Sam's build thread

[sambb]

Ah bugger about the softs. The federals should still go well though. Ha yeah I know what you mean re the spectators. I 've found the hillclimb scene to be really close nit and social though. Usually the crowds are connected to the drivers in some way and genuine enthusiasts, not peanut gallery types.
Theres a club in Noosa that does tarmac rallysprints too isn't there?

[sambb]

[Sydneykid]

Needs more neg camber on the rear

Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

Yeah I know. I was looking at that pic feeling happy about the front angles and how the softer front bar didnt turn out to be a grand mistake and then I saw the rears and thought jeez - they look properly positive cambered! That was only run 1 too so I wasn't even really pushing. It'd have only gotten worse which might explain its inclination to slide at the rear. Rears are at static 1.75 degrees so 2 degrees minimum would be the go yeah? A bit loathe to go over 2 degrees though as I still have to get some form of mileage form the road tyres.
Is it normal that the inside front would go as super negative as that appears?

I also need to look at rear ride height. It was sublime for the Esses, but probably should have been dropped for Mt Straight. Trouble is its as low as it can go really. It has a pair of collars on the rear adjusters and yes like we've discussed I can remove the bottom ones there BUT the problem is at full droop the helper springs will extend past the main threaded spigot and the main springs could dislodge. Virtually impossible with the car on the ground yes, but still possible which worries me. Not sure if I need to look at slightly longer main springs and run sans helper or what. I'll have to take some measurements and see. I cant limit the droop enough on the threaded base section of the rear damper body enough to keep the main springs trapped either.

[simon k]

if you're out of adjustment with your eibach plates, I can post you my lathe mount for the alloy plate and you can machine whatever camber you want in to them. I really need to get on to mine and give it some more rear toe

It has a pair of collars on the rear adjusters and yes like we've discussed I can remove the bottom ones there BUT the problem is at full droop the helper springs will extend past the main threaded spigot and the main springs could dislodge. Virtually impossible with the car on the ground yes, but still possible which worries me. Not sure if I need to look at slightly longer main springs and run sans helper or what. I'll have to take some measurements and see. I cant limit the droop enough on the threaded base section of the rear damper body enough to keep the main springs trapped either.

I have seatbelts limiting my rear droop - between the one of the top damper mount bolts to the bolt that goes through the bottom.

[metalhead]

I have seatbelts limiting my rear droop - between the one of the top damper mount bolts to the bolt that goes through the bottom.

Got any pictures? I have a situation where I need to limit droop travel in the rear myself - I had relocated my upper mounts, but just bought new shocks that when they arrived I discovered are longer, and I've no room to relocate the mounts further.

[sambb]

Do you run the limiters Simon because your rears weren't captive at full droop or because you wanted to promote inside rear wheel lift?

[simon k]

They're only there to keep the springs captured, they're a little too long now that I've cut the springs shorter - the springs can't fall out, but they do hang a little loose

not much to it - I've no idea what the belts came out of, my mate scrounged them from somewhere, but they all work the same. They were a retractable lap/sash, the retractor is mounted to the floor, then the belt goes up the door to a fixed point with a hoop thing (B) it passes through, then you have the tongue and it goes back to the floor to a fixed point (A)



So I put the old floor mount (A) under the top damper mount, then cut the belt to the length I wanted and sewed it on to the hoop thing (B). The bottom damper mount bolt goes through that. I happen to have a heap of handy little stepped sleeves that I've saved from minis I've wrecked over the years, so I use one of those at the bottom

bottom mount (sideways) - stepped sleeve is visible, it goes through the belt mount (B) and hard up against the damper mount bracket


top mount (A) (upside down - what is going on with these pictures?)


edit: I only used seatbelts because I've seen it done before and it didn't cost me any money, but you could do the same thing with a bit of wire rope and some screw clamps, or anything that doesn't stretch... just a little imagination needed

[sambb]

Neat little system there. Not noisy either. If I did have to do something like that I've got lots of those child restraint anchors laying around that I could use under the bolts.

[Sydneykid]

Sam, Murray can easily change the droop limiters in your shocks. You just need to tell him by how much.
Simon, I can do the same to your Bilsteins. Cost around $120 for the pair, includes oil replacement and nitrogen regas.

Cheers
Gary