simon's learning what to do with the polo thread

**sambb** · 12-03-2018, 10:14 PM

yep not a bad idea to go bigger bore and fit a more offset eccentric. Or keep the front the same but go oversize on the back bolts to really kick the back of the subframe out and get more caster. The wishbone mod would get you your camber. I think there is a bit of a limit there though with the steer crossmember that spans the subframes. It bolts to the subframes so if you widen the span between them with eccentrics then you may need to oversize the bolt holes in the crossmember to allow it to bolt up. The bolts are undersized relative to the holes in the crossmemeber just like the subframes and you'd probably still get away with it but worth measuring. My front lower control arm bolts (front horizontal ones) were actually a struggle to line up with their holes because my wishbone was kicked out so far at the back with eccentrics and the caster bushes.

The spherical droplinks would be for the back. The rubberised ones you get with anti roll bar kits are pretty soggy.

**simon k** · 13-03-2018, 06:05 PM

I've been offered a set of 15x6 et 38 audi a3 wheels (1998 8L) Too skinny?

**sambb** · 13-03-2018, 06:53 PM

um they'll be ok for up to 195's but if you ever wanted to run 205's or 205's just at the front theyd be pretty balloon. Street semis and proper r spec semis are often much wider than the stated width compared to normal street tyres which can accentuate that. Id stick with 6.5in minimum.

**simon k** · 14-03-2018, 12:03 PM

I think this is the RH wishbone subframe - it bolts to the body at A and B, which is where Eddy's eccentric inserts go, allowing the subframe to be moved to a better position. There's another subframe that bolts between them, I assume that pushing the two wishbone subframes apart makes this one harder to get in

simon's learning what to do with the polo thread-wishbone-mount-jpg

**sambb** · 14-03-2018, 02:30 PM

Yep that's the RHS subframe. The console at the back houses the rear lower control arm (LCA) bush. Superpro make one that has an offset hole. It can be pressed in with the hole towards the top for more anti dive, the bottom for less anti dive, or the outside for extra caster. The LCA/wishbones front bush will slot into a void created by that font horizontal bolt thread on the subframe and the steer cross member. Holes A and B are the ones you ream and fit the eccentrics into. I found that the front eccentric barely added any camber, but B position definitely added caster. You still need the eccentric at A so that you can chase the one at B, otherwise they'll bind. The two vertical lower smaller holes are where bolts go up through the crossmember, through the subframe and into the steering rack. If the subframes are to be shifted with ecentrics these need to be loose or nothing will move. Even the front LCA bolt really needs to be backed out. So if you are to go even bigger bore on the subframe eccentrics, ou may need to oversize the steer rack bolt holes in either the subframe or the crossmember as they might be what limits how far the subframes an shift. I know that with Eddy's bolts and mostly just kicking out the back of the frames for more caster, it put the frames and therefore the front LCA bolt holes on such an angle that I struggled a bit to find the thread with the bolt when viewed from the front through the black steer crossmember which forms the front of the front LCA bush housing.
vw polo 9n3 front suspension exploded diagram - Bing

**sambb** · 14-03-2018, 02:37 PM

For Eddy's eccentrics, I was lucky. My frames hadn't shifted around much so the subframe holes were virgin. I was able to get under the car and do them with a hand reamer. Keep in mind that if you plan on removing the subframes its best to do it one at a time as with both out there is nothing holding the steer crossmember in and under its own weight it'll hang off the steering column and the steering rack hydraulics unless propped up.

Another thing - that would be the time to do front ARB. The FARB sits behind the uprights of the subrame and there is no other way to get it in other than dropping the subframes. The complete assembled LCA, subframe, crosmember etc can be lowered away from the chassis by removing the subframe bolts and separating the steering column, and letting it all hang on black brakets #9 in the diagram which bend down,, but it'd be easier to do it all at once.

**simon k** · 14-03-2018, 03:24 PM

Originally Posted by sambb

Yep that's the RHS subframe. The console at the back houses the rear lower control arm (LCA) bush. Superpro make one that has an offset hole. It can be pressed in with the hole towards the top for more anti dive, the bottom for less anti dive, or the outside for extra caster. The LCA/wishbones front bush will slot into a void created by that font horizontal bolt thread on the subframe and the steer cross member. Holes A and B are the ones you ream and fit the eccentrics into. I found that the front eccentric barely added any camber, but B position definitely added caster. You still need the eccentric at A so that you can chase the one at B, otherwise they'll bind. The two vertical lower smaller holes are where bolts go up through the crossmember, through the subframe and into the steering rack. If the subframes are to be shifted with ecentrics these need to be loose or nothing will move. Even the front LCA bolt really needs to be backed out. So if you are to go even bigger bore on the subframe eccentrics, ou may need to oversize the steer rack bolt holes in either the subframe or the crossmember as they might be what limits how far the subframes an shift. I know that with Eddy's bolts and mostly just kicking out the back of the frames for more caster, it put the frames and therefore the front LCA bolt holes on such an angle that I struggled a bit to find the thread with the bolt when viewed from the front through the black steer crossmember which forms the front of the front LCA bush housing.
vw polo 9n3 front suspension exploded diagram - Bing

understood. I found the same diagram as you, then found the photo of the subframe itself... and stuck my head under the car in the carpark

Originally Posted by sambb

For Eddy's eccentrics, I was lucky. My frames hadn't shifted around much so the subframe holes were virgin. I was able to get under the car and do them with a hand reamer. Keep in mind that if you plan on removing the subframes its best to do it one at a time as with both out there is nothing holding the steer crossmember in and under its own weight it'll hang off the steering column and the steering rack hydraulics unless propped up.

yep, good tip. There is hardly any wear on my car, so I expect they'll be pretty good. I doubt it'd ever even been over a gutter - the plastic covers underneath have no marks anywhere...

Originally Posted by sambb

Another thing - that would be the time to do front ARB. The FARB sits behind the uprights of the subrame and there is no other way to get it in other than dropping the subframes. The complete assembled LCA, subframe, crosmember etc can be lowered away from the chassis by removing the subframe bolts and separating the steering column, and letting it all hang on black brakets #9 in the diagram which bend down,, but it'd be easier to do it all at once.

cool, that makes sense, but I don't think putting in a new FARB will happen for a while - budget constraints. I'll do the bushes, but the hardware will probably stay where as is

**simon k** · 14-03-2018, 03:36 PM

link for lemmiwinks use instructions - VWFixx Adjustable Software Tuning Guide - General Discussion Forum - Gulf Coast Euros Forums

**Sydneykid** · 15-03-2018, 10:31 AM

For adjustable strut tops have chat to Greg Nolan at Suspension Concepts www.suspensionconcepts.com.au

I don't think they are in the current range, so he may need a sample strut top to base the design on. He maybe also able to build in some additional or adjustable caster, which may avoid having to stretch the lower control arm caster bushes mounting to achieve enough caster.

I recall that KMac made them, maybe still do, but they were a bit exy as $500 or so for the pair.

http://k-mac.com/product/volkswagen-...t-kit-141016k/

The advantage of using a camber and caster adjustable strut top is that you may be able to avoid having to stretch the lower control arm caster bushes mounting to achieve enough caster.

As you probably already know Superpro make a caster adjustable rear lower control arm bush SPF3397K, on the Golf's we used to also make adjustable crush tubes that supplemented the offset in the bush itself and also gave some adjustment so we could finely match caster, side to side.

Cheers
Gary