I could point you in the direction of a handy reference like this, but it's nice to get it from the source
http://www.boltmasters.com.au/webfil...ly_Torques.pdf
thanks Simon. Its funny how you trust the validity of theory until its your own gearbox and then you start to go 'wait, that better be right that the bolt torque alone will hold it all together!'. The Kaaz instructions that came with the diff only mention torque specs for Honda and Mitsu Evo applications. I'll have to contact them re torque specs for the VW fitments cos obviously now I'll have to be 100 percent correct or I'll always be driving the thing going 'whats that noise', 'whats that vibration' and head ****ing myself that it wasn't done right.
There's two other things playing on my mind. Firstly the fact that if I do go to an 02J 114mm crown wheel and pinion, that I can change final drive. Secondly that I believe that if you fit a 5th gear from a TDi box you can get a proper overdrive gear for the freeway rather than pulling too high revs at 110kph.
Apparently the JDB box I'm building has the same ratios 1st,2nd, 3rd,4th inc reverse as the earlier HWY box I'm running now. So I could go to a punchier final drive but extend 5th so I can still get down a freeway to get to the events. Not sure if that will make 1st un-useably short though as its a split second gear already, but then again with the better diff I may be actually able to lay into it with that gear off the line rather than short shifting out of it. And if I do move away from a k03s to a K03 hybrid (inevitable), a snappier final drive could help driveability and keep me out of lag holes. thinking muchly..
Last edited by sambb; 18-11-2018 at 07:03 PM.
I could point you in the direction of a handy reference like this, but it's nice to get it from the source
http://www.boltmasters.com.au/webfil...ly_Torques.pdf
more on diffs. I found this article (with links to other articles) about welded front diffs: Welded Differential In A Front Wheel Drive Track Car: Fast And Fun - Race & Track Driving (formerly Win HPDE)
Its pretty interesting actually. It got me thinking about what the lock up % actually are in the plate LSD compared to 100%/welded - is there actually any measure for that? The rallyanarchy links also almost exactly describe the short comings of the quaife atb's (virtually same as wavetrac) which I'd felt so I'm glad it wasn't all in my head.
Sam, do you reckon Pete would run more events if there were some others in the class? Alex Froedl with the Clio was talking to me yesterday about running the state hillclimb championship next year in Road Reg Under 2500cc.
Ripped one side of the spoiler off my car yesterday at a tar khanacross at Ringwood. Last event for the year, so soon I'll have to pull it apart and fix some things.
Last edited by metalhead; 18-11-2018 at 10:54 AM.
Andrew did you run with the Yoko's yet? Dam I really was hoping to get back up there before the hillclimb season shut down. Huntley is usually the last club hillclimb of the year so I'll see if they have another one. I wouldn't mind running back up that hill again to get a gauge on to what extent it was my FARB (now that I've softened the front off) or just the diff being maxxed out that caused the flighty handling there at that last state round.
Unforunately Pete seems pretty bent on doing the Supersprints based around Eastern Ck and Sydney. He's gone soft with all the state hillclimb travel already. The killer was the lotuses, Matt in the Skoda and particularly Graham Orr in the CRX dropping out all at once which left the <2.5L class empty. Unless Froedel is really developing his Clio (Pete had his measure) I don't think youll see us anywhere other than Bathurst, Ringwood, Huntley, and Canberra for the State rounds next year. I'll do South circuit at the DubNats next year, Wakefield and I'd like to do Ludenham too, so if I plan any of those I'll be in touch for sure.
Reckon you'd come down for a rallysprint? There's one in two days time but I wont be ready - cars good but I haven't entered, don't have a co-driver organised and dont have a leave pass.
Do it weld her up! ha ha While welded diffs might work on flowing tracks I get the feeling that getting the mini to turn on a dime at motorkhanas would be very difficult. No power steering would be the biggest problem yeah. I sent you an email re my diff.
tarmac motorkhanas may be difficult, I think dirt would be exceptionally good fun
there's this though, not sure what sort of drive he has, but it works well...
All taken care of mini on top, Barina in the middle, a tiny bit of Escort at the bottom and on to a mini 2.2 turn steering rack, it's dynamite. The engine is run by a megasqirt (tho just running the coils, not injected since I took the blower off), a long time ago I made an electronic speedo drive - so steering is speed sensitive
Jesus I think I'd puke if I was a passenger in that thing. What a little weapon. Whats the go, did that have a spool did it? When it first turn in it did look like the inside front is rotating at a different speed but its not very clear. If so then yes, I vote Yes, weld your mini's diff.
Nice. My mate Pete in his Clio RS is changing from engine driven hydraulic to electro-hydraulic by fitting a holden Astra power steering pump. Its a common conversion because the controls for the pump are on the pump itself (like our ABS) you just need to power it up. I think it monitors fluid flow to vary assistance. Should be a good thing to watch take shape.
Last edited by sambb; 18-11-2018 at 08:48 PM.
Overthinking it again Sam, M12 bolt in a 13 mm hole is very common, as Simon posted achieving the recommended clamping force is the go. Centering should be achieved via the step in the diff centre that the crown wheel fits into.
The reason the rivets are used is commonly to allow for clearance to the oil scraper the fits/sits under the output shaft. You might want to check that there is enough clearance for the bolt heads.
Cheers
Gary
Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST
Bookmarks