Sam's build thread

[metalhead]

Only downside with adapting it to your stock rails is that it will take longer to swap it in and out, unless you have a spare set of rails - you'll need to pull out your stock seat, take the rails off it, bolt them to your bucket seat, and then bolt it in. Whereas obviously it will be much quicker to swap the seats if you can remove the stock seat complete and bolt the bucket seat in complete without swapping rails between them.

[sambb]

yep just got disappointed this afternoon. I thought I could use the seat rails off a spare passenger seat I have but they are not common. I had a bloody spare drivers seat but chucked it with the wreck because the seat release was broken. Stupid. So I either need to find a wrecking car and get rails out of it or just make up my own and hope the cops don't throw the book at me.

[Sydneykid]

Ok I got the follow up. Apparently the FIA has changed a regulation that now says a harness can only be used as it is sold ie cant be 'modified' after the fact. Dont know if its due to that rule change or not, but RPM wont be selling that crotch strap anymore especially since it was dated as a 2010. He said that they did have some crotch straps at other stores but due to those dates on them they wouldn't be sold. Oh well that makes it easy - 6 point it is.

The 2018 wording in the FIA regs is the same as it has always been. Maybe what the effect is going forward is that the FIA is not allowing seat belt manufacturers to attach a 4 strap (FIA 8854-1998 ) certification label to a belt with a buckle that has more than 4 attachment points. But that can't be retrospective, if a belt already has the certification then it's good until that certification runs out ie; for non International events that's 5 years past the "Not Valid After" date (always 31st December). So if the belt is manufactured in 2010 but has a "Not Valid After" date of 2015 then it can be used until 31st December 2020.

I understand that the 4 point certification is overdue for updating (the 6 point is more recent due to meeting HANS requirements) but there is some debate over what that would achieve (ie; the technology is mature).

I've learnt to not overly trust retailers when it comes to interpreting regulations, they rely on their suppliers advice and that can be influenced by price, stock holding etc.

Cheers
Gary

[metalhead]

I have the 4 point harnesses with the extra space in the buckle to supposedly allow upgrading to 6 point, but Revolution Racegear in Newcastle told me when I bought them that they can't get the extra straps any more.

[sambb]

Andrew call Revolution Racegear in Auburn. The guy Ross there was pretty thorough. He said there was another store that had two crotch straps. He might be able to tell you which store has one and then you can argue the case Gary made that they are still technically valid. I'd say move on it now though as they are obviously baulking at selling them. Just say the 4 pointer was sold to you under the pretense that it could be converted to a 6'er and you are now collecting on that.

[sambb]

So I just finally received my studs, conical nuts (for the track rims) and ball seat nuts (for the OE rims).

Need advice - what seating torque do you put on the studs so that they stay put when you are rattling the nuts off? Do you use Loctite thread locker and if so medium or strong?

Its going to be a joy for the broken discs in my back to be able to just hang the spacers and rims on them and the only things i'll need to swap over will be the nuts for the race rims. Carrying around 3 different length/type wheel bolts for the different spacers/rims I use will hopefully be a distant memory once I get these set up.

[Sydneykid]

We use ARP screw in studs and their recommended torque setting is 75 ft lbs. On a hub I'd be using a high temperature resistant Loctite, say 272. Higher locking strength than you need, but temp is more important.


Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

Thats 100Nm which is the spec torque setting for the wheel bolts - makes sense. Not sure if that's safely achievable with the small 5mm in-hex in the nose though. I'll see what I can get them up to before the allen key fitting turns into a noodle. Hmm 272, i'll have a look. I have 243 and 262 super stud lock which don't have rec temps on the bottle. Otherwise I'll see whats lurking around at work.

[sambb]

hmm. Just got this info from the supplier:

Torque them into your hubs to hand tight or 25ftlbs with blue loctite. Then torque the nuts to OEM. I believe it is 105ft/lbs


Let me know if you have any questions.
Cheers,

[simon k]

drool - how much?

it's like a head stud - the nut pulling on the thread is what keeps it screwed into the hub, and the torque on the nut against the wheel keeps that done up, you only need them screwed in hard enough to keep them from coming out when you undo the nuts. Do them up too tight and you're stressing the unthreaded bit between the ridge and the bottom thread... BUT the torque spec for a 14mm grade 10.9 bolt is 180Nm, so it doesn't matter what you do, you won't break it, but you might pull the threads out of the hub