machinist, he prefers 6082 as it machines better/faster/easier in the mill, but he uses 6061 when he can't get 6082. We usually source alloy from Ullrich.

    Cheers
    Gary
    Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

  2. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sydneykid View Post
    Had a chat to the machinist, he prefers 6082 as it machines better/faster/easier in the mill, but he uses 6061 when he can't get 6082. We usually source alloy from Ullrich.

    Cheers
    Gary
    was on the phone with a laser cutter and opened up to check those links - they can't get any 6082 - he said "6082 is a european standard, our equivalent is 6061", which is a bit bullsh*t, but that's what he said...

    he's contacting the supplier about pricing for 6061
    *but* it's produced in imperial, so I need to choose between 9.53mm and 12.7mm. 1mm of narrower track is easier to deal with than 1" of wider so I think 9.53
    *another but* is they were out of stock of the 9.53 a couple of weeks ago, so I might need to go with 12.7mm, which gives us more room to machine them if we want it

    steel sounds better and better by the minute!

  3. #163
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    another quote back - water-jet cut 9.53mm 6061 T6 for ~$35 each

    what do we think of that?

  4. #164
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    Yep sounds good to me. I'll take 2 pair if you need to bump numbers up to get it cheaper. I'll have a look at work for high tensile bolts.

  5. #165
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    Or I'd grab a pair of 9.53 and a pair of 12.7 if you want to do both.

  6. #166
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    making more of the same thickness does make them cheaper, multiple thicknesses doesn't - so we need to make a call on which one - 12.7mm means maybe too thick initially, but has more material to machine off to make toe & camber corrections. 9.53mm is probably too thin to machine much off, especially when we're looking for toe-out which means thinner at the trailing edge where the caliper mounts...

    I'm rubbish at making decisions

    edit: oh yeah, seen these? https://www.darksidedevelopments.co....platforms.html

  7. #167
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    wow you don't often see our car actually listed in the drop downs. 60 pounds is a bit steep. To make a decision on which width I reckon measure your front and rear tracks. I'd do it on mine but with modded subframes and balljoints/wishbones I think my front track is pretty far from a stock reference. Just look to see how much narrower the rear track is relative to the front. I think Re003's have a tyre centre line mark stencilled on them that you can use as a reference.
    Do you have et43's or 38's. Et43 with a 12.7 spacer takes you to ET30.3 and 9.53 takes you to ET33.5, both of which are good with 205's.
    Et38 rims with 12.7 spacers gives you ET25.3 (probably a limit on 205's without scrub issues) eg my et40's at the back run 20mm spacers = ET20 which is 5mm too far with 205's but is just right with 195's. A 9.53 spacer gives ET28.5, again all will be ok with 205's.
    But having said that you don't want to space the rear and take its track out wider than the front unless you are prepared to run front spacers, so take the above numbers into account against the track widths you measure.
    Let me know if you want me to measure my stock et43 track widths.

  8. #168
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    looked at the pictures of their race car that's linked on that darkside product page. Good to see the front ride height isn't slammed at all. Their kit doesn't use plated bolts. I can easily get 12.9 cap head high tensiles like that for us.
    Last edited by sambb; 04-07-2018 at 11:37 PM.

  9. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by sambb View Post
    looked at the pictures of their race car that's linked on that darkside product page. Good to see the front ride height isn't slammed at all. Their kit doesn't use plated bolts. I can easily get 12.9 cap head high tensiles like that for us.
    I like their caster adjustment in the strut tops...

    I'm using the stock wheels still, so ET43 - I'll measure it a bit and see what I come up with... maybe take the spring out and have a look too.

    hey, you know how we were talking about converting to wheel studs one day, I think the sensor for the rear wheel picks up toip of the wheel bolts - does that sound right to you?

  10. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by simon k View Post
    hey, you know how we were talking about converting to wheel studs one day
    I've still got a wheel stud conversion kit at home.... I think. You'd just need some ball-seat nuts for the OE wheels.
    Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

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