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Thread: Seat Uprated Bushes

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buller_Scott View Post
    lol... this must be getting out of hand...

    it'd be cute to think that there's only one person on the east coast of our continent who knows this ****, you just need to find another one....

    VW mech in your city, that is... there should be a bunch around.
    Sorry was in hospital so got a bit behind , so sorry i havent been on to answer the queries. If your local tech would look at his factory specs he will find the bolts are torque to yield so simply using the old ones is not a good idea, ESPECIALLY with the control arm ones, they tend to ratchet loose ( fixed one that had been elsewhere, loose due to the ratchet effect) think about how the wishbone sits and how it acts, it naturally wants to ratchet loose. The other bolts are steering rack and ball joints all of which i wouldnt use the okd ones) As mentioned in the new kits ill suppy the bolts with a description of the torque procedure. For the peeps who have made a purchase lately before i decided to do the kit ill give the torque settings.As follows -
    1- Control arms - 70NM + 90degree turn
    2- Steering rack 50NM + 90 degree turn
    3- Ball joints - 20NM plus 90 Degree turn
    Hope this helps
    Back on deck now so if you have any dramas use the PM facility please . Hope the VW tech you are using knows what torque to yield means
    Cheers
    Jmac
    Alba European
    Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
    Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
    For people who value experience call 0423965341

  2. #12
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    Thanks Jmac, hope the hospital thing wasnt anything serious. We all need you!
    MY2008 VW Polo GTi / GIAC Tune / Forge FMIC / Forge 007 DV / N75 Race / BMC OTA / KW V1 Coilovers / Whiteline Front&Rear Swaybars + Toe-In Shim / Weichers Front&Rear Strut Braces / Full Non-Res Milltek Exhaust / 17" Bora Sport

  3. #13
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    hey jimmy, thanks for the reply regarding the torque to yield.

    i use volkspower in melbourne, but i'll write down your torque figures anyway.

    good to hear that you're out of hospital and up and running!

  4. #14
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    Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jmac View Post
    Logic poor mate im afraid. The original bushes are PLASTIC. You punch them out with absolutely no pressure. Ive done COUNTLESS anounts now with very good results and seen them back for MANY services and are as good as they were when fitted. Top mod.
    If in doubt post me your arms and ill press them in for you
    Cheers
    Jmac
    yeah, i thought he got it wrong too. Anyways, installed the bushes today at another workshop, was at hand to confirm the newly fitted bushes are snug anf tight. All is well now

  5. #15
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    Sorry for the delay folks, almost caught up!!! Ill have the cost of the bush kit including bolts and torque settings VERY soon
    Cheers
    Jmac
    Alba European
    Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
    Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
    For people who value experience call 0423965341

  6. #16
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    Hi folks ive had a spare 5 mins to put a price together, i can do the seat uprated bushes, including bolt lit with instructions with my interpretation for $120 all up delivered anywhere in OZ
    Cheers
    JMac
    Alba European
    Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
    Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
    For people who value experience call 0423965341

  7. #17
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    Will these reduce the toe out under hard braking? And would it also mean I could run less static tow out?
    I'd like a bit more stability in this situation.

    Torque to yield still sounds dumb to me but if that's what VW specifies...

  8. #18
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    blankedy
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    These are OEM, it will reduce flex, but static geometry is the same. There are powerflex ones that have an offset mount, can be used to change the geometry.

  9. #19
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    Thanks.

    What I meant was that FWD cars often run a small amount of static toe out so that when the front wheels are driving, they pull the outers of the front suspension arms forward and the resulting moment causes loaded toe becomes neutral or slightly toed in. Under heavy braking, the front wheels push the outers of the front suspension arms backwards so the resulting moment causes the toe out to be increased leading to instability (darting around) and destruction of the insides of the tyres (see the chunking of the OEM tyres from my 1st track day).

    I was hoping that the reduced flex of the Cupra bushes would improve the braking stability as toe out under braking would be reduced by
    1. requiring less static toe out to counteract the tendency to toe in under power
    2. reducing the toe out added by the braking moment


    Is this likely with the Cupra bushes?

  10. #20
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    Oct 2010
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    Anyone?

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