Nothing wrong with elring. Used plenty in my time. Wouldn't lose sleep thinking about quality, they've been around ages.
Thanks Gav. It'll be fine. Just wanted to make sure it didnt need any mods before I painted it (tomorrows day job).
So USA prices on ARP's for the head are:
- stud kit (no tool) # 204-4103 = US$206 (Summit) $277 aus
http://arpcatalog.com/i/4/800/0215.jpg
- bolt kit " " # 204-3901 = US$129 (Summit) $173 aus
http://arpcatalog.com/i/4/800/0211.jpg
it does seem that even if I go with the more expensive studs, that it'll come in much cheaper than supertech exhaust valves. My OE head bolts are Elring brand. Maybe if they were dealer OEM I'd feel better about them but not sure if Elring is putting stuff out thats genuine level goodness. They should be but I'm not sure. At least the ARP bolts seem very price reasonable.
Thoughts people - are ARP studs justifiably 100 bucks better than ARP bolts? Both are ARP2000, 40% stronger, with same psi ratings.
Nothing wrong with elring. Used plenty in my time. Wouldn't lose sleep thinking about quality, they've been around ages.
The advantage of studs is that they enable more accurate/consistent torque setting, unlike bolts they don't twist while you are tightening them. Studs are stationary during nut tightening which means a straight line stretch, whilst bolts have a spiral stretch as they rotate while you tighten them. Personal experience, when I go back and re torque studs they are all always equal, whereas occasionally I get 1 or 2 head bolts that are "looser/tighter" than the others.
Does that provide value for money, that's your call.
Cheers
Gary
Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST
Sam are you enjoying the new Polo?
Bluey! - yep. Just not enough track time lately which has been doing my head in, and too much uncertainty over work to commit to spending saved dollars on an engine rebuild until now. So when the tracks open I won't have money for tyres or much else but at least I'll have something happening on the engine front.
How are you guys in Vic fairing? Hopefully you live within 3km of a race track or whatever the hell your travel radius's have been.
tyre test:
The ULTIMATE Track Day Tyre Test! (2021) - Dunlop, MRF, Nankang, Pirelli, Yokohama, Zestino! - YouTube
I'm thinking i'll give AR-1's in 205/45/16 a run on the back of the Polo. This test seems to confirm what other FWD hillclimb/sprint/short session trackday guys have said - that AR-1's give all their available grip right away. These with medium 225 Yoko A050's up front will be the sweet spot on this car I reckon.
Big mistake letting the Dunlop DZ03G's get to 35 psi, that's blister territory. The pressure rise indicates how much more heat they were generating, which = grip. Plus bad for lap times, they would have been noticeably faster at 30 psi, should have re pressured, would have cost a lap in the session but well worth it.
Based on our experience A050 Mediums warm up faster than DZ03G's, which were only half a lap behind the AR1's, I believe A050 Softs would be just as ready to go as AR1's, then streets better thereafter.
Cheers
Gary
Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST
yeah 35 psi made me wince with the Dunlops. Good way to kill a pricey tyre! I cant justify yoko softs for the rear just based on a dollar per km, but I can definitley justify AR-1's. I'll still stay with Yoko mediums all round for the track (just a bit narrower 205's at the rear) but pretty keen to at least test out the AR-1 quick to grip theory for hillclimbs. If they turn out to be no better than yoko mediums on the rear at hillclimbs or say a tarmac rally sprint, then i'll just stick them on the front of the car when its in daily duties and use them up.
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