Sams Polo 3.0

[Trubs]

Hi mate. sorry, just saw your post. If you are just running on the street with occasional track days I wouldn't bother doing the bigger vented rears. They are simply not needed. When I mentioned what I didn't like about them, we are talking driving it on its limit on semi slicks going for every last tenth of lap or hillclimb time. Not issues you are ever going to get even 20% towards on the street. On the street they just simply add weight. The pad is the same size so you are just carrying around venting that isn't necessary, extra disc weight and more caliper weight. Yeah they may clamp slightly further outward on a bigger diameter disc, but you won't feel that as the braking is so heavily biased towards the front anyway. If you are doing supersprints going full send for 8 laps you may notice more lingevity but to me I felt the weight penalty more than any braking advantage. Do the fronts yes, but only do the rears if you have your heart set on it.
A bigger master cylinder definitely gives you a shorter pedal throw. I did that mod to get away from the long sinky pedal you get on the stock master cylinder. To be honest I'm not sold on it though. The stock booster is just so huge that in my opinion the new combination is now overboosted. In nippy street driving its too grabby to heel and toe and even when you are really going for it its made it significantly harder to heel and toe smoothly because you need hardly any leg pressure to brake.
For street and sometime track day stuff I'd say just do the fronts, leave the rest as is (you can get DBA T2 slotted rears) and spend your coin on pads and good fluid. Have a track set of pads (bedded in and ready to go - even just fronts would be ok) that you instal for track days, and standard sort of pad for street duties. If I had my Polo time again that'd have covered 95% of everything I ever needed for street, track day and comp.

Cheers for explaining. What exactly is the brake booster mod?

Will probably end up just doing the fronts but I’m kinda torn between doing the rears, I’ve got a cup edition with the 17” wheels and I feel like it would be aesthetically pleasing having the bigger rear brakes filling up the wheel.
Here in NZ I have only found 1 8L S3 Quattro getting wrecked and the guy wanted over a grand just for set of 4 calipers and carries. So just doing the fronts will end up easier on the wallet.

[Water Boy]

Hows it going Sam?

[sambb]

a few more pics of the large port mani fitup. Had to actually shave a little relief into the back of the headlight assemblys plastic moulding so that the hardpipe would fit vertically down behind it. Needed a 45 degree straight off the throttle body to clear. No way could you run a phenolic spacer with this mani in the polo.

Decided to change from the 12 psi wastegate spring I'd run before back to a more standard 7 psi. Really had to give myself a big upper cut for deciding to this once the engine was in the car and not when it was on the stand because it was not an easy job.

when I was under there doing the wastegate spring I noticed oil curtaining down the back of the block seemingly coming from.......the headgasket!! After reviving myself from a heart attack I noticed a little drip would form on the head across to the right. My hack I learnt from this job..... Daktarin foot spray is my saviour. Its a dry powder that adheres to feet - and engines. You wipe away any oil, spray it in spots you suspect, go for a quick drive, and voila, you can see exactly where its coming from. I've never been so happy to have to remove all the timing gear on a car, but confirming it was coming from the exhaust cam seal (my fault) and not from the head gasket was a good day in my life. New seal in, more foot spray to confirm the new seal wasn't leaking, timing gear back on, back in business.
Decided to ditch running the diverter valve right in front of the throttle body like on the last car. The plumbing running all over the engine bay back to the TIP was a bit of a mess and I manged to find a bargain Golf mk6 gti turbosmart replacement for the electric DV found on the stock cars. I didn't need any of the solenoid defeats that came in the box because our ecu isn't looking for a connected DV. I just removed the blanking plate I'd had on there and fitted the valve. So now with a DV mounted to the housing I only have one small vacuum line running to the turbo and a far cleaner engine bay.
Also wired up the oil temp sensor that I'd gotten a bung welded into my custom baffled sump so I can keep an eye on pan oil temps.

[sambb]

fuel trims trimming aok. Ghetto method oil pressure checks during break-in. Cold start 60psi, Hot pressures = 25psi idle/65 psi revving.
Also compression checked the engine warm (9:1 comp ratio Audi S3 pistons) at 165 psi once I'd dropped the Penrite 15W40 run in oil and gone to normal running Penrite HPR 5 5W40.

What i'm working on now is a better solution for the coolant temps. Car has a 90 degree thermostat. The stock thermo fan switch though which is specc'd at 102/95, actually lets head temps be at around 98 before it turns the low speed fans on. In reality that differential means the high speed won't come on till head temps are maybe even north of 105 degrees which is silly to me.
I found this sensor which I think is off an Alfa GTV 2000's model. high speed is 97-92 and low speed 92-87. I reckon in reality the low speeds will come on with head exit coolant temps of 94-95 or so, which'll work much better. Just in the process of wiring a plug to it so I can adapt it to the stock fan control loom.

Whats left to do is:

- make some ducting to fit around the intercooler leading onto the radiator.
- Fit the oil cooler. I decided to break in the engine sans oil cooler but with the standard heat exchanger fitted. Didn't want long slow oil warm ups and max oil temps of only 85 degrees during break in.
- relocate battery from engine bay to the cabin somewhere so that I can put the stock airbox back in its stock location. The turbosmart DV on the turbo makes some loud cho cho's and I'm an under the radar type who'd prefer the NSW road gestapo to not be looking at my car.


So all in all the engine/box config is:

- baffled sump
- rebuilt bottom end with X beam forged rods, 20mm wrist pins, reco'd Audi BAM S3 piston ceramic coated on crown and skirts,
- brand new complete large port head, supertech stainless exhaust valves, VVT fitted and tuned to run dynamically, large port inlet mani
- solid manual tensioned KR tensioner and IE idler for timing belt.
- golf mk6 gti TFSI IHI RHF5 turbo w 3 inch dump, 2.75 inch post cat, into 2.5 inch under body and over the rear beam.
- 2/1/4 inch boosted/intercooler pipe work with Harding performance/APR intercooler
- ev14 550cc/3 bar injectors, injector spacer/hats fitted for use with the large port mani, APS uprated fuel pump, standard 3 bar fuel pressure reg and 3 inch factory style MAF with all the screens fitted.


Car is in the process of being tuned now. The irony is now that I have a forged bottom end and should just be sending it, I'm actually not wanting the turbo pushing 20psi anymore. It was 14,000km old when I bought it and has probably done 45,000 now so I'm not keen to over speed it and have shrapnel run through my lovely new motor. I'll save sending it for if I ever K04-064 it. being a large port its more than likely it'll make the same grunt on slightly less boost anyway which'd be good if that was the case.
We're at the stage of trying to nail to perfect VVT switch on points in the rev/load range and once thats settled on we'll get timing and boost into it and see where it ends up!!

This was the day I solved the cam pulley seal leak. After dumping the running in oil and doing 300km on a first batch of normal oil, I dumped that too just to have another check of the oil filter contents and be sure the run-in had gone smoothly. On these km's I was finally able to reset the service interval, christening the new motor. She'll get a service every 5000km from now on.

[sambb]

provided the universe doesn't poo on me and nothing goes wrong with this engine/box swap, I should be able to get to Dub Nats this year. Anyone know the date/location !??