simon's learning what to do with the polo thread

[simon k]

I was just suggesting that it would be interesting to compare the anti roll with and without the rear swaybar. Not that you should remove the rear bar and drive it, once anyone has experienced a FWD car with increased rear anti roll they never want to go back

Cheers
Gary

can I use past experience and say "f*ck no! it was horrible!" and skip the bar removal? haha

[simon k]

paused while going up my driveway.... noice

[sambb]

very WRC. Don't open a door while its like that!

[simon k]

I did! I opened the door to jump out and take the picture - I should try it with the rear hatch, you said you couldn't get your hatch closed with one wheel jacked up...

[sambb]

no it was when mine was doing the same trick as your car but in my driveway. which has a twist to it. opposite front becoming unloaded too and yeah the rear hatch didn't want to close once it popped. Now that the car is so stiff and braced it creaks like an old staircase when its twisted like that.

[simon k]

time for a rollcage... REALLY stiffen it up

[simon k]

here's what I was thinking of doing for a rear stub axle spacer - would tap a thread in the holes that line up with the original caliper mounts and put a bolt through or a locating pin - a locating pin would allow the use of toe/camber shims. The caliper is mounted to the plate and is rotated around the stub axle's axis a bit.

Could line the holes in the spacer plate up with the original mounts and use a longer bolt, but doing it this way gives some freedom with toe/camber shims



seem reasonable?

[sambb]

yep for sure. The whiteline ones were similar but ran further forward so the stub axle had spacer meat under it in all places. Not sure if the whiteline shim had the caliper through bolted through it though. Basically looks a goer to me. Possibly a fast track method to working out the thicknesses could be to order a pair of the eibach shims. They could be put in their various camber/toe configurations and their thicknesses measured off as a guide to what you need to generate. Various toe's at 2 degrees neg camber would be good. I'll take a couple of pairs once you start knocking them out!

[simon k]

The whiteline ones were similar but ran further forward so the stub axle had spacer meat under it in all places.

ahh, yep, that'd make sense... I should probably make them round and the same diameter as the stub axle so they look like they're meant to be there

They could be put in their various camber/toe configurations and their thicknesses measured off as a guide to what you need to generate.

I was just going to cut them out flat and put the plastic shims behind them, but are you suggesting pre-machining them at set toe/camber angles?

I guess that'd be easy enough. I'd have to make a jig to sit on the mill. Jig would have 4 pegs aligned with the mount holes. Sit the plate on the jig with the right shims under each peg, bolt it down (countersunk centre hole) and then mill it flat... sounds like it'd work OK

might need to wait until July though

[sambb]

yeah either way would work. I suppose the problem of making up angled spacers is that you'd need to make so many variations that it'd be impractical. Yeah doing them as a straight spacer and then running them over the top of the adjustable shims would be the cost effective way to do it. I do worry about my wheel bearings at et20 at the back.