Sams Polo 3.0

[sambb]

Ha ha yeah the stock rears will look like tiny pimples inside open 17's. I appreciate that for sure.
No there's no booster mod that anyone really does on these cars. What Gav and I have done is instal a kit from a german company called n89 motorsport that lets you run a VW Bora master cylinder. The piston is a bigger diameter meaning that a shorter amount of brake pedal throw is needed for the same amount of actual braking at the wheels. It definitely solves the long soft brake pedal feel of the stock car. I just don't particularly like how it works in unison with the stock booster. The shorter pedal to me becomes overly sensitive. It'd benefit from a smaller booster but that'd be a bastard job to do and I don't have the stomach for that. Was thinking of running smaller vac lines to the booster, a restrictor or a vacuum limiter instead just to get more of a wooden pedal........when I get motivated again.

[Water Boy]

Hows it going Sam?

[sambb]

So Polo 3.0 now has engine 2.0 in it.

Driving to work 3 weeks ago, just doing the commuter thing, and the gearbox decided to lunch itself. At he top of a long gentle hill I remember hearing what sounded like a spring releasing. I honestly thought I'd run over a valve spring - that kind of noise. Didn't think much more of it but then 500m further on down the hill when I went to just breathe on the throttle, the gearbox turned into a clattering mess. To be honest I actually though the motor had disembowled itself but when I pulled over and figured out that it was idling and oil pressure was fine, but I had barely any drive, and I had a giant pool of oil under the car on the gearbox side...... that I was going to need a tow regardless.

So lucky for me sitting in a box in the garage I had a completely rebuilt JDB box that had been rebuilt with a KAAZ 1.5 way clutch LSD, a longer ratio brand new pinion and ring gear, a beefed up pinion bearing mount and a braced/welded clutch release fork. I'd not that long ago gotten the ECS steel flywheel and a VW diesel transporter clutch and PP balanced and setup by western clutch. This clutch is 900kg vs 700kg of the VR6/stg1 one I'd previously run. So I knew I was ok on the gearbox side but the big decision was do I just throw the box in with the existing motor or do I go the whole hog and empty the engine bay and re-insert the built motor/box.


removed the old motor/box by dropping the car body over a pallet.

transferred across the existing Golf Mk6 Gti TSI turbo, did some re-wiring as i'll change over the the Golf pieburg N75 which is mounted to the turbo itself, and transferred across the last of/best of my 3 engines coolant system pipes.
flywheel, PP and clutch part numbers
bought a cheap caster wheeled dolly from bunnings, nailed a cut down pallet to it, used tied downs to secure the engine to it. The car was actually on a sloped driveway so to get it out of the garage and up to the car I basically made reins and a bridle up and lashed myself to the trolley. Like a human draught horse I dragged the engine/box up my driveway to the car and sort of swung it into the bay. Not fun in 40 degree australia day heat.

Nice new shiny motor in place. I knew the bigger large port Mk4 Golf GTi inlet mani with its kinked throttle body was going to be a problem. Managed to retain my existing intercooler pipes with just the addition of a couple of mild silicon pipe bends where before there'd been straight joiners.

[sambb]

a few more pics of the large port mani fitup. Had to actually shave a little relief into the back of the headlight assemblys plastic moulding so that the hardpipe would fit vertically down behind it. Needed a 45 degree straight off the throttle body to clear. No way could you run a phenolic spacer with this mani in the polo.

Decided to change from the 12 psi wastegate spring I'd run before back to a more standard 7 psi. Really had to give myself a big upper cut for deciding to this once the engine was in the car and not when it was on the stand because it was not an easy job.

when I was under there doing the wastegate spring I noticed oil curtaining down the back of the block seemingly coming from.......the headgasket!! After reviving myself from a heart attack I noticed a little drip would form on the head across to the right. My hack I learnt from this job..... Daktarin foot spray is my saviour. Its a dry powder that adheres to feet - and engines. You wipe away any oil, spray it in spots you suspect, go for a quick drive, and voila, you can see exactly where its coming from. I've never been so happy to have to remove all the timing gear on a car, but confirming it was coming from the exhaust cam seal (my fault) and not from the head gasket was a good day in my life. New seal in, more foot spray to confirm the new seal wasn't leaking, timing gear back on, back in business.
Decided to ditch running the diverter valve right in front of the throttle body like on the last car. The plumbing running all over the engine bay back to the TIP was a bit of a mess and I manged to find a bargain Golf mk6 gti turbosmart replacement for the electric DV found on the stock cars. I didn't need any of the solenoid defeats that came in the box because our ecu isn't looking for a connected DV. I just removed the blanking plate I'd had on there and fitted the valve. So now with a DV mounted to the housing I only have one small vacuum line running to the turbo and a far cleaner engine bay.
Also wired up the oil temp sensor that I'd gotten a bung welded into my custom baffled sump so I can keep an eye on pan oil temps.

[sambb]

fuel trims trimming aok. Ghetto method oil pressure checks during break-in. Cold start 60psi, Hot pressures = 25psi idle/65 psi revving.
Also compression checked the engine warm (9:1 comp ratio Audi S3 pistons) at 165 psi once I'd dropped the Penrite 15W40 run in oil and gone to normal running Penrite HPR 5 5W40.

What i'm working on now is a better solution for the coolant temps. Car has a 90 degree thermostat. The stock thermo fan switch though which is specc'd at 102/95, actually lets head temps be at around 98 before it turns the low speed fans on. In reality that differential means the high speed won't come on till head temps are maybe even north of 105 degrees which is silly to me.
I found this sensor which I think is off an Alfa GTV 2000's model. high speed is 97-92 and low speed 92-87. I reckon in reality the low speeds will come on with head exit coolant temps of 94-95 or so, which'll work much better. Just in the process of wiring a plug to it so I can adapt it to the stock fan control loom.

Whats left to do is:

- make some ducting to fit around the intercooler leading onto the radiator.
- Fit the oil cooler. I decided to break in the engine sans oil cooler but with the standard heat exchanger fitted. Didn't want long slow oil warm ups and max oil temps of only 85 degrees during break in.
- relocate battery from engine bay to the cabin somewhere so that I can put the stock airbox back in its stock location. The turbosmart DV on the turbo makes some loud cho cho's and I'm an under the radar type who'd prefer the NSW road gestapo to not be looking at my car.


So all in all the engine/box config is:

- baffled sump
- rebuilt bottom end with X beam forged rods, 20mm wrist pins, reco'd Audi BAM S3 piston ceramic coated on crown and skirts,
- brand new complete large port head, supertech stainless exhaust valves, VVT fitted and tuned to run dynamically, large port inlet mani
- solid manual tensioned KR tensioner and IE idler for timing belt.
- golf mk6 gti TFSI IHI RHF5 turbo w 3 inch dump, 2.75 inch post cat, into 2.5 inch under body and over the rear beam.
- 2/1/4 inch boosted/intercooler pipe work with Harding performance/APR intercooler
- ev14 550cc/3 bar injectors, injector spacer/hats fitted for use with the large port mani, APS uprated fuel pump, standard 3 bar fuel pressure reg and 3 inch factory style MAF with all the screens fitted.


Car is in the process of being tuned now. The irony is now that I have a forged bottom end and should just be sending it, I'm actually not wanting the turbo pushing 20psi anymore. It was 14,000km old when I bought it and has probably done 45,000 now so I'm not keen to over speed it and have shrapnel run through my lovely new motor. I'll save sending it for if I ever K04-064 it. being a large port its more than likely it'll make the same grunt on slightly less boost anyway which'd be good if that was the case.
We're at the stage of trying to nail to perfect VVT switch on points in the rev/load range and once thats settled on we'll get timing and boost into it and see where it ends up!!

This was the day I solved the cam pulley seal leak. After dumping the running in oil and doing 300km on a first batch of normal oil, I dumped that too just to have another check of the oil filter contents and be sure the run-in had gone smoothly. On these km's I was finally able to reset the service interval, christening the new motor. She'll get a service every 5000km from now on.

[sambb]

provided the universe doesn't poo on me and nothing goes wrong with this engine/box swap, I should be able to get to Dub Nats this year. Anyone know the date/location !??

[MIG]

Great work; the car is forcing you to upgrade it

Also an awesome trick with the foot spray!

[Rdubya]

People I have many spare parts now that this has been completed.

- 160.000 km 1.8T 20V BJX runner engine (that came out of the car). ancillaries like alternator, turbo and some coolant pipes missing.

- 150,000km 1.8T " ", that came out of the my second Polo. Both motors good to be swapped in after some parts swapped on or for a strip down and refresh. they'll be cheap.

- K& N Apollo airfilter/pod airbox. Allows you to ditch the stock airbox, fit this directly to the stock 2.5 inch Maf and enjoy some echo'y cho cho sounds and induction roar. see pics above.

- whiteline 22mm front anti roll bar with 22mm bushes

many more so get in touch.

Hey Sam, I sent you a message regarding the engines. Check your inbox. Cheers.

[sambb]

above parts are all sold